How do you plug this ps into a wall socket?
#107
Get a computer power cord, 3 prong and flexible... Cut the end off that goes into the computer. Get some ring trrminals from RS and connect green to ground, white to neutral and black to hot... Best to cover the black and white with some insulating silicon and wrap with tape.... I've been shocked with 110 before, it'll knock you on your butt...
#108
It's rated at 30A at 12VDC.
You really need to put the switch on the 110 side... If you refer to the picture I posted you'll see my junction box on top... The switch is a push on/off 110v switch. The LED is on the incoming 12v though...
#109
Originally posted by vtl1180ny
You really need to put the switch on the 110 side... If you refer to the picture I posted you'll see my junction box on top... The switch is a push on/off 110v switch. The LED is on the incoming 12v though...
You really need to put the switch on the 110 side... If you refer to the picture I posted you'll see my junction box on top... The switch is a push on/off 110v switch. The LED is on the incoming 12v though...
Last edited by AWOLsoldier; 12-24-2003 at 02:40 PM.
#110
Get yourself a project box while you're there and run everything in there... I like electrical connections to be as safe and secure as I can possibly make them...
#111
Originally posted by vtl1180ny
Get yourself a project box while you're there and run everything in there... I like electrical connections to be as safe and secure as I can possibly make them...
Get yourself a project box while you're there and run everything in there... I like electrical connections to be as safe and secure as I can possibly make them...
#112
Ok digicam refuses to work again so....
I'd get a 110v switch... Here's what I did...
I screwed the box down and drilled 3 holes in one side of the box for the incoming/outgoing 110v and incoming 12v... I ran the 110 into the box and out to the connectors on the PS... I then stripped away the black plastic covering about an inch and a half of the 3 wires... Then I clipped the black, exposed enough insulation on the wire to connect to the switch... put shrink wrap in place, twisted, soldered and put the shrink wrap over... I then proceeded to black tape over the shrink wrap for good measure... That's the 110 side... Still need to solder the ring terminals on, connect, and insulate with silicone to prevent any accicental jolts... Through another side of the box, put as many binding posts as you thing you can use.... run the 12v into the box, you can fuse it if you like (I did) and connect to the respective posts... pretty much done... Dill a hole for the switch, put in a 12v LED on the 12v side if you want, close up the box and you're done...
I'd get a 110v switch... Here's what I did...
I screwed the box down and drilled 3 holes in one side of the box for the incoming/outgoing 110v and incoming 12v... I ran the 110 into the box and out to the connectors on the PS... I then stripped away the black plastic covering about an inch and a half of the 3 wires... Then I clipped the black, exposed enough insulation on the wire to connect to the switch... put shrink wrap in place, twisted, soldered and put the shrink wrap over... I then proceeded to black tape over the shrink wrap for good measure... That's the 110 side... Still need to solder the ring terminals on, connect, and insulate with silicone to prevent any accicental jolts... Through another side of the box, put as many binding posts as you thing you can use.... run the 12v into the box, you can fuse it if you like (I did) and connect to the respective posts... pretty much done... Dill a hole for the switch, put in a 12v LED on the 12v side if you want, close up the box and you're done...
#114
Tech Addict
Originally posted by vtl1180ny
Get a computer power cord, 3 prong and flexible... Cut the end off that goes into the computer. Get some ring trrminals from RS and connect green to ground, white to neutral and black to hot... Best to cover the black and white with some insulating silicon and wrap with tape.... I've been shocked with 110 before, it'll knock you on your butt...
Get a computer power cord, 3 prong and flexible... Cut the end off that goes into the computer. Get some ring trrminals from RS and connect green to ground, white to neutral and black to hot... Best to cover the black and white with some insulating silicon and wrap with tape.... I've been shocked with 110 before, it'll knock you on your butt...
#115
Originally posted by AE Racer
Do you have to solder the ring terminals on or do you just clamp them on with pliars. I think I'm going to put shrink wrap up to the ring of the ring terminal, cover the connections with shoe goo and probably put a lexan shield above that.
Do you have to solder the ring terminals on or do you just clamp them on with pliars. I think I'm going to put shrink wrap up to the ring of the ring terminal, cover the connections with shoe goo and probably put a lexan shield above that.
#116
I had solderless ones but I soldered them anyway... Then again I solder everything... Shrinkwrapped the ends... Like I said, I've been shocked with 110v before, that was enough for me... It was actually twice that I was hit because of a faulty ground in the house, the ground was sending 110 through everything...
#118
Originally posted by AWOLsoldier
Solder, it's the only way to ensure a proper connection.
Solder, it's the only way to ensure a proper connection.
Also, crimps don't melt and flow under high current fault conditions. I always crimp my AC stuff, because if something goes wrong the last thing I want is conductive metal running out of my connectors.
-dave
#119
Originally posted by dpaton
Not really. There's a reason the military uses crimps for really important things. A properly crimped joint is superior to soldering, and actually creates a cold weld and a metal alloy at the points of contact.
Also, crimps don't melt and flow under high current fault conditions. I always crimp my AC stuff, because if something goes wrong the last thing I want is conductive metal running out of my connectors.
-dave
Not really. There's a reason the military uses crimps for really important things. A properly crimped joint is superior to soldering, and actually creates a cold weld and a metal alloy at the points of contact.
Also, crimps don't melt and flow under high current fault conditions. I always crimp my AC stuff, because if something goes wrong the last thing I want is conductive metal running out of my connectors.
-dave
#120
Originally posted by AWOLsoldier
I meant for hobby purposes, most people aren't going to be able to crimp properly to make it worth while.
I meant for hobby purposes, most people aren't going to be able to crimp properly to make it worth while.
I've seen it happen, and watched someone get between that conductor and ground, and I subsequently dialed 911. It may be rare, but I really don't want anyone going to the hospital.
This may just sound like an engineer telling horror stories, but I'm trying to elevate the level of the RC electronics hobbyist.
Safety first, speed second.
-dave