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Old 01-26-2002, 11:33 AM   #1
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Default Soldering Help

Hey, I am having a heck of a time hard wiring and un-hard wiring my batterys each time i change batterys in my TC3. Do you all have any tips on soldering them, i dew have a weller gun, a stick solder gun also. Please help.
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Old 01-26-2002, 12:44 PM   #2
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Default Re: Soldering Help

Quote:
Originally posted by RubbyT
Hey, I am having a heck of a time hard wiring and un-hard wiring my batterys each time i change batterys in my TC3. Do you all have any tips on soldering them, i dew have a weller gun, a stick solder gun also. Please help.
Hardwiring the batteries seems to me a big overkill. Better you install a pair of good connectors, like the Trinity R-Minus or Duratrax connectors (those who are the same as the old Sermos connectors).

If you still hardwiring your battery, you should have a good solder iron or better a soldering station, like the Hakko, Weller or Ungar soldering stations. Normal soldering irons when work at outdoors don't work so well due to the lack of enough power to maintain at proper temp the iron. Better to stick with a soldering station or installing battery connectors..
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[quote=MugenDrew;2684554]BATTERIES are for FLASH LIGHTS, gasoline is for cleanin parts, alcohol is for me to drink and well NITRO...everybody know thats for racing.[/quote] :D:D:D
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Old 01-26-2002, 02:02 PM   #3
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If you can't solder well hardwiring actually is a worse connection that properly done plugs.

Pat (Electrical Engineer)
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Old 01-26-2002, 02:27 PM   #4
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why dont you just try corally style zero loss connectors
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Old 01-26-2002, 04:26 PM   #5
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This might help:

http://www.balakracing.com/soldering.htm

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Old 01-26-2002, 06:29 PM   #6
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Bryan,
any tips on how to stuff 12awg wires into a male corally plug? I need to shave off a few strands of wire and I think that ain't helping the point of having 12awg wire.... I have no problems with 14awg wire. Thanks.
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Old 01-27-2002, 05:09 AM   #7
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This is how I would do it:

Remove the ammount of insulation you need at the end of the wire and use the ends of your fingers to twist the wires tightly together. If this will fit inside the plug, then slide it in the hole, and then heat the side of the plug while applying solder to the wires.

If the wire won't fit inside the plug, tin the end of the wire you want to use, and then use a file to grind the circumference down a little. When it fits, repeat the process above.

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Old 01-27-2002, 04:14 PM   #8
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Default solder help

Hope I can help. I am in the military and hold a NASA level certification for soldering (6 week intensive courcse and annual recert.)
1st get a good Iron, dont use a "gun" with R/C electronics especially batteries a cheapo 40 watt iron can help you ruin you components as you take longer to get the solder to melt. Yes weller, hako and ungar make good irons. By the way the best is PACE we use the PRC 2000 but it cost about 3 grand! It can do anything you want incuding surface mount and repair of the inside of PC boards down through several layers although this is over kill for us. Try to get an iron that is at least capable of 800 deg. you will need this for your batteries. You only need to be on the battery for a couple seconds and dont risk over heating those expensive SANYO HV.
2nd use 63/47 solder it has a special property (called eutectic) in that it goes straight from a liquid to a solid at a very low (361 deg.) melt temp. and has no plastic point this means that you have a lesser chance of getting a fractured solder joint that can/will break durring a bad crash etc.
3rd Flux is your friend! DO NOT USE ACID CORE it will destroy electronics. the best is RMA liquid type flux (rosin mildly activated)
4th and most important is to clean all conections thouroughly contaminates or oils etc will cause the solder not to flow. resulting in excess heating to try and make it flow and damageing you components. use an ink erasor (the pink pencil one have oils in them) then use alcohol to clean the rest but dont let it dry blott it with tissue.
If you follow these steps you should be soldering like a pro in no time.
check out http://www.crane.navy.mil/2m/2mpage.htm
feel free to email me for any more? @ [email protected]
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Old 01-27-2002, 04:20 PM   #9
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Default connectors

Quote:
Hardwiring the batteries seems to me a big overkill. Better you install a pair of good connectors, like the Trinity R-Minus or Duratrax connectors (those who are the same as the old Sermos connectors).
Yes they are better I think as well. quick easy and no worry of no power at the track. I personally use deans. In my opinion unless you are a national calaiber driver you wont notice any resitance differance in you car. (actually unless you solder really well you may notice a loss of performance) deans will even make the connector for you now with wires attached so all you need to do now is to solder it for each wire. And now this can be done in a controlled environment with good tools and techniques!
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Old 01-27-2002, 04:34 PM   #10
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How in the world do you go about getting NASA level certification for soldering? That sounds cool!
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Old 01-27-2002, 04:46 PM   #11
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I work in the Air Force in a section called circuit card repair. The AF adopted this program called micro/micro miniature "2M" from the Navy as they are on the ships and need to be 100% self sufficent. We use it to save the AF money. We have "throw away" or non repairable parts that cost thousands. We have devised these standards as what we do is probably the biggest stress electronics can take ie rockets, cruise missles, and mach 2 9+ G fighter jets. ike I said we can even go throught the layers of PCB to the inner layers to repair the minute circuit runs. If you eally wanted this type of training either join the miliraty (probably not what you want) or "PACE" the soldering company has coureses you can do. although I have no idea of the cost etc. but the basics are the same just some of the techniques differ as we do a lot of our work under microscopes and our criteria for quality is very strict.

Last edited by Buda; 01-27-2002 at 04:49 PM.
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Old 01-27-2002, 06:50 PM   #12
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Would you please be a gentlman and slip out some tips on soldering.

I wouldn't miss a word.
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Old 01-28-2002, 09:52 AM   #13
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I could but wouldnt know where to start right now. I am really busy at the moment but in a few weeks I can maybe get something together, like an article and post it?
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Old 02-21-2002, 04:34 PM   #14
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The best way to explain how to solder is...........HEAT the wire apply solder to wire. I use rosin core. Let the wire melt the solder. once you have the wire with solder. put the wire next to the connection and HEAT the connection. by doing this you will Heat the wire with solder through the connection. that will draw the solder from the wire and to the connection.
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Old 02-22-2002, 09:24 PM   #15
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I too had trouble my first time soldering, but the more and more I soldered wires I got a lot better. One tip is to try and use a vise clamp as much as possible. They help you out with not burning your hand. Especially with male Deans connectors, with them being so small. Another tip is to make sure you have a 1/8" tip on your soldering iron. You should first test your abilities on motor wires and things like that. It is easy once you get better.
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