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Old 02-02-2002, 12:05 PM   #46
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What is ment by tightening the diff screw is simply to hold the opposite outdrive to keep it from turning to turn the diff srew in till it stops. DO NOT FORCE THE SCREW, you can tell it wont go any further because it gets harder to turn because the spring washers are being compressed. just kinda close your eyes while lightly tightening it, you will feel when it wont go anymore. Then back out the screw 1/4-1/2 turn, any more then that and the diff will slip because not enough pressure is applied from the spring washers to the diff plates the diff balls press against. If it is too loose the diff will slip and cause a ring of wear on the diff plates where the balls touch, and the balls will get a flat spot on them. Once that happens the ball diff is junk, and the balls and plates must be replaced.
If you set it up like this with plenty of grease, it will feel notchy at first but with a few runs it will feel better and better as it breaks in. You wont have to worry about adjusting it at all. Simply run it till it gets a "Dirty" "Rough" feel, and then its time for a rebulid, or simply buy another diff. Tamiya diffs are good quailty stuff so a rebuild or replacement will not be necessary for a long time
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Old 02-02-2002, 10:04 PM   #47
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My Evo II lacks some onpower steering, it pushes on power coming out of a turn, any remedies? I'm using Tamiya blue springs in the front and stock reds in the rear. with 30wt oil in all 4 shocks.
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Old 02-03-2002, 09:39 AM   #48
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racingdc9, Try this.......Put the reds back on all around, remove the front sway bar. Go run it, see if it needs more steering. If it does, put your blue springs on the REAR. This will give the front end tons of traction, and will feel "twitchy" at first, but you should be able to turn on a dime.
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Old 02-03-2002, 12:57 PM   #49
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Hobbipro: When I did run the reds all around, the car seemed like it leaned a little too much and that was with the roll bars on. Do you think if I use a heavier weight oil, then that will correct the excessive leaning? I'll try it out and lets see what it will do. Do you have a mod motor set up?

thanks,

Tommy
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Old 02-03-2002, 03:28 PM   #50
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I had a Fantum 10x2 Mod motor running a 27/88 gearing. I had Tried a white spring in the rear (Ex hard) with yellow spring in the front (medium) with 50-60wt oil. It had excellent streering, almost too much.
Now, I'm running 60wt all around, front bar taken off, red in front with yellow or blue in rear. I recommend one step harder in the rear which ever spring is chosen for the front. I think taking the bar off in the front is the key to better steering no matter what you choose.
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Old 02-03-2002, 08:27 PM   #51
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hobbipro,

what a coincidence. the way you set up your EVOII is exactly the way I set up my EVOI. Maybe not exactly but very close. I use 70Wt oil all around, blue spring at front, white at the rear.

The car does lose some steering when entering corner with full throttle (in this case I meant, with a big corner where you can take it with full throttle. otherwise I don't believe anyone entering the corner with full throttle at all). It tends to go wide on those big corners. However, just let go the throttle a bit fixed that.

I raced my EVOI today and it sticked to the ground. however, it's top end is not as impressive as some belt drive cars.

Also, I notice that gearing evo is a lot different from gearing a belt drive car. A high gear ratio seems to do evo good. I geared at 6.36 at a mid size track, where my racing buddies geared around 7. I tried to gear close to 7 however the car didn't get a good top speed. The reason behind is, I think, is that evo has tons of torque, that's why when I gear high I get better result for top speed. (it's just what I think, maybe the logic behind it is totally wrong, since some of this gearing turns are really confusing such as High means small, Low mean big final ratio...)
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Old 02-03-2002, 09:44 PM   #52
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Hobbipro: thanks for the advice, I will definitely try the setup. However, I see you run a 27/88. The 88 is the stock spur right? Also, what pitch is the 27, is it 64 Pitch? If it is, I didn't know that 64 pitch went down to a 27 tooth pinion. What gearing do you use for stock motors, especially the P2K?

thanks,

tommy
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Old 02-04-2002, 07:04 AM   #53
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racingdc9, The 27 I use is a Tamiya 04 pitch. They actually go down to around 20, or 21 I believe (someone correct me if I'm wrong). And go up to the 50+ so there's plenty of gearing choices. As far as stock (P2K) I've only tried out the 34/88 that came in the kit, it seems to lack a little on the top end so I may need to go to a 35/36. You can use 64p if you can find the size you need since the teeth spacing is almost identical.
With a stock motor I did not notice any chassis pull to the right at all, as with my 10x2 mod. I'm really interested to see how it drives once I stick a ball diff up front.

Does anyone have a little slop in there steering as well? I guess it unavoidable since there are 10 ball cups in the steering system.
I just wished they had used a solid bar or something to join the bellcranks.
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Old 02-04-2002, 07:28 AM   #54
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speaking of which, does any third party make alu steering for the evo I or II?.....or even a solid piece or somthing?

how about the C-hubs, uprights and part A10 (those who have the manual can tell me what this part called please)?....i noticed slop coming from there as well.....any alu parts for them?
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Old 02-04-2002, 09:31 AM   #55
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I think Integy has the aluminum steering bellcranks for the EVO I and I think it will also fit the EVO II
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Old 02-04-2002, 09:54 AM   #56
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tamiya makes the alu steering for TB01, and it can be fitted in for any EVO I think.

I put the alu steering from Tamiya into my EVO1. Asked around for help because it just won't clear the gear box. However, I finally get it fit into the car with 8 thick plastic spacers, it cleared the gear box perfectly and the steering is sooo much more percise. You all can try it out. it really improved the steering a lot.

The black spacers supplied by the kit are not enough to make this modification. Try to see if you have any black round spacers from other old tamiya kit or not. I found all my spacers from my M04L S2000 kit from tamiya. Tamiya kits often time has a lot of left over parts. Just try to find it.
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Old 02-05-2002, 12:48 AM   #57
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Default Re: steering bell cranks

Hello!!! If you cant find spacers, you can always use a nut as a replacement for the spacers!

and also!!!

the aluminum c hub and knuckle arm for the TA04 will fit perfectly on the TBevo!!!!! The TB01 aluminum Chub and knuckle arm is designed for short suspension arms.

I have seen one around here and it looks heavenly!!!!!
They said the angle of the chub and knuckle arm for the TA04 is much better than stock!!!!
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Old 02-05-2002, 01:12 AM   #58
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Hi!! I have a post in the TBevolution Thread regarding how to install the Aluminum Bellcrank for the TB-01 in the TBevo!!!
Just look for it!!!!!
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Old 02-05-2002, 07:17 AM   #59
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Default Re: Re: steering bell cranks

Quote:
Originally posted by lem2
the aluminum c hub and knuckle arm for the TA04 will fit perfectly on the TBevo!!!!! The TB01 aluminum Chub and knuckle arm is designed for short suspension arms.
Do u know the part numbers for these 2 parts?..i cant seem to find them at all anywhere.....

PS: any alu parts for the rear uprights?

Quote:
I have seen one around here and it looks heavenly!!!!!
They said the angle of the chub and knuckle arm for the TA04 is much better than stock!!!! [/B]
are u talking about the aluminium chub and knuckle arm?



Thanks.

Last edited by Dragon; 02-05-2002 at 09:09 AM.
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Old 02-07-2002, 10:58 PM   #60
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anyone?
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