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Old 02-08-2002, 02:34 AM   #61
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AFAIK tamiya doesn't yet have alum parts (upright, arms, hub carrier etc) for the TA04. You might want to take a look at www.integy.com - they carry the aftermarket alum parts there.

Care to post a pic of your evo1
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Old 02-08-2002, 02:58 AM   #62
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oh i see.....so are these the right parts that can be used on the TB-evo 1?


6pcs Ball Bearing Bell Crank for TG10 & TB01 (NEW)
1448
$39.99


Front Castor Block for TA04 (NEW)
1474
$19.95



Front Steering Block for TA04 (NEW)
1473
$19.95


Rear Hub Carrier for TA04 (NEW)
1476
$19.95

and holy shit its ex....
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Old 02-08-2002, 05:40 AM   #63
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ok, i just scanned the thinggy, my kay kiang father of mine take the pic until so small and tiny......but we are still learning to use that so called close up camera...
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File Type: jpg tb-evo.jpg (95.3 KB, 244 views)
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Old 02-11-2002, 08:10 PM   #64
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I finally got my TG10 front ball diff from tower. This is what is in the Evolution II by the way. Also why I was working on the front end I compaired the front kick up of the front A-arms, to my 04R. I removed one of the little silver washers from each screw that are between the aluminum hindge pin mount and chassis.
I took it out, and holly WOW! I love the car even more now! I could brake so hard, and get it side ways and nail the throttle almost effortlessly. Its a real pleasure to drive, I didnt even notice any roll, or wandering at all. Every time I punched the throttle it went straight and true. I was using a 19t camelion 34/88 (kit supplied). The front ball diff is worth the $30 or so, I'm not a pro driver, but a good intermediate, so if your wanting a whole different experience with this chassis try one!
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Old 02-11-2002, 10:36 PM   #65
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Hi!!!!! I was just wondering since you installed the ball diffs in front, did you also use the metal gear that came with the ball diff or did you replace it with the extra plastic gear that came with the kit???

And an additional tip: since the ball diff has two brass washers, replace them with ball bearing and hooooooohaaaaaaaa!!!! much better take off!!!!!! I did this at the rear.

I already have the ball diff but have not replaced the one ways yet up front, Is there a difference in performance??? Can you still take corners with out braking??

Thanks!!!!!

Lemuel Pia
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Old 02-12-2002, 06:57 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally posted by hobbipro
.......................I removed one of the little silver washers from each screw that are between the aluminum hindge pin mount and chassis....................

Oh yeah, BTW, WTF is the purpose of these washers?..what do they do??
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Old 02-12-2002, 11:48 PM   #67
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Here ya go. Modded TB EvoII aka TBEV2Kai





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Old 02-13-2002, 06:57 AM   #68
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lem2, I did not use the steel gear that came with the tg10 ball diff. Yes, I used the plastic one that came with the kit. There is no need to add extra rotational mass.
I didnt even think about replacing those brass bushings with BB's.
Also I'm not sure what kind of tracks, or parking lots you run in, but as far as performance is concerned (for me) it was a vast improvement since my tracks consist of a parking lot with pvc pipe that is usually small and technical. I was getting out breaked every lap, and couldnt do anything about it. If I tried to break sooner, or more aggressively it would break loose on me. Now I can pin the breaks and they almost lockup. Its just more forgiving for me to drive, and I can be as aggressive as I want to be.
I would say that if you run on nice flowing tracks then the one way is benifical. I have no problems running one if the track conditions permit it, but as again my tracks do not.

As far as the shims go in the front, my experience with adding shims raises the "anti squat" effect. Well, atleast in offroad if you add more shims in makes the arms resist moving down (rear end dropping) due to the acceleration, grip, forward momentum of the car. I'm not positively sure what Tamiya is doing adding a few degrees to the front end like they are, but none of my other TC's I have had in the past had this, they were usually 0 degrees. I figure they were trying to make the front nice and stable, and easier to control with the one way. I want more aggressive steering, so anything to tune the car that way is a plus.
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Old 02-15-2002, 12:05 AM   #69
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Thanks!!!!!!!

I will just install the front diffs, since I am not a good driver also!!!

Thanks you for the reply!!!

It is much appreciated!!

Lemuel Pia DDM
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Old 02-15-2002, 12:31 AM   #70
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hobbipro: so the TG10 ball diff is exactly like the EVO II right? So I can just order that and put it in my EVO II for the front diff right?
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Old 02-20-2002, 09:04 AM   #71
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this modded evo2, is it like a personal mod for own use, or is it like done by somone from TRF?
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Old 02-21-2002, 07:35 PM   #72
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TG10 ball diff part #53360. Tower hobbies, and Omni models sell them for $32. This diff kit contains the same diff parts that are in the EVO I, and EVO II, the only difference is the TG10 diff set came with a steel gear. Simply use the extra plastic one that came with the EVO II kit (spares). There is absolutely no mods needed, or hunting down parts, screws ect. Put it together, slap it in the front end and your off!
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Old 02-22-2002, 07:55 AM   #73
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HI everyone! i just finished building my Evo 2 as well!

hitec lynx FM radio/quantum sport ESC/Matrix 9.5 stock motor

what do you guys do about the extra length of wiring?

everything is soo close together....I like that KRF chassis....where are all the wires? is having the eSC that close to the motor safe?
doesn't the heat from the motor mess it up?
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Old 02-22-2002, 09:10 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aluma
HI everyone! i just finished building my Evo 2 as well!

hitec lynx FM radio/quantum sport ESC/Matrix 9.5 stock motor

what do you guys do about the extra length of wiring?

everything is soo close together....I like that KRF chassis....where are all the wires? is having the eSC that close to the motor safe?
doesn't the heat from the motor mess it up?
i like to hide my wiring under the upper deck...

for the KRF car up there, it seems that for the sake of taking the first picture, he has bundled it and hidden it behind the upperdeck...

and according to what others told me, if u have no choice, its better to have the esc nearer to the motor than having the receiver nearer....
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Old 02-22-2002, 10:03 AM   #75
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well, my quantum ESC is half the size of the receiver so I just mounted it above the servo....


now, if I do bundle it under the top deck, wont it rub on the shaft?
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