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Old 12-23-2008, 01:50 PM   #16
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If you're going to run the pack again the same day, let it cool, then tray it to .9v per cell, then charge at 6 amps.

If you're going to store the pack, charge it at 6 amps for ten to fifteen minutes before putting it away. Next time you use it, discharge at 30 amps to 3.6v(4 cell) or 5.4v(6 cell) then tray to .9v per cell, then charge.
Boy do I love my lipos.
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Old 12-23-2008, 03:08 PM   #17
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Boy do I love my lipos.
Me too... just writing about NIMH care and feeding is PITA enuff for me these days...
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Old 12-23-2008, 06:50 PM   #18
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I hear that, & it still amazes me that even in some industries(like the airlines), they have aircraft components(like backup power supplies for their avionics) that still use old 1200mah NiCd packs(I know because I used to work at an avionics repair shop & got to work on those units & test the battery packs), I think they'd be SO much more reliable & perform better with the right LiPo pack(though they'd be a bit different from what we race, the old packs consisted of 20 cells, & had temp sensors & a warming blanket so they could be kept at an operable temperature when the plane is at high altitude{where it gets VERY cold in the avionics compartments}). But back on topic, there is one thing you can do to check the cells in a battery pack(it's not the whole story, but it's easy to look at), when it's been discharged before you recharge it, take a voltmeter & touch its probes to the ends of each individual cell. Even when fully discharged, once a draining load has been removed from them, the cells should return to their nominal resting voltage(which is around 1.2 volts per cell, roughly). If a cell is considerably lower than that, then likely something is creating a lot of internal resistance in it(which might keep it from recovering fully, though it'd also make its voltage when peaked on the charger look higher than normal, that's why an older 6 cell pack can read closer to 10 volts when it peaks instead of the 9 volts or so that the others mentioned before). And if it reads close to 0 volts or just a bit above that, then there's most likely a short in the cell(& if so, then it may as well be used as a paperweight, because it won't be of much use as a battery anymore). Oh, & if you're still confused about using a voltmeter(like what they are), just search for voltmeters at Radio Shack, they do have some cheap ones that'll do for simple tasks like checking for a dead cell in a pack.....
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Old 12-23-2008, 08:48 PM   #19
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K guys thanks for the advice.... I'm kinda wishing I could run the lipo's now too. these batteries are way to much of a hassle.... However the RS4 Pro 2 really doesn't have that option and plus i just spent a lot of money on the batts and charger recently... Having to get a discharge tray really sucks and is kind of a killer for a new enthuiseist such as my self.. It is more hassle to get the car ready than it is to build the chasis LOL....

I hear all kinds of different things on what to do and what not to do that it is just driving me crazy... All I wanna do is play around with the thing every once and a while... This def isn't the set up or kit that is for that..

Thanks for the info.. I'll definately be around.. i can't afford a Discharge tray at the moment so i guess I'm at a loss here...

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Old 12-23-2008, 09:41 PM   #20
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Let me first apologise to you, and backpedal just a bit... I'm a hardcore racer, so I sometimes tend to jump the gun and answer questions from that particular perspective, not always the right answer depending on circumstances...

If you're not racing, you don't really need to go through everything I described previously... for that matter, you don't really need top of the line matched cells...

If you're intent is to run the car from time to time, and not to race every seek, then you don't need to go through the rituals I spelled out, you really only need to charge and run. When the car slows noticeably, stop, let the battery cool, and then charge again.

I'd still recommend the tray, it will extend the life span of your battery, but don't buy it new, you can find the Novak on sale here in the buy/sell forums for as little as $20.

All I'd do if I were just running the car for fun from time to time is to tray the pack before the first charge of the day, then run til the car slows, let the battery cool, and recharge for 40 minutes or so. After the last run of the day, put 15 minutes of charge in the pack to store it, then next time you run the car, tray before the first charge, and go.

You CAn fit a LiPO in your car, no need to run out and get it now, but it will be a viable option when you want to do it. Get a decent balancing charge for the LiPO and you're all set.

Sorry if my first response put you off, I guess I've looked at things from the racer perspective for so long that I sometimes forget that most of us aren't actually racing...
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Old 12-23-2008, 10:40 PM   #21
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There are saddle pack LIPO's out there that can be run in the Pro2. I still have a Pro2 and I recently ran it in an event. I had a great time with it and I am now thinking about turning it into a USVTA car just for more fun. The thing that would set you back would be more expense with going to LIPO now if the chrger you just bought doesn't have LIPO capability. That would meana new charger and 1 or 2 LIPO packs. That would be something to look forward to in the future or wait to see if you get a different chassis.

Just do what Trips said and you should be fine.
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Old 12-23-2008, 11:38 PM   #22
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I still race a Pro 2, and I just recently converted to saddle pack lipos. Let me know if you need any help finding the proper saddle pack to fit.
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Old 12-23-2008, 11:42 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trips View Post
Me too... just writing about NIMH care and feeding is PITA enuff for me these days...
+1.. lipos FTW
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Old 12-23-2008, 11:49 PM   #24
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I still race a Pro 2, and I just recently converted to saddle pack lipos. Let me know if you need any help finding the proper saddle pack to fit.
The OP has another thread asking about other suggestions and it was stated that a "stick" type Lipo could work in the Pro 2. I only used saddle pack NiMH cells in my car so I was wondering if you think that this would be true?
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Old 12-24-2008, 08:25 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Trips View Post
Let me first apologise to you, and backpedal just a bit... I'm a hardcore racer, so I sometimes tend to jump the gun and answer questions from that particular perspective, not always the right answer depending on circumstances...

If you're not racing, you don't really need to go through everything I described previously... for that matter, you don't really need top of the line matched cells...

If you're intent is to run the car from time to time, and not to race every seek, then you don't need to go through the rituals I spelled out, you really only need to charge and run. When the car slows noticeably, stop, let the battery cool, and then charge again.

I'd still recommend the tray, it will extend the life span of your battery, but don't buy it new, you can find the Novak on sale here in the buy/sell forums for as little as $20.

All I'd do if I were just running the car for fun from time to time is to tray the pack before the first charge of the day, then run til the car slows, let the battery cool, and recharge for 40 minutes or so. After the last run of the day, put 15 minutes of charge in the pack to store it, then next time you run the car, tray before the first charge, and go.

You CAn fit a LiPO in your car, no need to run out and get it now, but it will be a viable option when you want to do it. Get a decent balancing charge for the LiPO and you're all set.

Sorry if my first response put you off, I guess I've looked at things from the racer perspective for so long that I sometimes forget that most of us aren't actually racing...

Thanks I appreciate that alot.. i may have been a little overboard in my comments as well.. Life is hectic right now LOL... Anyway, to answer on thing.. My charger has settings for Lipo, Ni MH and Ni CD batteries... It is actually a good charger IMO...
So here is what i got.... Find a used discharge tray, charge batteries, run car till it slows, let it cool.. Charge again... After last run charge for about 15 minutes... I had been doing 10 minutes at 3.00 Amps after my first run....

One more thing guys.. i heard that since my batteries are 4600 mah I should charge them at 4.60 amps... Is this correct?
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Old 12-24-2008, 08:41 AM   #26
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I charge mine at 6 amps. 90% of my nihms, except for my enrg c cells, are over a year old. They are still aliving and kicking.
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Old 12-24-2008, 09:54 AM   #27
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K, thanks for the info..
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