Tamiya FF cars forum
#5
The ff02 didnt come with inserts! Damn...zxt, post your messages here about the ff.
What i installed in my ff:
Kyosho slicks
Hard foam inserts
oil-filled shocks
swaybars
adjustable upper arm set
ball bearings
toe in rear uprights
stainless susp. shaft
alum king pins
it rides on rails!!!
What i installed in my ff:
Kyosho slicks
Hard foam inserts
oil-filled shocks
swaybars
adjustable upper arm set
ball bearings
toe in rear uprights
stainless susp. shaft
alum king pins
it rides on rails!!!
#6
wandering question
I just wanna know why my FF-01 wanders (left and right)...seems like when I pull the throttle the car just wont drive straight...like sometimes it drive to the left...then if I steer to the right it will drive to the right ....i change my servo but still ding the same thing...my tires is in good condition and my wheel are almost bnew...tho I dont have inserts at the rear....
any ideas?
Thanks
any ideas?
Thanks
#7
Tech Champion
iTrader: (108)
I've owned my TAO2FF for 5 years and raced it at several TCS races also running it at weekly events. The car is extremely fun to drive and NO RWD isn't better. RWD is actually a hand full to drive compared to FWD. On a flowing track a FWD actually has an advantage over 4WD and RWD. The FWD allows u to carry more corner speed. The key is setup. The diff and springs and oil are crutial. I've seen improper setups push like a hog or spin every corner. The only necessary hopups are-Bearings, Ball diff,Universals and tuned springs, and maybe adjustable upper links. The rest of it is just eye candy. The same carries over to the FWD mini (I also own a MO1). Swaybars in my opinion are not needed in a front wheel drive car. With some practice and work I was able to win a TCS race against many long term Mini guys that couldn't figure out how I was beating them with a FWD. All I got to say is SETUP.SETUP.SETUP! Now go kick some RWD A$$!
And as far as the wandering thing goes, that usually comes from an improper diff setting, or excess play in the suspension. Tamiya makes a kit to replace all those stepped screws with a bronze sleeve and screw. This actually removes a lot of slop. And the diff needs to be set so that it just barely slips for about a foot on takeoff. Some people think this is too loose, but It will stop the car from searching for traction back and forth and provide more straight launches. You may need to service your diff every couple weeks, but whats a couple bucks a month for diff rings!
And as far as the wandering thing goes, that usually comes from an improper diff setting, or excess play in the suspension. Tamiya makes a kit to replace all those stepped screws with a bronze sleeve and screw. This actually removes a lot of slop. And the diff needs to be set so that it just barely slips for about a foot on takeoff. Some people think this is too loose, but It will stop the car from searching for traction back and forth and provide more straight launches. You may need to service your diff every couple weeks, but whats a couple bucks a month for diff rings!
Last edited by CIVIC91; 10-15-2001 at 07:36 PM.
#8
Thanks
for the answer...
actually...I think my servo is the problem...but I'm not sure...it wont go back to straight line if I turn left...it continous to turn left but only alittle...now when I turn right and release..it goes back to straigth line...I'll change the servo today and hope it will fix the problem...
actually...I think my servo is the problem...but I'm not sure...it wont go back to straight line if I turn left...it continous to turn left but only alittle...now when I turn right and release..it goes back to straigth line...I'll change the servo today and hope it will fix the problem...
#10
ZXT: the ta02ff and ta02 had a prob with steering slop, but it could also be tourqe steer? Just try to correct it with your steering or buy some RPM or tamiya ball cups (use new ones coz old ones could come loose).
No1 tip for tamiyas: buy a protoform body or the same sort. You need the extra downforce...would prevent spin-outs.
Hey new discovery, tl01 could do doughnuts with stock tires on high grip surfaces...my friend and i tried the tl01 in school and we were surprized that it could do doughnuts. on fast sweeping turns, the rear end would spring around and if you don't try to counter-steer it, it'd spin out and do doughnuts if you hold on the throttle
No1 tip for tamiyas: buy a protoform body or the same sort. You need the extra downforce...would prevent spin-outs.
Hey new discovery, tl01 could do doughnuts with stock tires on high grip surfaces...my friend and i tried the tl01 in school and we were surprized that it could do doughnuts. on fast sweeping turns, the rear end would spring around and if you don't try to counter-steer it, it'd spin out and do doughnuts if you hold on the throttle
#12
it doesn't cahnge the width of the car but changes the geometry of the suspension, the original suspension has really wide hub carriers and short arms, the long suspension has long arms but short hub carriers
#13
New updates to my FF02.
Set up:
Front
1deg. toe out
Tamiya blue springs (tuned hard spring set)
#800 oil
Shocks, 1 hole piston (neo Alum shocks)
Mount: Outer hole
Rear
2 deg. toe in
Tamiya yellow springs (tuned spring set)
#700 oil
shocks, 2 hole piston (neo plastic transparent shocks
Mount: Outer hole
Ride height 6mm
Hop ups
Long suspension set
turnbuckle steering
M03 heat sink
Reedy Mr.T motor
IPC sport esc
Servo saver
Alum hex hubs
Ball bearings
Set up:
Front
1deg. toe out
Tamiya blue springs (tuned hard spring set)
#800 oil
Shocks, 1 hole piston (neo Alum shocks)
Mount: Outer hole
Rear
2 deg. toe in
Tamiya yellow springs (tuned spring set)
#700 oil
shocks, 2 hole piston (neo plastic transparent shocks
Mount: Outer hole
Ride height 6mm
Hop ups
Long suspension set
turnbuckle steering
M03 heat sink
Reedy Mr.T motor
IPC sport esc
Servo saver
Alum hex hubs
Ball bearings