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Old 06-07-2004, 11:27 PM   #541
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you know, I never liked micros and for that matter , didn't see the pt. in having one. But reading through this thread, I've made up my mind-- I'm getting one of these DAMN THINGS!!

THE XRAY M18 IS MINE!!!
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Old 06-08-2004, 01:14 AM   #542
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I think 5th scalers have the same view of 10th scalers..
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Old 06-08-2004, 03:15 AM   #543
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Quote:
Originally posted by JayBee
you know, I never liked micros and for that matter , didn't see the pt. in having one. But reading through this thread, I've made up my mind-- I'm getting one of these DAMN THINGS!!

THE XRAY M18 IS MINE!!!
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Old 06-09-2004, 08:24 AM   #544
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Quote:
Originally posted by Neil Rabara
Once on, how do you remove them without prying it off?
Hi guys,
Don't know if this has been sugested/posted here before but here's how I remove the wheels with a little tool I made.
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Old 06-09-2004, 08:25 AM   #545
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Just pull on the edge of the tire when the screw is pressed on the inner
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Old 06-09-2004, 08:25 AM   #546
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Last one.
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Old 06-09-2004, 11:27 AM   #547
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That's probably one of the easiest suggestions to remove those wheels that I have seen or heard of. Thanks for the idea!!!
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Old 06-10-2004, 10:11 PM   #548
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Default Finally, IT LIVES AGAIN!

I haven't run my M18 in months. I ordered the Power Pack and was happy with it for a time, but added a 6 cell pack and fried the esc. Bummer. In any case, I wasn't sure what esc to get, and really didn't have the funds for a really good micro one at the time.

Today I'm at the shop and they had a MC2300 for $35, so I picked it up. After cutting the wires off the esc and soldering the wired from the old xray esc, it worked just fine. Now I can use any motor and battery I can throw at it. It's a tight fit, but with some neat wiring, everything should fit.

Now to get a new motor (either a 280 or 300, not sure), motor mount (or blue chasis kit) and that Mazda6 body...
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Old 06-10-2004, 10:13 PM   #549
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Anybody know how the mamba brushless system is working...anybody here have one?
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Old 06-10-2004, 10:17 PM   #550
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A lot of cogging
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Old 06-10-2004, 10:19 PM   #551
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Not good I suppose?
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Old 06-10-2004, 10:20 PM   #552
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No, the cogging is not good but other than that I hear they are great
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Old 06-10-2004, 11:51 PM   #553
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Default WOW!!!

Quote:
Originally posted by oXYnary
Out of the box its pretty good on carpet. The only suspension tuning you might consider is the 2.5 degree toe in. The 6 degree caster might help depending on your driving style.

ESC: Well it sounds like you don't need reverse so this should open the field more. Any small esc for 1/10th would work including some of the LRP, KO-Propo, and Futuba lines (even Novaks higher end). There is only one forward micro size esc meant for minis other than those from a company called IPD (http://www.ipdracing.com), the r18. The Novak Spy is vastly overrated as many racers here will attest to.

Motor: Well your first official upgrade will be (when you buy the kit) a 300 size aluminum motor mount. Even if you stick with 180 size motor, at least having this will help keep the motor cooler as there is no airflow. I have had great luck on a 1/10th carpet (ozite) with just a plain jane 6v speed 300 (really 370 size motors). You can get tuned 300s that are faster, but wont last as long. The higher end 280's (MiniT size) are another choice. Someone keeps giving high praise to the ponies the Trinity Monster "Wild" version. The say its more powerful than the 300.

On the other hand, you could bypass both of these and get a Mamba 54 brushless setup. But this will be a larger initial investment. In the long run it would be cheaper as you wont have to worry about the motor wearing out as easily. Then though you face the pondering question if the class ever got big enough at your track, would they illegalize brushless?


Servo: 90% of the racers use the Hitec 81 series. In fact the powerpack servo is just a relabeled 81mg. If you go with the Hitec, get the 81s (plastic gears). Believe it or not its more durable in this situation than the MG. The MGs plastic insert for its main gear warps and you start to loose your center point easily. I also discovered recently one of GWS park servos has some killer specs (under .8 sec and with 40ounces at 4.8 volts). But finding a horn to fit it may be a problem. Which is another thing you will want to pick up with the kit. A micro RS4 servo saver kit. The xray doesn't include one, and one good brush with the wall could result in stripped gears. The new Mini t servo savers could potentially work also. But with that spring sticking out, I'm not sure it might not hit the front steering.

The real idea is look at the specs of a 81s as far as size, and find something in that same size if nothing else. Usually under "micro" servos. Since we are in on road you will want very fast response. So I wouldn't go above .14 for speed at 4.8volts.

Batteries: Bar none if your sticking to ni-mh.. Kans. Any 2/3 A cell listed at 1050mah is a KAN. You get around 15-20 minutes of runtime even with a speed 300 on these. Don't let the higher MAH packs fool you. They lack the voltage the Kan gives. Since you are doing 1/10th track, you should be able to go with a 6 cell setup. Though realize you will have to solder them inline versus side to side to fit. Unless you get Kan 650mah 2/3aa cells. These can fit side to side right in the chassis. They however lack the runtime, and will drop off further than the full size kans. If you plan to stick to 180 size motors this could be an option. Elsewise get the 2/3A.

With inline soldering, for best results you will need a hammerhead tip. This gentleman sells them for well sp-40 (and 80) irons. http://members.cox.net/charliewhite/

As far as sources, if you want to make your own packs with cells..
http://www.battlepack.com/loosecells.asp (take advantage of the free zapping!)
http://www.unitedrc.com/ (The URC 1050HR+)

If you want high quality premade packs
http://www.blindbatts.com (he also zaps them)
http://www.unitedrc.com/

If you want to go "all the way" and used matched packs
http://www.teampowerpush.com/catalog.html (The MiniT series are the same size and are red labeled Kans) - He also has some of the "factory" green labeled that he can sell if contacted.

*Yea, note I haven't listed Trinities MiniT matched. They aren't Kans and lack the punch and are over priced.

Tires: The stock tires are useless on carpet. You can probably get at least some rounds with them with traction compound. If you want to stick with rubbers, I have had decent luck with ratzas holes series tires Medium fronts and soft rears http://www.ratzas.net/ . Another option (haven't tried) is Medium HPI fronts, and their rear carpet tires (#4719).

With foams, you have a large selection. This will vary greatly. Some say TRC orange fronts with magenta rear. Intelligentsia is using Orion rear softs, and TRC Magenta up front. Others are using (and these are the cheapest BTW) Ellegi ELLJ03C 45 shore front, with ELLJ33B 40 shore rear.

I guess it more you will have to play around to see what works, Though most agree a harder compound up front to help from traction rolling.

Spare Parts: I haven't broken anything yet (knocks on wood). It really depends on how much driving experience you have. If your a little unsure, the only area I have seen broken (twice) is the front body posts breaking from the front bumper.

Option parts:
To summarize

Right when you buy the kit:
Aluminum Motor Mount
2.5 degree toe in rear links (or adjustable kit)
42 tooth spur if you decide to go with a 280 or 370. Along with this the lower tooth pinion kit.

Things that may help depending on your driving style:
6 degree caster blocks

Bling Bling helpers:
-Ball Diff (especially with foams to allow some slippage)
-One Way front for higher speed tracks (IE 1.10th)*You will have to buy the aluminum universals with this as Intel notes above.
-Upper stiff graphite deck (helps with consistency on carpet).

Other items:
-Hpi Micro Servo Saver
-Lead tape (has some from 1/10th?) as the car is really unbalanced with 6 cell 2/3a.
-Associated mini fan. You plug into your BEC.. I'd almost consider this a must for longer motor life
-Motor heatsink (a variety are offered depending on the size you choose). Look at some of the helicopter ones as alternatives.
Wow, thanks a lot oXYnary....I never expected to get everything I need to know through one post. I'd like to thank everyone else for their help as well.

I do have a question, though. How well do six-cell packs fit onto the stock chassis? And if I get an after-market chassis, should I go with the Xray chassis or something else? I've heard about the IPD, but there's a couple of them I think. And last, is an aftermarket chassis worth it?

Also, where can I find more information on and/or purchase the Ellegi foams?

For the esc, the IPD looks great (small size, good specs), but it doesn't seem to be in stock. Would the Spy work just as well, if not better?

And last, I would like to thank you for all the help so far.
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Old 06-11-2004, 12:34 AM   #554
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A six cell stick pack in most cases is the same length and diameter of a five cell side by side.

I personally run an aftermarket chassis from www.eitsrc.com. I have noticed that neither the XRAY or IPD chassis include an upper deck. The XRAY chassis a great deal of torsional flex!! Not sure about the IPD but I would imagine that it will flex a bit as well since there is no upper deck. With this scale of car we need a bit of flex so that our cars don't drive like bricks. The EITS chassis is great because it can be run on both asphalt or carpet. They will also be offering upper decks of varying stiffness so that you can further tune your little car to the track.

The Ellegi foams can be purchased from Serpent USA. Additional foams are also available from Trinity and Team Orion.

As far as esc, the IPD is great as far as its size is concerned but in my opinion there lies all of the esc's greatness. I prefer to run smaller 1/10 esc's LRP Quantum, KO VFS 2000. These esc's work great in 1/10 cars and and the same can be said when they are used in 1/18 cars.

The Spy esc is pretty comparable to the R-18 except that the Spy has reverse. Again not a great esc but it is capable of doing its job.

Hope this helps.
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Old 06-11-2004, 05:02 AM   #555
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Quote:
deck. With this scale of car we need a bit of flex so that our cars don't drive like bricks.
RANT ON: If xray release real shocks and sway bars, we wouldnt have to rely on chassis flex.. But noooo, they want to finish their 1/8th scale ::END RANT

Doesnt the powell chassis come with a upper deck? I forget. There is that guy from germany selling upper decks separately on ebay. I have been tempted more than once. In honesty though, Im really looking to see how the Penguin chassis turns out.

The specs for the r18 are way higher than the spy (look at max amp output). But yea everyone raves about the LRPs.
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