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Old 01-18-2004, 10:07 AM   #181
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YGPM
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Old 01-18-2004, 10:09 AM   #182
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Quote:
Originally posted by dpaton
Um...are you sure that switch is rated for 120V? It sounds more like one for automotive use, which means it's probably only spec'd to 14V.

If it is rated for 120, PM me and we'll get it working.

-dave
yup!!!dpaton helped me steb by step when i was hooking mine up!!!!thanks again!!!
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Old 01-18-2004, 10:11 AM   #183
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well i tryed it yesterday Like twice Went from like 3 ft of cord to like 2 feet now so i dont wanna try again until im positive.
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Old 01-18-2004, 10:18 AM   #184
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try this... i used a computer power cord...

green wire=fg
white=ac(L)
black=ac(N)

v+ and v- goes to your charger...

you can bet them at radioshack,i hope this helps....
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Old 01-18-2004, 10:20 AM   #185
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i got the ps working its just i got a project box and switch i wanna run the ps from a switch So I can plug it and it wont be on until i flip the switch and i wanna run all the plugs from a project box.
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Old 01-18-2004, 10:21 AM   #186
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Default switch

will you be able to post pics on how you put the switch?
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Old 01-18-2004, 10:22 AM   #187
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if i get it to work?
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Old 01-18-2004, 10:23 AM   #188
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ok!!!lol!!
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Old 01-28-2004, 10:58 AM   #189
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Default Fuses, etc.?

I've gotta say thanks, there are a bunch of good looking projects here for me to use in my PS project.

Has anyone installed fuses, fusable links, or any other circuit-breaking component? Is one even necessary? I'm a newb to this stuff, and I'm on my first attempt at a PS & distribution panel/box. I'm currently using a converted PC power supply for my one lone, sad, solo charger... Anyhow, I'm trying to put all the features I'll need into this first panel, so I can play with it for a while, and the see what I want to change when I get a "real" power supply...

Also, is there a way to make a variable output (probably 5V or less) for motor break in, comm lathes, etc.? I've tried an old-school mechanical speed control, but it seems that those things change something other than voltage (amperage, perhaps?). What is the difference between running a motor (for break-in) at 5V, low speed (with a mech. speed control) and running it a 2-3V?

Thanks,
Jay
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Old 02-23-2004, 05:06 PM   #190
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I got this Cosel 13 A power supply off Ebay For 18$ about 1 1/2 months ago and It worked fine. I put 2 chargers i believe to it (millenium pro, Millenium)and It just shut off. When i checked it out and flipped switch on/off it still didn't work. I put a Custom Switch to it and i thought might be that, But it wasnt. I opened it up searched for a fuse it had one but it was good... . Well So i plugged it back in and let it plugged for about 1 min. I started smelling something burning in it, also started to get hot.I opened it back and touched where it was hot, it was coming from the Power capaciters I believe it is. I have no clue what happened to it considering only used it about 2 times. Anyone have any Idea what might of happened?
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Old 02-23-2004, 05:30 PM   #191
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Quote:
Originally posted by True R/C Racing
Anyone have any Idea what might of happened?
Off the top of my head, I'd say it was a bad or undersized part. The other possibility is that there wasn't enough airflow by the cap and it overheated at one point. Generally these supplies are made to work inside another box that has either good convective (passive) airflow or good forced air flow, to cool the internal parts. Of a cap gets too hot, or is used too close to it's limit for too long, it will break down and fail in the manner you observed. If you're feeling handy, I can probably recommend a source for a replacement, but you might be better off replacing the supply.

-dave
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Old 02-23-2004, 05:32 PM   #192
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cant be heating iattached a Fan to the side of it cooling the inside. A fan that takes like 1/2 Amp maybe or less
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Old 02-23-2004, 05:37 PM   #193
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.15 A Fan.
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Old 02-24-2004, 09:07 PM   #194
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Then it's probably just a bum part. It happens sometimes. In the industry it's called an "infantile failure" since the device was so young when it died. If it has a factory warranty I'd normally tell you to send it back, but since it was used so far outside it's design envelope and sold on eBay, your chances on that route are somewhere between slim and none.

Feel free to email me if you want a hand replacing the cap, or alternately just replace the whole supply. It was all of what, $20 or something? It'll cost almost that much for a replacement capacitor...

-dave
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Old 02-25-2004, 01:44 PM   #195
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Generally when a capacitor goes T.U., it is a result of another problem. Even placing a very large load on the power supply shouldn't burn out the capacitor, because once it discharges, it has really no effect on the power supply except that it presents a load to the power supply to recharge. I have taken large capaitors, charged them up, and shorted them out with no problems. It sounds like the VOLTAGE being pulled through the cap was too high; shorting between the plates through the electrolyte. Which means that the transformer, or voltage regulator is probably bad

You may find if you replace the cap that it will just fry again. Unless there was a defect with the cap, but it probably wouldn't have made it through even two race days.

However, I am not an electrician, so I could be and probably am wrong. But, it sounded good when I typed it...
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