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Old 10-17-2006, 01:44 PM   #16081
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
You place it perpendicular ( 90 degree ) to wheels. If you see upper or lower gap between the wheel and camber gauge, then.... it means you need to correct the camber at the upper link. It has four measurements if I'm not mistaken : 0 degree, 0.5 degree, 1 deg, 2 deg.
Make that 0.5, 1.0, 1.5, and 2.0
But yeah, it's a camber gauge
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Old 10-17-2006, 02:40 PM   #16082
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Originally Posted by TryHard
Make that 0.5, 1.0, 1.5, and 2.0
But yeah, it's a camber gauge
at what degree should I see no gap? I have the upper arms exactly the same length. However, I still see the camber angles not the same.
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Old 10-17-2006, 02:47 PM   #16083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halayli
at what degree should I see no gap? I have the upper arms exactly the same length. However, I still see the camber angles not the same.
The camber angle is given by the number that is closest to the wheel. The arrow must face down and you should make sure the face where the arrow is pointing to is flat on the ground (the number for the degree of camber should be the proper way round for you to read). Then with that same number next to the wheel, make sure both top and bottom part of the tyre/setup wheel are flush with the gauge, then you have the correct amount of camber for that wheel. Repeat for each wheel and there you go you're set.
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Old 10-17-2006, 03:02 PM   #16084
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRF415boy
The camber angle is given by the number that is closest to the wheel. The arrow must face down and you should make sure the face where the arrow is pointing to is flat on the ground (the number for the degree of camber should be the proper way round for you to read). Then with that same number next to the wheel, make sure both top and bottom part of the tyre/setup wheel are flush with the gauge, then you have the correct amount of camber for that wheel. Repeat for each wheel and there you go you're set.
I did what you said, however non of the angles flushed completely with the gauge. the closest was at angle 2.0. But still there was a gap (the smallest gap between all the angles in the gauge). However I need to note again the upper arms are exactly the same length but the angles are different. Isn't that strange?
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Old 10-17-2006, 03:18 PM   #16085
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Not really... There are many things that contribute to the camber links needing to being different. Warped wheels being the biggest culprite, along with slop in the axle bearings.
Also, the other main problem is a difference between the position of the top bulkheads when mounted, as this can affect this too, this is due there being no side to side keying on the parts.
Don't forget to measure the camber with all your race equipment in the car (batts, motor, electronics etc) as this will also affect the camber setting.

Best thing is to setup it up, regarldess of the length of the links. It is more important to have equal camber side to side.
Obviously, if theres a big difference (say over 2mm) then something else is wrong with your car build.

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Old 10-17-2006, 04:20 PM   #16086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
Not really... There are many things that contribute to the camber links needing to being different. Warped wheels being the biggest culprite, along with slop in the axle bearings.
Also, the other main problem is a difference between the position of the top bulkheads when mounted, as this can affect this too, this is due there being no side to side keying on the parts.
Don't forget to measure the camber with all your race equipment in the car (batts, motor, electronics etc) as this will also affect the camber setting.

Best thing is to setup it up, regarldess of the length of the links. It is more important to have equal camber side to side.
Obviously, if theres a big difference (say over 2mm) then something else is wrong with your car build.

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Ed
so the camber gauge I have can set the wheel camber angle to 0.5, 1, 1.5 or 2 degrees?
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Old 10-17-2006, 05:44 PM   #16087
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i got a 415 and i need parts. front steering knuckels and the ball screws that hold them in on the top and the inserts that hold them in on the bottom. i also need a front bumper and the body inserts. i,m really new to this. i hit alot of pipes. any help would be great.
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Old 10-17-2006, 08:20 PM   #16088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyManson
i got a 415 and i need parts. front steering knuckels and the ball screws that hold them in on the top and the inserts that hold them in on the bottom. i also need a front bumper and the body inserts. i,m really new to this. i hit alot of pipes. any help would be great.
www.speedtechrc.com will be your best choice for Tamiya parts in the US.
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Old 10-17-2006, 08:36 PM   #16089
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What do you have to do to be able to use the HPI PRO4 hub carriers and spindles?

The link on TryHard's site is not working.

Thanks,
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Old 10-17-2006, 09:35 PM   #16090
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Exclamation TITANIUM TURNBUCKLES

Where can I purchase a pair of Tamiya or any brand of 42mm Titanium turnbuckles for my MRE? I'm currently going to use the alum ones that came with the kit but just in case I need a replacement when they break/bend when I race.

Thanks for the replies.
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Old 10-18-2006, 02:25 AM   #16091
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRASH
What do you have to do to be able to use the HPI PRO4 hub carriers and spindles?

The link on TryHard's site is not working.

Thanks,
haha, yeah sorry about that... still haven't got round to writing it up properly. One day...maybe.

Effectively, you need the HPI hubs, 4x 10x5mm (1050) bearings, and (this is what I prefer) the HPI/HB non-MIP style axles, they are a direct fit onto the tamiya dogbone.
Put it all together, with a 0.7mm shim on top of the hub (between that and the C-Hub) to take up the play and bingo, job done.

HiH
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Old 10-18-2006, 04:38 AM   #16092
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Thanks, can you also use the HPI C-Hubs?

Thanks again,
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Old 10-18-2006, 05:51 AM   #16093
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Not sure.... I would have thought so, although you'll probably have to drill out the hinge pin hole, as they are slightly smaller (iirc) on the HPI hubs. Also, watch the dogbone for hitting the c-hub. I doubt it will be a problem (the HPI and Tam parts seem to be fairly interchangeable), just somethign to be wary of.

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Old 10-18-2006, 10:09 AM   #16094
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Lol
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Tamiya TRF415-415boxtop.gif  
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Old 10-18-2006, 11:31 AM   #16095
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Arrow HMMMMM

Quote:
Originally Posted by rtypec
Lol
Hi Rod,

Don't quite get the reason for that pic? Unless there's a hidden message with your post!? If you know what I'm thinking...(TRF415 for NEW user; TRF41# for ADVANCED users)

Later.

***but I could be wrong as well what I'm thinking of ***
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