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Old 10-20-2003, 03:30 PM   #46
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Originally posted by Cobra81li200 What I've said is that the car has loads of hop ups that are unusefull and you CANNOT say that they did not made major modifications to their car since its release, it's the case for ae, not X-Ray. I'm not only talking about the stiffness of the suspension arms.

First, they've changed the design of their suspension arms twice in 2 years (first from serpent to their own design, second with the new shorter arms) something no other brand ever did !

Noneless to mention the 4 different top decks availables, or the brand new anti-roll bars (its a good thing, but still it is something new...). [/B]
All the options are the reasons for buying an Xray. 4 different top decks, they all work in different conditions. I wouldn't dream of trying the flexible ones on carpet, but then again I wouldn't use the stiffest in the wet outside. Everything they release has a point in terms of performance. I challenge you to find something they have on the options list that doesn't change how the car handles, and that is the whole point. You don't NEED anything, but if you want to alter the handling and go faster then by all means try something on the list. You might not like it, but you will notice the difference. Have you noticed how the EVO2 is simply that, all the options included and sold AT THE SAME PRICE AS THE T1. The basic design of the car hasn't changed at all; cells, motor and diffs all in the same place.

From what I gather you'd rather have an all new car every 6 months than have constant, team tested, options released that keep the car competitive.
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Old 10-20-2003, 03:42 PM   #47
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Originally posted by university_dave
All the options are the reasons for buying an Xray. 4 different top decks, they all work in different conditions. I wouldn't dream of trying the flexible ones on carpet, but then again I wouldn't use the stiffest in the wet outside. Everything they release has a point in terms of performance. I challenge you to find something they have on the options list that doesn't change how the car handles, and that is the whole point. You don't NEED anything, but if you want to alter the handling and go faster then by all means try something on the list. You might not like it, but you will notice the difference. Have you noticed how the EVO2 is simply that, all the options included and sold AT THE SAME PRICE AS THE T1. The basic design of the car hasn't changed at all; cells, motor and diffs all in the same place.

From what I gather you'd rather have an all new car every 6 months than have constant, team tested, options released that keep the car competitive.
In the wet?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?

Oh, England(i have never raced in the rain before...)
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Old 10-20-2003, 03:54 PM   #48
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hhhhmmm.
evo3sl or 414m2 wcr.
two of the best cars money can buy.
dont no bout 4 years but thatll set me up for a life time.
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Old 10-20-2003, 03:57 PM   #49
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Originally posted by Rampant
...If you want to bring up that point, the TC3 is the most modded car I have seen run by the Pros. Especially having to custom mill the chassis and diff cases. Both of which seems like manufacuring or design flaws to me. Does that make it a poor performer? Hardly. Just a little more up front work.
When you perfom a modifacation such as milling the center trusses to move the battery more centerline with the chassis, 90% of the modifacation is mental. If you perform such a mod, and say that this car will go faster now because the chassis is more ballanced, then you(accually your mind) will feel the difference. Design flaws? The TC3 has been competitive since it was introduced in 1999, although the designers have added more adjustments for the racer to play with. "Especially having to custom mill the chassis and diff cases", no one HAS to custom mill anything on the car, they WANT to mill the chassis and diff cases. In my opinion, the "most modded car" that I have seen raced by the pros is the LOSI, mostley to reduce weight.
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Old 10-20-2003, 04:03 PM   #50
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Originally posted by Bubblestc3
When you perfom a modifacation such as milling the center trusses to move the battery more centerline with the chassis, 90% of the modifacation is mental. If you perform such a mod, and say that this car will go faster now because the chassis is more ballanced, then you(accually your mind) will feel the difference. Design flaws? The TC3 has been competitive since it was introduced in 1999, although the designers have added more adjustments for the racer to play with. "Especially having to custom mill the chassis and diff cases", no one HAS to custom mill anything on the car, they WANT to mill the chassis and diff cases. In my opinion, the "most modded car" that I have seen raced by the pros is the LOSI, mostley to reduce weight.
not as competitive as a tamiya though!
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Old 10-20-2003, 04:46 PM   #51
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Well it all depends on which racetrack you are speaking of, and which drivers are driving them...
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Old 10-20-2003, 07:18 PM   #52
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CMW: We are intending to serve you proper at the end of the week. Losi all up on ya!
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Old 10-20-2003, 07:22 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bubblestc3
When you perfom a modifacation such as milling the center trusses to move the battery more centerline with the chassis, 90% of the modifacation is mental. If you perform such a mod, and say that this car will go faster now because the chassis is more ballanced, then you(accually your mind) will feel the difference. Design flaws? The TC3 has been competitive since it was introduced in 1999, although the designers have added more adjustments for the racer to play with. "Especially having to custom mill the chassis and diff cases", no one HAS to custom mill anything on the car, they WANT to mill the chassis and diff cases. In my opinion, the "most modded car" that I have seen raced by the pros is the LOSI, mostley to reduce weight.
Agreed,. & anyone who thinks that the TC3's suspension arms are fragile or weak should have a close look at mine, I've broken so few arms that I still have front arms on it that DON'T EVEN HAVE DROOP SCREWS. I just don't break them often, & I don't care for replacing things that aren't broken, so I haven't gotten around to changing them(though I have a pair of version 2 arms waiting to be installed, & I'll probably do it when I'm ready to try a rear shock tower up front). And as I said the first time, I've had mine for nearly 4 years now, so I think its durability is without question.....
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Old 10-21-2003, 12:41 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally posted by Grizzbob
...I've broken so few arms that I still have front arms on it that DON'T EVEN HAVE DROOP SCREWS.....
Broken so few... the sentense in itself confirms the arms are fragile I've never broken an A-arm on my HPI cars AE probably makes a fortune by selling arms, so they dont have to release a new car.....

Dont take this too serious, it's a joke, I just couldnt resist. So please dont start the flames
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Old 10-21-2003, 09:54 AM   #55
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My car is better than your car discussion reminds me of kindergarden. LOL

Seriously though, how you tune the car and how you drive the car matters so much more than what car you drive. Drive what you can afford to buy and keep running.

shaft v. belt
carbon plate v. molded
saddle packs v. stick pack
blah v blah

Non of this matters

Buy what you can afford to run
Learn to tune it to your track
Learn to drive a race without needing a marshal from your own fault.
Learn car prep so you don't break.

If you have an xray and need more punch, gear lower or learn to tune a motor for more torque. If you drive a shaft car, learn to deal with the power on/off torque steer. I could go on about any of the cars handling aspects. Most races are won and lost on the infield, not the straights.

If you can do that, you are *almost* guarenteed to place in the top three at local races.
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Old 10-21-2003, 10:09 AM   #56
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All good advice. If I had to stick with one car for a few years, I'd pick the one with the best parts support and a strong fan base to ensure longevity. I'd choose the yokomo sd because that's the only one i have right now. I'd love to try a RC Lab or Barracuda though.
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Old 10-21-2003, 10:59 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally posted by sands
My car is better than your car discussion reminds me of kindergarden. LOL



Yeah, well...... My daddy can beat your daddy up!!!!


Otherwise WELL SAID!!!! alot of guys keep jumping from 1 chassis to the next and never learn how to tune anything..... incase anyone hasn't noticed all chassis's DONOT react the same way to each change!!! On the Mission and 414 you need to raise the rollcenter for stability and on the Losi lowering the R/C makes the car much more stable.......
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Old 10-21-2003, 11:02 AM   #58
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the car makes a difference, but only a little. most cars out there with a little modification could be competitive with each other. it's the driver that counts! most of those pro drivers could drive a rtr tc3 in circles around a novice racer in a $2000 car! what everyons should do is forget about which car is more fragile and learn not to keep hitting stuff be4 getting that expensive car! (no offense of coarse)

i would still run my tc3... fragile or not, because i prefer it!
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Old 10-21-2003, 12:12 PM   #59
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I'll take an Alex Racing Barracuda R2 (R3 out in Dec.) and maybe a Yoke MR4TC Pro...Just had the best luck w/ these 2 cars.
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Old 10-21-2003, 01:27 PM   #60
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Forgot to mention

Learn how to stay away from people who will put you into the boards from their inability to drive.

Slowing down a few seconds a lap is better then needing a 10 second marshal. At my home track, lap times are 11-14 seconds, class dependent. One marshal will put you down 3/4 a lap. Add on a couple of bad lines, and you are down a lap. So essentially one wreck = one lost lap.
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