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Old 01-12-2009, 08:40 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by DIALED 1 View Post
TYRES ARE THE MOST IMPORTANT ASPECT IN THE CARS HANDLING
THEY ARE WHATS TOUCHING THE GROUND!
EVEN IF YOU CHANGE THE INNNER PIN TO THE LOWER SETTING U WILL TRACTION ROLL IF YOUR TYRES ARE TOO BIG...
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Old 01-12-2009, 08:51 AM   #17
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Just trying to get my opinion across to the bloke, he must be kinda confused
with all these different answers.
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Old 01-12-2009, 09:03 AM   #18
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Just trying to get my opinion across to the bloke, he must be kinda confused
with all these different answers.
Posting in all caps is like yelling. And truing tires down to "rubber bands" isn't really an option. Post #4 he said he is running JACO Blue prism's....those are rubber tires, not foam.

mtbboy...do you have a setup posted somewhere that everyone can look at?
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Old 01-12-2009, 09:14 AM   #19
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oooops didnt read that bit!
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Old 01-12-2009, 11:45 AM   #20
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How about moving to shorter camber links front and rear?
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Old 01-12-2009, 12:31 PM   #21
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Leave the damn thing alone. It was about perfect last week.
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Old 01-12-2009, 12:49 PM   #22
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try a harder compound tyre and practice using different amounts of paragon.
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Old 01-12-2009, 03:07 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by mtbboy View Post
Rc tech rules!
Who won the novak?
10.5 rubber and 13.5 rubber anyhow?

Dave.
Paul LeMieux in 10.5 rubber
Josh Stough in 13.5 rubber
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Old 01-12-2009, 03:57 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by mtbboy View Post
Hey guys.

I am running on what has become a high traction tight carpet track.
I am traction rolling hard in the middle of the high speed sweeper.
Very entertaining to watch at 45 kph I,m sure.
Would putting on a stiffer roll bar and lowering my inner link location help? Or is there another cure I,m just overlooking?

Come on guys, throw me a bone here.

The barrel roll king, Dave.
1. Shorten Link-The car will be a little more reactive, but this removes traction from the front end.

2.Raise Link-you want less camber gain. The RC change is very secondary. For that matter, you can take some camber out too.

3. Raise the hingepins. This will take away some traction and reduce the rolling in the car--Is it rolling over the nose and flipping, or just snapping over like the car is on a hinge?? If it's a snap you are too stiff and also have too much traction.

4. Stiffer bar will only help if you are too soft in the first place. If you go too hard it could actually be worse. Worth a try though.

5. Also, as mentioned, try differing dope on the front tire, and use glue on the sidewall. Gluing the sidewall may be the easiest and best solution if your car is working pretty good beside the barrel rolls.
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Old 01-12-2009, 05:49 PM   #25
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didnt know u were on foams, ca is ur friend.

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Old 01-13-2009, 06:32 AM   #26
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Make sure your chassis is flowing and can comforably bottom out often we make these cars too stiff and instead of absorbing energy and sliding on the chassis just a bit they flip and roll. In other words sometimes a softer spring/shock package can help with mid corner flips.

Second to the ca on the edge of the front tire easy and very effective way to reduce front bite and rollover issues
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Old 01-13-2009, 09:17 AM   #27
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I've also heard of this too. I too have been having problems with traction rolling on certain tracks. I also notice that softening up the rear when the track is loose reduces grip. So I stiffened up the car and gained more traction. Is this right?
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Old 01-13-2009, 11:05 AM   #28
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If your using rubber tyres, try coating the outer sidewalls of the tyres in superglue (crazyglue or whatever you Yanks call it )
This stops the sidewall from deforming so much and if the roll goes a bit too far the smoothness of the glue helps stop it gripping too hard.
This would be my first port of call as you've mentuioned it's only happening in one place on the track.
Also, no need to compromise the setup for the rest of the track.

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Old 01-13-2009, 02:19 PM   #29
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I've also heard of this too. I too have been having problems with traction rolling on certain tracks. I also notice that softening up the rear when the track is loose reduces grip. So I stiffened up the car and gained more traction. Is this right?


That is true.... If you plot the traction (y-axis) vs spring hardness (x-axis), you'll get an inverted U. Meaning you'll increase grip when you increase spring hardness till a point it drops off.
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Old 01-17-2009, 07:47 AM   #30
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Wow...
Sorry guys I didnt realize this thread had taken off.

Some good info and some I cant use.

The ca on the sidewall I thought was reserved for the guys using foam but it definately makes sense to me that it would work for rubber as well.

Pretty sure I was just over saucing the fronts.

The "U" of traction I like that analogy.

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