Aluma

iTrader: (1)

I use Integy's Aluminum TA04 front hubs for my TB2 but I also switched to the TA04 Racing carrier front set with extra tierod supports. they look nice and have no flex...

BUT be warned... aluminum looks nice, but if you hit a wall you're likely to break the aluminum kingpin ball end that comes with the racing set...its ugly to get the screw out too... you wont find a replacement unless you buy a whole new set, but i found that an Associated long ballend with a TC3 spacer bushing can be substituted for it incase you do break the original.

As far as the rear... I dont know... havent broken anything back there yet.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Thanks guys I will look into doing it here in the near future. I did have my shop order the new alum. steering bell cranks and the new hardened arms. Hope they can get them.

coolrcdad

Just found out that there will be a hand-out motor for GT-2 class at the Tamiya nats this year (Tamiya won't say which one until week of race). I'm assuming it will be a Tamiya stocker. Anyone have any tuning experience with these (Type R, S &T)? Thanks.

superk

iTrader: (8)

Guy! I need some help! My rear out drive on my EVO II have 2 big nik on it! from my dogbones! Now my suspension cost me alot of problem on handleing and radio glitch!

Since the out rear out drive is metal and CVD dog bones is aluminum and it keep hitting every time I drive the car and it cost me problem!

I need some help! I went to the LHS and he can't find the outdrive for me! I have the part # and all but still can't look for it. Where can I get it? Please help!

x414x

http://www.kt.rim.or.jp/~hirofact/HOME.html

Evo2man

Hi guys

about 4 months ago i purchased my evo 2 and since then
it has been great. i must admit i have had my doughts
about the car, but when i pull out of corners the car really
does take off well. i have been using my car with a 540
standard motor running in a class callled superstock. the
gearing i am currently using is 40/72 and it works great.
just a couple of tips you should know about the car to get
the maximum performance out of it. when i got my car
i noticed writting on the back of the little shaft gears which
drive the diffs. i shaved the writting off and i noticed it saves
the car from alot of clicking whilst driving! another point to
notice is that the rear diff comes loose so make sure you
tighten the screw. but dont tighten it to much or else you
might wreck the diff! anyway guys show me some pics of
ur cars!!!

Aluma

iTrader: (1)

when i bought the front ball diff for my evo2 it came with new drive cups... If you dont have it and you dont mind not using the ball diff you can get them that way. tower gots it.

Its a whole new animal once you put in the ball diff up front. (Y)

Aluma

iTrader: (1)

hi everyone... i've been racing my evo2 for a while and find that i cant seem to get it setup right... I race on a prepared track(but its really old and parking lotish) Its very bumpy and the entire track is about 60X90ft.... the thing is that my car despite my efforts keep oversteering like crazy and i cant figure out why! This is how bad its gotten.... I turn and all you hear is screeeching...i've setup like this to minimize that...

front- white springs, 50wt, stock position, -1deg camber, stock caster(2tiny washers under front susp. holders), zero toe, hpi 27r, soft inserts, rideheight=6mm, droop 4

Rear- red springs, 40wt, layed down all the way, -6deg camber, stock caster, zero toe, hpi 27r, soft inserts, rideheight=7mm
droop 3

any you racers got a good setup for bumpy parking lot racing?
I'm going nuts!! and get this... if i use any of my other tires the car just spins around all over the place!

could it be my rear diff....i have it kinda tight.


HHEELLLLPPPP!!!!

imataquito

ok try this 1st change the front diff tighteness so it would be like the rear and losen the rear up ......
say 1/10 of a turn then try ...do it again the try it note the difference ......
but make sure its NOT LOOSE ...

then try standing up ur rear shocks ..... then try .......
note diffrence and change to a stiffer springs to try if u want

once u have all of these noted out ..(best to write in ur own discriptive language )
then set the car up according to ur liking refering to the notes



if u r lazy to try all those ...... and want a quick fix ... try standing up the rear shocks ... and then make the front diff tighter and rear loose also reduce the rear camber a bit too much ... the most i would go is 2.5 deg neg-

other few tips to keep ur rear end planted .....

more rear droop less front droop

lower rear ride height

a bit of toe in in the rear

tsunami

I was supposed to buy a 2nd hand Factory TC3 from a guy when I saw an EVO II he was also selling. I fell in love with it too! Now I can't decide which one to get. My question is: How does this car compare with the TC3 in terms of performance and durability? My other concern is that parts for this car may not be as available as the ones for the TC3. Maybe I'm just looking for more reasons to choose the EVO II over the TC3.

Anyone care to help?

dtm

I have both....my chioce would be the TC3! However, it is a little more fragile! You can get all the plastic parts for the Evo.....the gearbox and carbon may be a little more difficult...although hopefully you will not need to replace those!

Aluma

iTrader: (1)

well, i tell ya one thing...the evo2 is really difficult to setup, it has sooo many adjustments you can make.(but that can also be a good thing ) well, i changed my whole setup and now my car heavily understeers....when before i was oversteering like crazy.

I THINK i finally figured out why too...it werent the diffs, it werent the springs... I THINK its the amount of DROOP!!

cuz before i had white springsfront, red out back with lots of droop...oversteering (2spacers up front block) tire screechin like a bashee super loose

now i got red fronts, blue out back and NO droop ...understeering
(2 spacers front rear block)then i tried blue front, red rear and NO droop... same understeering(no spacers front).zilch tire screech, and way too PLANTED!

the evo2 must be extremely sensitive to droop... I'm gonna play with that now and see if that can be the culprit all along.

Aluma

iTrader: (1)

I wish Tamiya would give a really good tuning guide for the TBevo2. like what setup is best for bumpy track, smooth track, twisty track, what spur/pinion combos for different tracks and motors, etc...and what each little adjustment will do.

TC3's got one and buncha other cars too. I'm using the X-ray evo2 tuning guide as best that i can...


Tamiya could probably make the BEST guide out there...If only they would

wyd

iTrader: (51)

As for gearing just run the stock 88 tooth for everything. The 72 is too small for almost anything.

The EVO2 is a really nice car. I had one and it was pretty fast but I didn't car for the loose outdrives which kinda is a poor design on a car of that quality. Other than that is can get the job done.

TRF-Powered

Aluma,

Tamiya does make Tuning guy for TBEvoII. They have a tunning book for TA04 and TBEVOII. I think it's only available in Japan tough, you can call up Tamiya USA to see if they have it for sell. They might have the English version too.