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Old 10-20-2006, 06:48 PM   #16141
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If I was to use the new short wishbones (53928) would it be better to change the blocks as to regain track width? If so what blocks would work on the MRE , Thank you to anybody who can advise.
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Old 10-20-2006, 07:19 PM   #16142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean T Guy
If I was to use the new short wishbones (53928) would it be better to change the blocks as to regain track width? If so what blocks would work on the MRE , Thank you to anybody who can advise.
you would want to use the larger blocks in a combination to restore your toe in or out,,,for example,,,,,,,with the long suspension you could use an A block and a B block to achieve 1 degree of toe,,,with the short arms you could us a d and and e to maintain track width,,,,,,,you may have to switch to 42mm driveshafts
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Old 10-20-2006, 08:10 PM   #16143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXTC
What is the beneifit of the centre post mentioned?

Also when I put the kit together last night as per the instructions the screws that hold the steering assembly together (hold the bearings etc in place) will not pass under the front bulkheads They hit the bulkheads and thus no steering. I have had to raise the front bulkheads 1mm with a shim or two just to get enough clearance for the steering assembly to work.

Anyone have a simlar problem or a solution?
Make sure you are using the counter-sunk screws, and that the flanged bearings are completely flush on both sides of the graphite steering plate. Don't raise the bulkheads, it changes the suspension geometry and everything else.
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Old 10-20-2006, 08:32 PM   #16144
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Thanks mate, I actually worked out the shims that I had on the flanged bearing assembly was wrong.
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Old 10-20-2006, 10:04 PM   #16145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbaron
I'm not familar with spool diff. as in what effect it has on steering. I can't get another RE rear diff pully to run a diff in the front but I want to run this car. The local track runs 19t rubber tire on carpet. I'm not sure what to expect if i run a spool in the front.

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Old 10-20-2006, 10:41 PM   #16146
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If your going to be running carpet, get the front diff.

Tamiya item #53921

TRF415 Front Alum Diff Joints
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Old 10-20-2006, 11:04 PM   #16147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tek Nickal
If your going to be running carpet, get the front diff.

Tamiya item #53921

TRF415 Front Alum Diff Joints
I plan on getting the front diff but I'm waiting on the pulley. I already have the 53921 but I need 53935 pully as the pulley for the spool won't work.
I'm looking for some insight as what to expect with the spool as I will be forced to run with this until Tamiya can get the 53935 to me.

Thanks
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Old 10-20-2006, 11:34 PM   #16148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbaron
I plan on getting the front diff but I'm waiting on the pulley. I already have the 53921 but I need 53935 pully as the pulley for the spool won't work.
I'm looking for some insight as what to expect with the spool as I will be forced to run with this until Tamiya can get the 53935 to me.

Thanks
A spool will make the car push. You'll have to set the front suspension up to be softer and exhibit more roll. This will help you get into the corners better. Play with the caster to achieve the right amount of on or off-power steering. Also, increase your front camber by 1 degree. This should put you in the ball park and then you can fine tune it for the track conditions.
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Old 10-20-2006, 11:50 PM   #16149
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I'm not familiar with the MRE, if it did come with one-way center pulley you should consider getting this

TRF415 Direct Center Pulley

Quote:
Actually you don't need all that. Here is the link:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=119997

The shaft is on the short side, but it can be used. Works fine.
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Old 10-21-2006, 06:07 AM   #16150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbaron
I plan on getting the front diff but I'm waiting on the pulley. I already have the 53921 but I need 53935 pully as the pulley for the spool won't work.
I'm looking for some insight as what to expect with the spool as I will be forced to run with this until Tamiya can get the 53935 to me.

Thanks
If you're running carpet rubber ...I think most (including me) people use a front oneway ..diff for foams.
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Old 10-21-2006, 11:21 AM   #16151
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Does anyone use a battery strap or does everyone just tape in your batteries?

If you do use a battery strap who is it made by?

Thanks,
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Old 10-21-2006, 11:33 AM   #16152
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I use tape, either the normal tape (no colour) or the stuff with a backing on it (coloured tape, but more expensive). Seems to be less chance of getting tweak if you hit a board as the cells can very slightly move instead of being clamped down and not able to move.

Charles
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Old 10-21-2006, 12:12 PM   #16153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles Godwin
I use tape, either the normal tape (no colour) or the stuff with a backing on it (coloured tape, but more expensive). Seems to be less chance of getting tweak if you hit a board as the cells can very slightly move instead of being clamped down and not able to move.

Charles
Me as well, I use strapping tape. Just as Charles said any type of strapping tape would work fine (branded or not branded). For your first time of using it & putting it on, it may take a couple of times to get use to it. But once you get a hang of it, it only takes under a minute to install.

I only use one strip for 3 heats everytime I race in a day. One tip when using tape for your batteries, make sure you have enough length of tape to cover the batt pack from one side to the other.
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Old 10-21-2006, 12:35 PM   #16154
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Post Bearing Set Replacement - Ceramic or Regular Bearing Set

Quick question in regards when replacing the bearings. Is it really worth getting ceramic bearing set or just the regular set? Or am I better off just putting ceramic bearings (total of 8 pcs) for the wheel hubs F/R?

What's my best option/s?
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Old 10-21-2006, 02:38 PM   #16155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRASH
Does anyone use a battery strap or does everyone just tape in your batteries?

If you do use a battery strap who is it made by?

Thanks,
I switched from the 3M brand of tape, the colorless one, to the one backed with an extra layer (mine is black color) and it lasts so much longer, and the batteries don't move at all.
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