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Old 10-04-2006, 11:28 AM   #15916
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Originally Posted by Charles Godwin
Nope, you can get the 4mm chassis through speedtech rc (if it's in stock).

I had a problem with ball cups popping off a few weeks ago , i race in a extremely tight indoor carpet surface (with no grip) so contact is going to happen. All i did was replace the plastic ball cup and i haven't had a problem since.

What shells are you guys running on carpet with rubber tyres? The track i'm going to go to over the winter is kinda big with a decent level of grip, some fast and some tight corners. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Charles
Been using the DNA1 on my Evo5 for carpet on rubbers, find it really stable with a good amount of steering. I know its a ment as a foam tyre body... but Mr Lemiuex used it to TQ Mod rubber at the iic, and so far my findings are all good
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Old 10-04-2006, 11:38 AM   #15917
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Originally Posted by Josh Numan
I belive that the Cups and sleeve will work no problem, the pin should be the same lenth.
Josh
Thanks Josh, tried it and worked fine. and i also noticed that the steel pin although looked similar with normal 2x10mm pin for the wheels, it's actually shorter... spent few mins digging my toolbox for the correct pin
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Old 10-04-2006, 12:51 PM   #15918
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Cheers guys, looks like the mazda 6 then, doubt i'll use the DNA1 as if it's made for foam then it should stay for that class

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Old 10-04-2006, 01:33 PM   #15919
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Originally Posted by E.J. Evans
Hey Mario, the standard steering knuckles don't accomodate the width of foam rims (they won't fit unless you really cut down the rim). You can try using the HPI steering knuckles, but you'll also have to use either their axle or the old style tamiya axle. It's pretty simple once you get the parts.
Thanks.Josh(I think)recommended the cyclone parts.I guess either will do the job.Should be the same parts too.Thanks for the option idea tho.I usually use 26mm foams at the home track which I think are the same width as rubber.Hoping they'll work O.K. for now.Have the HPI/cyclone parts coming too,just in case.Mario.
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Old 10-04-2006, 06:02 PM   #15920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles Godwin
What shells are you guys running on carpet with rubber tyres? The track i'm going to go to over the winter is kinda big with a decent level of grip, some fast and some tight corners. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Charles
Im swapping between Protoform Mazda 6 and the Parma Type M, both are similar shells handling wise but the Type M is less twitchy exiting the corners. I tested this running the shell on the same chassis, same setup, same indoor carpet track trying one straight after the other so the test was pretty fair. The 6 looks the better body, but personally the whole "wedge of cheese" shape (Type M, DNA etc, ) is really starting to grow on me!
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Old 10-04-2006, 06:15 PM   #15921
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Anybody break the stearing links on the MRE yet?,,,,,,,,,does Tamiya make a titainium turn buckle in 62mm?
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Old 10-04-2006, 06:21 PM   #15922
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Originally Posted by LBSR415
Anybody break the stearing links on the MRE yet?,,,,,,,,,does Tamiya make a titainium turn buckle in 62mm?
Yes ive broke two sets. I dont know if Tamiya make titanium ones but Trick Bits do, and you can get them in anodized blue as well. Thats what i replaced mine with after the second time!
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Old 10-04-2006, 07:44 PM   #15923
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While this may have been covered before, could anyone using the Checkpoint 19t Money Motor give advice on gearing? I know it likes being geared really high, but I am trying to find out what spur and pinion are a good starting point, and good ending point.

I also wanted to ask how people who switched from the MSX to MRE have liked it. Was it a noticable improvement?
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Old 10-04-2006, 07:50 PM   #15924
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Originally Posted by CarKing
While this may have been covered before, could anyone using the Checkpoint 19t Money Motor give advice on gearing? I know it likes being geared really high, but I am trying to find out what spur and pinion are a good starting point, and good ending point.
Using a 102 spur, any pinion that gets you from 5.4 to 5.8, depending on track layout. I would start at 5.8 and work from there - Good Luck.
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Old 10-04-2006, 07:50 PM   #15925
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Depends on your surface. Im on carpet thats quite tight and im running 100T spur, 30-33T pinion iirc!
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Old 10-04-2006, 07:54 PM   #15926
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Running on asphalt at the Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo.
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Old 10-04-2006, 08:16 PM   #15927
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I pop them off somewhat frequently, I use pliars and hold the ball cup. I am using the low friction ball cups all around (grey ones). Its just coming off at the steering link. Using the Tamiya gold ball ends (steel) on both knuckles, so ball end wear isn't an issue. I will try that CA, or the heating. Heating it using a soldering iron, or heat gun?
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Old 10-04-2006, 08:25 PM   #15928
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any word if tamiya america is going to make a 4mm chassis for the MRE?
i'm having trouble deciding what to get for carpet foam season... msx with 4mm chassis or MRE... not an easy choice
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Old 10-04-2006, 09:19 PM   #15929
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAY_UK
Yes ive broke two sets. I dont know if Tamiya make titanium ones but Trick Bits do, and you can get them in anodized blue as well. Thats what i replaced mine with after the second time!

I have a thing for answering my own questions,,,,tamiya part #2520040 is the 42mmx3mm turnbuckle,,tamiya usa is out if ya find some in the uk pm me and we'll work something out.
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Old 10-04-2006, 09:42 PM   #15930
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Originally Posted by LBSR415
I have a thing for answering my own questions,,,,tamiya part #2520040 is the 42mmx3mm turnbuckle,,tamiya usa is out if ya find some in the uk pm me and we'll work something out.
3Racing makes this also. Not anodised but works. I use them on the EVO5.
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