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Old 09-04-2006, 09:30 AM   #15556
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Originally Posted by TryHard
Try this one.
http://www.thard.co.uk/setups/TORC/05/TORC2.jpg
Bear in mind though, Ashby is a pretty bumpy track. You could probably get away with going stiffer on the shocks, if as you say, your track is smooth. But that will be a good starting point.

HiH
Hey, on your site the shock matrix (what a kewl thing BTW!!!), are the Tamiya shocks that come with say the MRE kit considered the Tamiya Short or Tamiya Long springs?
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Old 09-04-2006, 09:43 AM   #15557
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those woould be the long springs, Harsh....

the shorts are prolly 3/8 inch shorter in length, work well on the Mini!
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Old 09-04-2006, 10:57 AM   #15558
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Originally Posted by Mafodda
Thank you Tryhard, yes I'm running, since four months, only with black belts, but I don't finish a race with the same belt of start, yesterday on six run I changed two belts and in the last final I stopped the car after half race ... I tried all kind of tension, loose, medium, hard, but the belt broken always.
What kind of condition is your rear layshaft pulley in? On occasion the wear of the rear layshft pulley will create a wear pattern that will sharpen the teeth of the pulley. Regardless of the tension of the belt, the teeth edges may cause the belt to fray and cut.

Worth checking.
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Old 09-04-2006, 11:44 AM   #15559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDawson
What kind of condition is your rear layshaft pulley in? On occasion the wear of the rear layshft pulley will create a wear pattern that will sharpen the teeth of the pulley. Regardless of the tension of the belt, the teeth edges may cause the belt to fray and cut.

Worth checking.
Mark, That is exatly what I was thinking
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Old 09-04-2006, 01:11 PM   #15560
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The Yokomo MR4TC series had the same problem until they went to hardened layshft pullies.

Hopefully Tamiya releases 415 pullies with TA05 composite material style layshaft modular pullies or some sort of hardened layshaft pulley.

Until then, just keep an eye for pulley wear.
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Old 09-04-2006, 01:46 PM   #15561
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Bondo who make the pully out of a soft alu material cause it cheap and they wear out...grr it gonna be a long wait for a hardened pully...I think though it the pitch ot the belt which is 3 mm should be 4 mm with larger pulleys would cope with the power.
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Old 09-04-2006, 05:03 PM   #15562
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ok i have a 415 msx and i need a new diff i think or just the balls and the pully any 1 in so cal have 1 pm if you can help me out
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Old 09-04-2006, 06:12 PM   #15563
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ok i have a 415 msx and i need a new diff i think or just the balls and the pully any 1 in so cal have 1 pm if you can help me out
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Old 09-05-2006, 08:00 AM   #15564
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Default Evo5 steering

Hi guys, I have some questions regarding the EVO5 steering on the mre.

Do I tighten the 2 screws (3X8mm) fully on the steering plate?...Tightening down the 2 screws hinders the movement of the plate...Isn't it suppose to move freely?
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Old 09-05-2006, 08:06 AM   #15565
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noticed that too, i used a little thread lock and didnt tighten it all the way down. So there is no slop, and no binding.

Also i checked the chassis plates against each other, and couldnt see a reason why i cant use the 4mm chassis with the MRE (except extra holes) I did notice that the steering is very close to the chassis, but if you put both spacers which go on the steering shafts, under the steering arms, i wonder if that would be enought to clear? I might run the steering shaft in upside down, and space it out. Im sure theres an easy solution
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Old 09-05-2006, 08:25 AM   #15566
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel
Hi guys, I have some questions regarding the EVO5 steering on the mre.

Do I tighten the 2 screws (3X8mm) fully on the steering plate?...Tightening down the 2 screws hinders the movement of the plate...Isn't it suppose to move freely?
Did you miss any of the ittee bitteee thiner than a human hair spacers? I noticed that to when I first built it then realized I missed aome of the spacers (don't remeber which set), put them in and viola smoother than a newborn baby's butt!! ...make sure you have all these on:


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Old 09-05-2006, 08:30 AM   #15567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axle182
noticed that too, i used a little thread lock and didnt tighten it all the way down. So there is no slop, and no binding.
Axle182: Thanks for the tip. Do you also put threadlock on the setscrew and the ball connector on the steering plate too? I found they come loose very easily.
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Old 09-05-2006, 08:36 AM   #15568
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarshGuy
Did you miss any of the ittee bitteee thiner than a human hair spacers? I noticed that to when I first built it then realized I missed aome of the spacers (don't remeber which set), put them in and viola smoother than a newborn baby's butt!! ...make sure you have all these on:
Harsh: Yup. I got the spacers on. But thanks for the reminder...I need to recheck if i got those right spacers there. Too many different spacers and I may have just used the wrong ones.
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Old 09-05-2006, 08:45 AM   #15569
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Yup, got those spacers in. Just found when i wreched on it, it binds a little, so used a little thread lock on the screws and didnt wrench down on them. I also put both spacers on the right of your pic, under the steering. Im aiming to get the 4mm plate to fit, so i wanted to see what kind of gap there is under the steering assembly. well, theres not enough! lol I need at least 1.5mm between the std plate and the linkage. So i think flipping the steering posts and respacing, it should work.
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Old 09-05-2006, 09:14 AM   #15570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel
Harsh: Yup. I got the spacers on. But thanks for the reminder...I need to recheck if i got those right spacers there. Too many different spacers and I may have just used the wrong ones.
How are you checking it's freeness? Have you disconected all the ball joints etc?
I've found that if the kingpins are slightly misalinged that can bind up the steering abit. Also the ball cups add friction.
With all the correct spacers, the steering should be free with none of the links connected. If it's still binding, try a 0.1mm extra between the brace and bellcranks.

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