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Old 09-09-2002, 06:38 AM   #361
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hey retro T, i dont think that we're giving up on it, just frustrated... the tbevo2 is very stiff and unforgiving on setup...you're off on anything and it will handle funky.

thats why ruf and myself have been playing with setting so see what would be the ideal setup or something close to it... i understand that the aluminum ball ends are lighter but they are also weaker... i've already had one shear half of itself inside the screw hole...well, regardless to say, i had to replace the whole part cuz i couldnt get it out... also sheared a bolt inside a bulkhead...just the bottom end so theres some thread left in the hole to use.

maybe you can help us out too. post your setups like ruf and I have been and maybe you'll find the sweet spot and everyone who owns a evo2 will rejoice and send you fries or something

Although, that XXX-S really is tempting now....but i know i'd need lots of extra parts... probably why i dont wanna give up on my evo2.(months of hardcore crashing and intense rookie racing and just one broken carrier block...NOW THATS A CAR!
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Old 09-09-2002, 07:06 AM   #362
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No problem. Let me write down on a piece of paper first before I write this up nicely for you guys. Got some tips from the Japan Tamiya RC car magazine but need to solve those Japanese words first. Pretty frustrating if you dun know Japanese
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Old 09-09-2002, 11:29 AM   #363
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hey guys check out my local track...

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Old 09-09-2002, 11:48 AM   #364
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Dude what the heck do they use to make your track? Looks like stacked 2x4? Ouch. I'll try to post of new pic of our track.

Actually I find that stiffness really helps me set up a car. I can feel the changes I make easier and adjust faster. I just can't seem to get the corner speed that I want and the forward drive on exit. We will see how it goes today. I hope that it is just my tires. I have never run the car on carpet before, and to tell you the truth, that is my weakness in setup. I really don't know how to set up for carpet.
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Old 09-09-2002, 12:40 PM   #365
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its mostly pvc pipe with stacked 2x4's as the ends with steel corner dots. check out www.oneallspecialtyhobbies.com for more pix of the track and stuff we do around here.
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Old 09-09-2002, 03:00 PM   #366
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Default carpet set-up

carpet setup

front
tamiya blue springs, asc 60wt oil
1.4mm spacer under front and rear suspension blocks up front
1mm droop
new front reinforced one way
blue sway bar

rear
tamiya blue springs, asc 50wt oil
1.4mm spacer under front and rear suspension blocks
1mm droop
blue sway bar
2mm rear toe block

pit 24r tires all around with medium soft takeoff inserts

fiddle with shock position and rear toe to suit driving style

car runs well almost as fast as 414M. The M is king here in toronto electric racing. Friend beat me in qualifying, beat him in the main. He's faster but i'm more consistent. New toe blocks and sway bars allow for enough adjustment to compete against M. Toe blocks come in 3, 2.5, 2.0 and 1.5 degree, highly recommend it
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Old 09-09-2002, 03:04 PM   #367
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Default carpet

Forgot to mention, that is a mod set-up. We usually run 8-9 turn motors, 3000 umh or sanyo hv batteries, 5 min races. anything 10 or higher is too slow here.
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Old 09-09-2002, 03:12 PM   #368
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what do you run on bumpy asphalt? different setting for oneway and front ball diff?
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Old 09-09-2002, 04:15 PM   #369
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Aluma - looking at your track layout, I don't know why you don't run the one-way. Set your suspension up for the bumps and the traction level. I think that the layout is pretty one-way friendly.

fatcity - I think the Evo2 would be a much better car in mod than in stock. The rear toe in blocks are nothing new. They are just prettier versions of the 414M blocks...
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Old 09-09-2002, 04:24 PM   #370
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Default blocks

The 414m one dot gives you 1.5 degree toe, the 414m double dot that surikarn uses on his M gives you 2 degrees, but the optional blocks for the evo2 give you the additional choice of 2.5 and 3 degree. Could be a margin of error of 1/2 degree. because with my hudy stuff I thing stock toe is 1 degree rear and when i use the M one dot block It gave me 1.5 degree toe. I agrre they are nothing new since I have seen TRF drivers use them, but the sway bar and block kit give you more options then just using the M blocks that are available.
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Old 09-09-2002, 04:39 PM   #371
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Default set-up

Set-up with the car with a Diff is totally different than with a one way. With the diff the car doesn't want to turn. I only use it on the most slippery of tracks, like dusty concrete. I much prefer driving with a oneway. It all depends. I have friends who have raced internationally and they have mentioned that different areas have different driving styles. They mentioned that in general americans like there cars to be stable and predictable, it may not be the fastest cornering cars, but the best drivers can hit hit their lines so consistently ,without mistakes that they totally rip around the track. The japanese love one ways, and emphasize corner speed to the detriment stability. They may not drive the most consistent lines but there cars whip aroung the corners so quickly it makes up for that. I noticed that whne I watched a bootlegged version of the 2000 ISTC world championships in Japan. Mark Pavidis's car looked so stable, but masami and hara's cars were one step away from losing it. It was hard to tell,because they were driving so smooth, but when masami or hara made a mistake there cars looked like they were going to skid out, mistakes with Pavidis's car never looked as dramatic or dangerous
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Old 09-09-2002, 04:56 PM   #372
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Barry Baker with a one-way in his TC3 is just ridiculous...

Not sure but I thought Pavidis was running a one-way at the Worlds.

The 414M 3-dot block should also give you 2.5 degrees of toe. I use the 2-dot myself. Any more rear toe and the ass end won't rotate.
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Old 09-09-2002, 09:03 PM   #373
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This is what I use for the Reedy International Race in Indonesia this year. Track is resurfaced asphalt covered with sugar water on race day. Temperature about 30 - 35 degree celcius.

Front
Tamiya blue spring with Yokomo 550wt oil
Tamiya new blue front swaybar
Droop 2mm
The old one way set
Toe out 1 degree
Camber -1

Rear
Tamiya yellow spring with Yokomo 550wt oil
Tamiya new yellow rear swaybar
Droop 3mm
Gear diff
Toe in 2.5 degree ( tested with 2 degree but it was not enough to handle 9 turn )( 2.5 degree for mod, 2 degree for stock )
Camber -2

Equipment
Futaba S9450
Keyence V Extreme
KO EX1 Mars
Tyres: Sorex 36R with Medium inserts
Motor: Yokomo S Pro 9x2 + Reedy MVP
Gearing:55/19 ( Tamiya AVI teeth ), 55/23 ( stock )
Final ratio: 7.5 ( for Mod )
Batteries: Sanvo HV and SMC macthed packs

The car handling was great. It just hook up to the track. Maybe you need to change the toe in/out to suit your driving style. By the way, this is a high traction track so since I already have traction, what I needed next is to make the car exit in and out of the corner faster. But I guess, it is still slower than 414M. Pictures of the track can be seen at www.tq-racing.com

************************************************** **************************************************

For my home track, I uses the following best for the car. Experimented with quite a few settings. This track is poor in traction as we share it with those nitros

Front
Tamiya blue spring with Yokomo 450wt oil
No swaybar
Droop 1mm
Gear diff
Toe out 1 degree
Camber -1

Rear
Tamiya yellow spring with Yokomo 550wt oil
Tamiya new yellow rear swaybar
Droop 3mm
Gear diff
Toe in 2 degree
Camber -2

Equipment
Futaba S9450
Keyence V Extreme
KO EX1 Mars
Motor: Yokomo S 2 13x2
Gearing:55/19 ( Tamiya AVI teeth )
Final ratio: 7.5
Batteries: Sanvo HV and SMC macthed packs


Tyres: Pit Shimizu S pattern with original inserts ( for night ). Sorex 28R or 32R ( for day ). Hope it helps ..... Happy racing

Last edited by RetroTamiya; 09-10-2002 at 05:05 AM.
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Old 09-10-2002, 11:25 AM   #374
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well, i guess I'll give that oneway a try again...its just that i hated spinning out when i first started...had to drive slower cuz i couldnt brake very hard. but with y'alls setup it might be the best thing to do...
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Old 09-10-2002, 02:51 PM   #375
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Default one-ways

Aluma you can't use brakes when driving a one way, you must let off the throttle and coast into a turn, its not like driving a real race car where you brake into a corner. If you must brake do it only when the car is going perfectly straight, and the brakes on the speed controller has to be set to like 60% of the maximum value. Only the pros can use brakes with a one way. Remember a long time ago when Paul Lemieux still drove for Schumacher, he came up to race in St catherines, that sick bastard was using drag brake on his carpet car with a one way, and was using brakes into some of the corners. Very impressive never saw any body do it before
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