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Old 08-13-2006, 07:30 AM   #15106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Juan Aveytia
What kind of diff balls came with the car? Shouldn't get all beat up after 1 race day. So, how'ed the anti-dive help? What else do you want the car to do? Talk to ya later or just post here.
I didn't like the anti-dive, made it harder to come out of t he corner as in had to "steer out" of the corner to much. I made some other changes to the roll block thingees, sway bar, shock oil ...I'll call you later on today.

I think just steel ones? ...it's not beat up, just got grit and dirt in it i.e. when I took it apart, cleaned everything up, relubed and put back together it was money again; I got to suspect that is what it wrong with it again. ....are they the same size balls as the Corally's? I have ceramic diff balls for the Corally I could use those.
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Old 08-13-2006, 07:54 AM   #15107
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I think just steel ones? ...it's not beat up, just got grit and dirt in it i.e. when I took it apart, cleaned everything up, relubed and put back together it was money again; I got to suspect that is what it wrong with it again. ....are they the same size balls as the Corally's? I have ceramic diff balls for the Corally I could use those.[/QUOTE]


Tamiya use's 3mm diff balls. Can't remember what size corrally is.
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Old 08-13-2006, 09:37 AM   #15108
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Corally uses 3.5, so no go there...

i have had good success replacing the thrust bearing with one i found on ebay. looks like the Xray/Corally one, only smaller to fit the Tamiya diff. came from HK or somewhere like that. if i remember right, they were ceramic, and seem to last lots longer than the std Tamiya one. here is a link:

ceramic thrust bearings

looks like the same place has the 3mm as well.

im planning on making my first run on the MRE this next weekend, rubber tire on carpet.. ill let ya know how that goes.

p.s. the new alloy front diff fit perfectly with a TA05 pulley in the front... now i need to get the Alternated pulley for that as well, so i match!

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Old 08-13-2006, 09:41 AM   #15109
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I just finished my MRE and painting my body.... But now I'm wondering if the spurgear, included in the kit, is a 64dp spur or is it different?? Looks like it's a bit smaller.
Sorry if this is a newbie question. It's my second Tamiya kit after years
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Old 08-13-2006, 01:31 PM   #15110
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How did it go then Ed at aldershot, any differences between the std MSX and the MRE

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Old 08-13-2006, 01:43 PM   #15111
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one difference really... LOADS more steering!
Actually ended taking a bit out, as I simply couldn't live with that level of steering. Admitasly it wasn't helped by the bucket loads of rain we had today... still in the third round (when it was at it's wettest) I was on course for a B final time.... Pit Wets work awesome where there is lots of water

I pretty much left the car as stock, but I am really happy with it so far... although DON'T build the shocks as kit setup, get some three hole pistons for over here, the two holes just do not like bumps, and made the car really really nervous.
Apart from that, the only real change I made was to move the steering links to the rear hole on the steering knuckle, helped calm the steering down.

Did notice that the car does feel freer to, seemed to be gearing higher than the other MSX's around, even thoose with the ta05 pulley mods... thought a little odd, still pretty rapid

Just need to find a way to a) make my reciver more waterproof, and b) same for my tranny.... opps, got them both sitting under a heater at the moment :S

Time to give a post meeting strip down, need to check all the bearings given it's been damp all day.

Ed
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Old 08-13-2006, 01:51 PM   #15112
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Default 415 msx mre

do you think the new msx mre would still be worth it for stock racing with the new pulleys and higher gear ratio or should i just stick with the msx. im also a big carpet foam tire racer and only have the 4mm chassis for the old steering system. i mean is the new car worth buying for stock just for the new pulleys and steering? thanx for the help.
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Old 08-13-2006, 01:52 PM   #15113
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One of them days then , just out of interest what blocks did you end up on and also did you use the short arms?

To waterproof puet electrics in ballons and and seal any holes with grease, blue tak etc or take the easy route. Pack up and go home

Cheers, Charles
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Old 08-13-2006, 02:23 PM   #15114
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Is the Internal Ratio for the MRE the same as the standard MSX?
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Old 08-13-2006, 02:50 PM   #15115
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Ratio for the MSX MRE is 2.25 and standard MSX is 2.187
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Old 08-13-2006, 03:01 PM   #15116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean T Guy
Ratio for the MSX MRE is 2.25 and standard MSX is 2.187
Thanks Sean
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Old 08-13-2006, 03:05 PM   #15117
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No Probs , You can convert the MSX to 2.25 by just buying the new pulleys.
To be honest I dont really notice any difference between them. The new pulleys have only half the teethe which I guess is supposed to make the car free'er hence being more efficient.
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Old 08-13-2006, 05:10 PM   #15118
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How are people dealing with the bottom screw/flange tube on the front end of the LW suspension? I have had issues, due to the tight track I race on and the number of knocks you get, that the uprights get slopping and then drop the screw and flange tube out, or rattle the upright enough to loosen those two items.

What I have done is get a friend to tap a metal thread into an used upright that has become sloppy, then shaved the height of the upright (where the screws go into) a little bit. Then moved the flange tube to inside the c-hub, like on the Cyclones, with a 0.1 spacer, the type you use on the wheel axle. Then put in a smaller screw (8mm) in the bottom of the hub with a 0.5mm spacer, with a dob of superglue on the thread. After giving the car a run on the weekend, the steering seems more free and no screws fell out.
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Old 08-13-2006, 05:23 PM   #15119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burlap
How are people dealing with the bottom screw/flange tube on the front end of the LW suspension? I have had issues, due to the tight track I race on and the number of knocks you get, that the uprights get slopping and then drop the screw and flange tube out, or rattle the upright enough to loosen those two items.

What I have done is get a friend to tap a metal thread into an used upright that has become sloppy, then shaved the height of the upright (where the screws go into) a little bit. Then moved the flange tube to inside the c-hub, like on the Cyclones, with a 0.1 spacer, the type you use on the wheel axle. Then put in a smaller screw (8mm) in the bottom of the hub with a 0.5mm spacer, with a dob of superglue on the thread. After giving the car a run on the weekend, the steering seems more free and no screws fell out.

Simple answer : Square alloy front hubs...
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Old 08-13-2006, 05:26 PM   #15120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles Godwin
One of them days then , just out of interest what blocks did you end up on and also did you use the short arms?

To waterproof puet electrics in ballons and and seal any holes with grease, blue tak etc or take the easy route. Pack up and go home

Cheers, Charles
Well... It was all waterproofed, it's just I got caught in a really heavy shower, and I have a feeling a good amount of drips ended up in my handset.... just didn't work right after that... fingers crossed it'll be fine now it's dried. If not, anyone got a KO vantage they want to swap for an MSX

Blocks wise,
Front; B/A (0.5 out)
Rear; XB/C (2.5 in)
Kept the Std arms too, had enough of a problem dialing out the steering on sat, so didn't get a chance to try them.

laters
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