RMP750

iTrader: (1)

Well I am trying to get back into racing stock touring. Ive been away for 5 years or so and I am really confused as to what ecs and motor package I should be looking to purchase. My plan is to race stock touring with a little bit of SS touring. Can some of you guys chime in with what you have and why you like it. Other gear that will be used is a m8 or a react have not decided yet, also ecs package will go into a hpi pro4 until I can find a Cyclone tc. Any help would be great.

Foxxrocket

I use a Novak SS 17.5 brushless motor with GTB ESC. I got this setup, because the other guys at the track use it. The GTB ESC has a really nice one-touch programmable setup. I especially like the LiPo Cut-off, as I use a SMC 5000mAh hard case LiPo battery in my car. The thermel shut off is also a nice little extra. I've never had to use it, but it's nice to have.

Trips

iTrader: (16)

First question... do you have all the gear from 5 years ago? If you don't have the charger, discharger, motor lathe, etc. I'd definitely recommend going with a brushless motor and LiPO battery.

I'm partial to the Tekin RS speed control, very compact and light, and with the Hotwire PC interface all the adjustability you could want. I've had good luck with Trinity Duo brushless motors and Tekin Redline motors.

LiPO, I think the leader at the moment is SMC, Danny sells some great stuff. For a LiPO charger, I'd recommend any decent balancing charger. I run the Thunderpower 610, which will need a DC power supply. If you want a charger that can run off AC or DC, Hyperion makes some good balancing chargers.

CarbonJoe

And get some small spurs. On an Xray T2 (which comes with a 116 tooth spur), I'm using a 96 tooth spur with a 17.5 brushless motor. The rollouts are nearly 2x the rollouts for a 27turn brushed motor, so you need small spurs and relatively large pinions.

cherokee

iTrader: (1)

First I would ask about the classes where you race. For me Stock Rubber is a brushed 27T rubber tire class, the 17.5 cars run in a different class.

Where I run we have that class for people just like you and myself, people with older stuff that still wants to get out and have fun with out spending a ton of money. It is a very fun class and no one gets to excited about anything. Great fun.

So I would find out if a 17.5 car is in the "stock" class or not....I am still running my 10yr old motors and speedos car and such, I just bought new batts. But I am looking into the brushless side of things and new cars as well.

Foxxrocket

I know what you mean. When I was running a 27t motor I was running a 72 spur and 26 pinion. Now with 17.5 I'm running 80 spur 50 pinion.

bigkoitat

iTrader: (6)

RPM750 six month's ago I was in the same boat I was kinda on the fence with BL and lipo's. But have to say it's worth every penny, low maintenance and user friendly. No more cutting comm's, changing brushes, and most of all CYCLING NIMH When I got back into it I only bought 1 Lipo and bought the Losi Excelorin system and still using both after 7month's.
When using lipo's just get the balance right on the car, my 3400 is almost half the weight of my 6-cell packs. BL motors have a ton of torque on them too is why the different gearing needed to run properly. And almost no motor braking. I have the Excelorin like I said, the Speed Passion, and the Novak GTB. They all work well, but the SP and The Losi can be fine tuned trackside without a laptop. For instance a low to no traction asphalt track if you have the punch st for a more grippier track your having a bad day of drifting if not looping the thing out of every corner. So you just simply change the throttle punch to low, and it will smooth things out quite a bit

RMP750

iTrader: (1)

I do have all the gear, chargers, lathes,motors,even cars. Ii have recently purchased two triton chargers so I could charge my heli batterys. Is there a problem in charging lipos at a lower rate? My tritons will not charge 7.4 lipos at more than 3.0amps. Will that be ok with the high rated lipos?

flatspunout

iTrader: (38)

For someone just getting back in, with very little knowledge of brushless/lipo, I say get what everyone else is running...any of the major manufacturer's competition esc/motor combo's are competitive in stock, they all cost about the same, and it will be way easier to choose a proper FDR when there are other people at the track with experience running that particular setup. Welcome back

-rocky b

Ben.C

Its best to charge Li-Pos @ 1C. Meaning if your Li-po cell is a 3200Mah, just charge it @ 3.2 Amps. etc....

Since li-po just require you to top up everyrun, if you run a 5 min stock race, it shouldn't drain too much. It should be fully charged up quickly.

revo523

iTrader: (8)

Dude go brushless and lipo and make your life a lot easier specially since you been out off the hobby and you will have time to focus on other things like driving.

bigkoitat

iTrader: (6)

Amen to that, and set-up

TwoTone

iTrader: (12)

Not sure how the novaks compare to the other brushless in your class but the Havok combo is a nice way to get into Bruhless at $150 for motor/esc.

I wish they were out when I started again. Some of the combos aren't out yet but should be this month.

cherokee

iTrader: (1)

There is no problem charging them at a lower rate....it just takes longer. At first I used my heli charger and I could only charge at a max of 3amps as well, just don't go over, a 5000 should not be charged over 5amps, 4000 not over 4amps and so on.

The best upgrade IMHO is lipo over brushless....expecially if you are just getting back in. You already have everything that you need to run brushed motors. Do that get your feet wet and have fun.

RMP750

iTrader: (1)

So between runs you can just put a lipo back on at the full charge rate? then take it off even if its not fully charged and run the next heat?