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Old 10-25-2003, 10:10 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by PitCrew
I just got one of those exact power supplies off Ebay. I took a standard AC power cord, cut off one end, and spliced the wires. There is NO polarity that needs to be observed on the AC side.
It does matter which terminals the 120vac wires are connected to. One will be labeled "L" for Line or Hot, and the other is labeled "N" for Neutral.

This is to keep the case from becoming live with 120vac. Electricity is NEVER mix and match.
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Old 10-25-2003, 01:33 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by BG
I think they are a great little solid state power supply, for the budget conscious. But to use one in a safe state you must house the ps in a solid but vented kit container that has a fusable link. Those ps can be very dangerous if not properly contained.
those things are really save themselves! its the ppl who doesnt know what they are doing that ususally screw up and shock themselves! people backing home all uses these power supply cuz they are cheap! i never once heard that it died or someone was seriously injured when using one of these power supplies! even with those overly priced integy, novak, or whatever powersuppplies, there is still a risk of getting shocked or shorting the thing! its not because the cheap ones are less safe, all of the power supplies out there are made of the same metal shell and have the possiblilty of shorting or shocking someone!
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Old 10-25-2003, 02:37 PM   #18
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Default OK, here's the deal on wiring these OEM power supplies:

<EE hat on>

AC:

There will be 3 terminals. One will be FG, GND, or similar. That goes to the green wire on your AC cord and the ground (u-pin) on your AC plug. This connection is critical, and you MUST have it. If you don't, you're pleading to be electrocuted, and in violation of a few federal safety statutes. Please connect the ground peoperly. The supplies need it to operate safely, and you need it to not get dead.

There will be one labeled AC(N), Neutral, or similar. That one goes to the white wire in the cord, and to the wide blade of the plug. Finally, you'll have an AC(L), Line or Hot. This one goes to the black wire and the narrow prong. and is the most dangerous of the three, since it's the one carrying the 120V. Treat it with extra caution.

The connections should be made with high quality (spade or preferably ring) terminals that are crimped onto the wire. Putting bare wire under the screw terminals for the AC input is asking for trouble, and in violation of just about every electrical regulation I know of. Ring terminals are captive (they can't pull off) and can be had from your local electronics store, and sometimes even places like Home Depot. Make sure when you crimp the terminals, that the insulation runs into the back of the terminal body. There will be space for it, and it's important that under no circumstances can the AC connectors be touched, any way, any how, ever.

Personally, I like to hack an extension cord to use as a power cable. They have nice heavy wire, and nice molded end connectors. They also have nicely color coded wires (black = hot, white = neutral, green=ground) making the connections easy and pretty much foolproof.

DC:

The S+ and S- connectors are for remote sensing of the voltage, if the power supply is placed a long distance from the load. For our purposes, connect S+ to V+ and S- to V-.

I'll be happy to post some pictures of safe connections if y'all want.

<EE hat off>

-dave
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Old 10-25-2003, 02:45 PM   #19
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You have to connect S+ to V+ and S- to V- for it to work? Please do post pics, i think i started a good topic here and the more knowledge the better.
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Old 10-25-2003, 09:58 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by AWOLsoldier
You have to connect S+ to V+ and S- to V- for it to work? Please do post pics, i think i started a good topic here and the more knowledge the better.
Yo don't always, but a lot of supplies require it. Usually it's just a set of small jumper wires. They carry next to no current, so making them fat isn't a problem.

I'll dig out my camera and take some shots of what I did to my Lamba supply.

-dave
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Old 10-25-2003, 10:34 PM   #21
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Here is a close-up picture of that ps in question.



FG=Ground?
AC(L)=hot?
AC(N)=neutral?
+V = +12V?
-V = -12V?
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Old 10-26-2003, 08:48 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by forty6
Here is a close-up picture of that ps in question.



FG=Ground?
AC(L)=hot?
AC(N)=neutral?
+V = +12V?
-V = -12V?
It looks like the sense lines are already jumpered for you. See the double-wide metal links on the V+S+ and V-S-? Yeah.

The rest is just perfect. Connect it carefully and have a blast

Just make sure you place it somewhere where errant liquids and solder blobs can't fall through the holes in the housing. That would be bad. Don't ask how I know...


-dave
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Old 10-26-2003, 03:09 PM   #23
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RC or "Hobby" specific items sold by RC companies tend to over charge for items.. This power supply is ideal for 2 chargers. I have a boat.... (real) Anything bought with the name "marine" has a price increase.... I just wish ps supplied more amps or I would buy a couple for my super chargers. But these are perfect for people small battery chargers
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Old 10-26-2003, 04:37 PM   #24
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I saw this thread and decided to purchase one of these bad boys. I needed an extra PS to take to the track with me since my current PS is too big and heavy. It looked pretty small, so that's what sold me plus the cheap price.

To those that have one, how much does it weight roughly?
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Old 10-26-2003, 04:39 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by Scrad
I saw this thread and decided to purchase one of these bad boys. I needed an extra PS to take to the track with me since my current PS is too big and heavy. It looked pretty small, so that's what sold me plus the cheap price.

To those that have one, how much does it weight roughly?
I ordered one too.
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Old 10-26-2003, 04:51 PM   #26
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whats the +V+S and -V-S for and how do you know what the hot wire is or doesn't it matter because you can put the plug in the wall either way?
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Old 10-26-2003, 05:17 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by spongebob
whats the +V+S and -V-S for and how do you know what the hot wire is or doesn't it matter because you can put the plug in the wall either way?
Because I'm a nice guy, I'll type it out a little more clearly, and not make any scroll-bar impairment jokes.

S+ and S- are sense lines, used when the power supply is far away from the thing it powers. They help the power supply maintain the peoper voltage at the load. It's only useful if the load (your battery charger fo rinstance) is more than 20 or 30 feet from the supply, and really isn't needed for RC purposes.

In the picture above, the voltage outputs (V+ and V-) are located in 2 places, one where you'd normally expect them, and one right next to the sense lines, so that they can be joined with the nice shiny metal links you see, eliminating the need for wires.

As for the AC connection, it absolutely does matter. L or H is the line/hot connection, and N will be the neutral connection. Hot is the narrow blade, neutral is the wide one. Ground MUST be connected, and will prevent you from flipping the plug. If your supply isn't grounded, fix it NOW. The design of switching power supplies depend on hot and neutral being oriented properly, and absolutely require that the supply be grounded. If they aren't, bad things can happen, and not always immediately.

-dave
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Old 10-26-2003, 05:17 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally posted by spongebob
whats the +V+S and -V-S for and how do you know what the hot wire is or doesn't it matter because you can put the plug in the wall either way?
Read through the thread, there's info on how to hook it up correctly. dpaton wrote a lot of good info on how to do this.
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Old 10-26-2003, 05:46 PM   #29
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Scroll bar impared huh yea thats me. That clearly explains things, thanks. I think I'll have to get one.
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Old 10-26-2003, 06:45 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by Scrad
To those that have one, how much does it weight roughly?
I don't have a scale, but by hand the same as a motor lathe. It has been very dependable hope your is the same.
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