dpaton

Yup. Ring terminals with a little heat shrink to make sure the copper isn't exposed is enough for me, since mine has a plastic shield over the terminals. For those without, silicone will do perfectly.

Connecting to a charger that has clips is problematic at best. For my 75A supply, the one all the pictures are of on the previous page, I have a long skinny project box that has a bunch of binding posts on it, and people can clip to the posts (with the nuts down if the clips are small and with the nuts up/off if they're large). Folks with banana plugs can jack in, and folks with bare wire can play too. I'll see if I can get a picture to illustrate better for you. I use spades on my stuff so I can lock it down on the posts, but there are lots of ways to connect to them.

-dave

Geek

Two questions:

1) After one has hacked an extension cord and hooked it up correctly, is there any reason one couldn't pour some epoxy over the three AC terminals and seal them up from unsuspecting hands electricuting them selves by accidently touching them?

2) Is it possible to hook two up in parallel to get 26 amps; and if so what would be the "safe method"

dpaton

Two answers:

Nope, no reason at all, except that if you use epoxy you'll never be able to replace the power cord when it gets worn, frayed, or one of the wires breaks off near the terminals because it was flexed too much. Silicone is a lot more forgiving.

NO
The safe way is to buy a higher capacity supply, or to distribute the load between them. Paralleling supplies not designed for it will be...bad. The ones listed in this thread are definately not designed for it.

-dave

PitCrew

I got one of the 13 amp power supplies off Ebay. Works good. It says right in the paper work they can be run in parrallel (for 26 amps) or in series (for 24 volts.)

Use some Shoo Goe. It will cover the electrodes, but will peel off if you need it too.

dpaton

I only said doing it with supplies not designed for it would be bad For supplies that can be paralleled, the connections between them must be made carefully, and those sense lines must be attached in just the right place. Follow the parallel wiring diagram to the letter. Make sure you only parallel with identical supplies. All the usual disclaimers apply.

-dave

AE Racer

How long did shipping take for you guys? Is this the same power supply as the others in the thread http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...&category=2563 it's from a diffrent guy who has slightly better feedback and since this will be my first ebay purchase Im looking for the best. dpaton where'd how did you attach the lexan to yours? can you post pics? Could somthing like this allow me to use the clips? http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...&postid=562372 and what are those things called so I can find them.

edit: Actually the other guy has 10 times as many sales so mabey I should go with him.

AE Racer

^^^^^
Which of these guys do you think I should buy from?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...&category=2563
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...&category=2563

After you buy it and send them the money via paypal, then what? Ive never bought anything on ebay before.

pucho

I got mine from the first guy he only charges $9 for shipping the other one want's $10.

dpaton

The lexan shield was supplied with the power supply from the manufacturer. I'm sure they can be had from 3rd parties, but I don't know who or where.
The picture is linked in the first page of this thread, but repeated for brevity:


Attaching binding posts to the terminal block is one way to do it, but if you're using clips you need to be careful of them shorting out on the chassis. The posts also let you use bare wire (mildly dangerous, again, shassis shorting) or spade lugs (preferable, more secure, lower resistance than clips) to plug your gear in. Unfortunately, the ones in the picture you linked to are old style Radio Shack posts, and all the stores near me are dropping the parts lines as fast as they can. You'll probably have to special order them.

If you feel like a project, you can build a binding bost box like mine with some dual binding posts and a project box. Just wire up the box to your supply with a 6' cable or so, I used some monster speaker wire because I believe in fat wires.

-dave

AE Racer

Do you guys think Id be better off getting one of these power supplies and a 16x5v6 or a 16x9v6? The only advantage I see in the 16x9v6 is that that has one extra Amp in its power supply, but I like the size and looks of the 16x5 better.

And with those binding posts, does the plastic part screw off revealing a pole that you can put the clips on?

vtl1180ny

Kinda like this???

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...&postid=583845

dpaton

Exactly

-dave

dpaton

Some do, but if they don't, you can clip it vertically, so that half the clip contacts the banana jack part of the post and half is outside, on the plastic.

-dave

Neil

Wow dont leave those things plugged in unatended. Fire hazard.
If you look at a outlet the rounded opening is the ground. This is very important (It could save your life) It needs to be connected to the chassis of the power supply. The neutral needs to be connceted to the left slot on the outlet. And finally the hot or black wire needs to be connected to the right slot on the outlet. When it comes to power supplys YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. The chassis of that pos must be grounded.

JusBox

iTrader: (1)

Not sure what you're getting excited over, as long as you install the power cord properly, there's no real issues other than user error. These are high quality power supplies, i've had no problems from mine.