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Old 08-24-2006, 07:08 AM   #15256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jakster
and yes get a 2mm hudy its the tightest tolerance i have used. when every wrench slips, go hudy!
Amen to that... after scoffing at the price of the hudy tools, I used every other brand with more headaches that you can imagine. I had to cut all but 3 screws from the bottom of my original 415 chassis (previous owner used loctite!) and since buying all Hudy, my wrench still looks brand new and its been used ALOT. Also good advice is to use the Ti screws when screwing into the alloy. has worked a treat for me
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Old 08-24-2006, 07:48 AM   #15257
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Just use a 5/64" allen to get the stripped screw out. I have also found that the cold forged ti screws are prone to stripping as the Ti alloy is softer than the machine cut ti screws Ti racing sells. If I am gonna build this kit with Ti screws I would get the one form Ti racing even though they are more expensive or use the standard steel screws.
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Old 08-24-2006, 07:51 AM   #15258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boultspeed
Yep , thats me
Your diff could do with ceramic balls and a rebuild. Indoors running the DJ rear end is pointless as there is no bumps I would run it at dv with kit setup but with a spool and red rear springs. Or use the old 415 supension on blues which make the car work on carpet and indoor surfaces.
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Old 08-24-2006, 02:20 PM   #15259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smoking motor..
Your diff could do with ceramic balls and a rebuild. Indoors running the DJ rear end is pointless as there is no bumps I would run it at dv with kit setup but with a spool and red rear springs. Or use the old 415 supension on blues which make the car work on carpet and indoor surfaces.

my diff has got ceramic balls, and I've tried the standard rear end at DV but prefer the DJ .I've had the steping out problem outdoors as well so it aint the rear end .
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Old 08-24-2006, 02:54 PM   #15260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boultspeed
my diff has got ceramic balls, and I've tried the standard rear end at DV but prefer the DJ .I've had the steping out problem outdoors as well so it aint the rear end .
Can you post your current setup. Should be able to suggest something to help.

Ed
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Old 08-24-2006, 03:09 PM   #15261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boultspeed
my diff has got ceramic balls, and I've tried the standard rear end at DV but prefer the DJ .I've had the steping out problem outdoors as well so it aint the rear end .

Is that with old shagged tyres or new tyres ? I'd first try to put a set of tyres in decent condition. Also if they've been using the sand pit it's normal don't expect to have any grip.

If it doesn't work try that setup and use tamiya blue springs instead of hpi silver.
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Old 08-24-2006, 03:26 PM   #15262
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Default Need a Good starting set up for outdoor

Hi Guy's
Great thread here, I need a good basic set up for my TRF415MS. I am going to be racing outdoor on ashphalt.
Running in 27 turn rebuildable stock.
The track is medium in length.
I know this is a bit sketchy but I just need a ratio and set up starting place to build on. I am new to here and love the thread.

Also can anyone tell me a history of the change between the standard 415 through to the TRF 415 MRE and the change in each model.

I own 7 TRF cars

2 TRF 415 MS (1 stock and one heaps of add ons)
2 TRF 414 M WCR (numbers 688 and 1537 of 1700)
1 TRF 414 MII
1 TRF 415
1 TRF 415 MSX

Check out my picture. The MSX was at the shop.
Best wishes
Addam
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Last edited by TRFMAD; 08-24-2006 at 03:50 PM.
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Old 08-24-2006, 03:51 PM   #15263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRFMAD
Hi Guy's
Great thread here, I need a good basic set up for my TRF415MS. I am going to be racing outdoor on ashphalt.
Running in 27 turn rebuildable stock.
The track is medium in length.
I know this is a bit sketchy but I just need a ratio and set up starting place to build on. I am new to here and love the thread.

Also can anyone tell me a history of the change between the standard 415 through to the TRF 415 MRC and the change in each model.

I own 7 TRF cars

2 TRF 415 MS (1 stock and one heaps of add ons)
2 TRF 414 M WCR (numbers 688 and 1537 of 1700)
1 TRF 414 MII
1 TRF 415
1 TRF 415 MSX

Check out my picture. The MSX was at the shop.
Best wishes
Addam
I would think that with 7 cars, you should have at least one with a good set-up. Nice pics of the heard also.
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Old 08-24-2006, 04:13 PM   #15264
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Default Gearing help

Hi guys, Im new to this 415 game having come over from Schumacher, and Ive swapped out the 64dp spur that was on the car for 48dp (72) can you guys give me some help as this seems a little small to me, and I was wondering what you guys were using on the spur side of things?

Impressed with the car as it comes apart with sooo much ease.

cheers for your help in advance
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Old 08-24-2006, 04:51 PM   #15265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRF415boy
Is that with old shagged tyres or new tyres ? I'd first try to put a set of tyres in decent condition. Also if they've been using the sand pit it's normal don't expect to have any grip.

If it doesn't work try that setup and use tamiya blue springs instead of hpi silver.
Personally, I would change the rear camber link positions.... use 2 on the bulkhead, and B on the hub...
(I do remember the reason why you had it like that Fab, not ment as a dig)

Deffiently agree on the new tyre thing, thats the first thing to try.

HiH
Ed
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Old 08-24-2006, 05:40 PM   #15266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TacticalTimbo
HotrodHopkins, I'm afraid I understand yours even less! Not having or ever having used a dremel probably dosen't help. but you say cut the blade inhalf to 4mm does this mean you start with a 8mm? can't you just buy 4mm's. Also if you cut it wont it not be round, is that what the grinding stone is for? Also because of the countersink screw head won't you cut the chassis?

sori to bagger you like this but i am devastated as i've only just bourght it!
yeah, the standard size is larger than 8mm. Cut it down half way. Then take the grinding stone and shape it down to a 4 mm radius circle, that way you won't cut your chassis.
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Old 08-24-2006, 06:20 PM   #15267
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yo guys... i have something to ask about my original 415.. where did u guys put the belt tension adjustment?? the manual says lock it in the middle slots.. but it seems a loose.. but the drive train is much free when its in the middle slot.. the i adjust the front +2 slots and -2 slots at the rear.. it tightens a bit and the acceleration is not good.. it locks the drive train.. do you think that it have to follow the manual (put it in the middle)...
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Old 08-24-2006, 07:07 PM   #15268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikkiesteban
yo guys... i have something to ask about my original 415.. where did u guys put the belt tension adjustment?? the manual says lock it in the middle slots.. but it seems a loose.. but the drive train is much free when its in the middle slot.. the i adjust the front +2 slots and -2 slots at the rear.. it tightens a bit and the acceleration is not good.. it locks the drive train.. do you think that it have to follow the manual (put it in the middle)...
With both the original 415 and 415MSX I own, I always made it one slot either side, keeps it tight enough to not slip, and loose enough not to bind.

You don't want the belt to be too taut.
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Old 08-24-2006, 10:53 PM   #15269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
3 deg front toe out.... hmm, D/XB (you'll nedd to flip the XB), sounds like a lot of arm sweep though, you sure thats right?

Rear toe 1 deg, options D/B, C/A, B/X A/XA, X/XB, XA/XC, or XB/XD..... pick your track width (widest to narrowest)

And roll bars, its the TA05 set your want. Evo5 has a different rear bar.
Yup! Thanks for all the info.!
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Old 08-25-2006, 12:36 AM   #15270
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It was in the sand pit end of DV, and yes they aren't new tyres .I'll try some new ones next time.

Ed set up is as kit but with DJ rear end on 20 oil and fluro red spring and 45 front oil, do you think 60 oil would be better ?

Paul.
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