Ko BMC Speedo

Old 03-02-2012, 07:46 AM
  #1276  
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V1.5 doesn't have a blinky mode, the blinky mode update was seperate to the V1.5 update. I sent my BMC to KO USA and had the firmware updated from 1.0 to 1.5 and at the same time had the ROAR Spec mode update done. It's been some time since I ran one but if I remember correctly the switch LED flashes when you are in a profile which has no timing advance set.
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:16 AM
  #1277  
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Originally Posted by Skitee View Post
V1.5 doesn't have a blinky mode, the blinky mode update was seperate to the V1.5 update. I sent my BMC to KO USA and had the firmware updated from 1.0 to 1.5 and at the same time had the ROAR Spec mode update done. It's been some time since I ran one but if I remember correctly the switch LED flashes when you are in a profile which has no timing advance set.
that is correct
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:39 AM
  #1278  
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Cool thanks for the advice. I sent and email to [email protected] about how to send mine in to get blinky put into mine. I'll see what they say about it.
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Old 08-18-2012, 12:51 PM
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Is this capable of running a 4 pole? Specifically the Trinity 4xs 3800? Anyone have any experience running this setup?

The amp ratings make it seem definitely possible, but i am not sure how much i believe them.
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Old 10-12-2012, 10:13 PM
  #1280  
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What's up with KO? Is Robert Morris still there? I sent an ESC in almost three weeks ago, have not heard anything, sent RM an email three days ago still no response?
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Old 10-13-2012, 04:42 AM
  #1281  
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Robert is usually tied up with the iic race this time of year. Try him again.
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Old 11-28-2012, 10:46 PM
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Hi guys, I'm hoping that someone here can help me out. I've got two Team Orion Vortex ESC's (ORI65007) here still new in the box. I've been out of RC for a while now and am trying to get going again (without buying entirely new equipment). I am just wondering if they require a firmware update to bring them up to today's spec. I've seen a USB adaptor/Program Card for other ESC's, is there one for these speedos? and does anyone have a part number? I only ask here because they have KO PROPO on the box so I assume it's similar to KO speedos.

Thanks
Daniel
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Old 06-29-2013, 08:21 AM
  #1283  
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Having trouble getting the ICS USB to work on W7 Home Premium to programme the Orion KO BMC esc. USB is seen by PC but load drivers and can't find suitable on the internet.

PC is a 64 bit system

update
Just read back a few pages. Think I'll try admin mode

Last edited by CFR; 06-29-2013 at 10:02 AM.
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Old 11-03-2015, 09:46 AM
  #1284  
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Good heavens...has it really been almost two and a half years since ANYONE posted about these awesome esc's?

I've only run them on pan cars, about to install one on a TC6.1 to run VTA at the upcoming Midwest Indoor Champs and would like to install the heat sink. What should I use to attach the heat sink? It seems like double-sided tape would insulate, not what we'd want.

Suggestions?

Scottrik
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Old 11-03-2015, 10:48 AM
  #1285  
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Good heavens...has it really been almost two and a half years since ANYONE posted about these awesome esc's?

I've only run them on pan cars, about to install one on a TC6.1 to run VTA at the upcoming Midwest Indoor Champs and would like to install the heat sink. What should I use to attach the heat sink? It seems like double-sided tape would insulate, not what we'd want.

Suggestions?

Scottrik
Hi Scott, so you run one in pan 1S? Are you using a booster?

As far as a heat sink, I've run this speed control recently in TC 17.5 stock without heat issues, so I would think in VTA its not needed. If you where to run it, I think heat paste would be better than the tape they used to supply as I don't think the heat transfer is that effecient using the tape.

I also would look at running a set of caps on the speed control.
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Old 11-03-2015, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Hi Scott, so you run one in pan 1S? Are you using a booster?
The esc WILL power the receiver and servo down to as low as the battery gets in a race but the servo speed slows throughout the race. I have run the inexpensive HobbyKing voltage boosters on these for several years now (almost six years!) with excellent results.

Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
As far as a heat sink, I've run this speed control recently in TC 17.5 stock without heat issues, so I would think in VTA its not needed. If you where to run it, I think heat paste would be better than the tape they used to supply as I don't think the heat transfer is that effecient using the tape.
I am familiar with the clay-like "potting compound" that works fine if the heat sink is somehow fastened, but it would not hold the heat sink on adequately on it's own. Is this "heat paste" adhesive in nature or is it this clay-like compound I describe?

VTA is tuned a bit differently than I recall TC being (though I have not actually raced TC in the brushless era so who knows...). We gear the car pretty much as high as we can keeping the motor below 160 degrees with fans, etc. Especially on a "fast" track that they tend to run at big events, mostly sweepers with few real hard "acceleration events". In the past I've run esc's with integral heat sinks, I was just concerned that the BMC doesn't have one (though I have three of the KO heat sinks and two of the fans floating about in my workshop).

Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
I also would look at running a set of caps on the speed control.
I've been running the KO "double barrel" capacitors for several years as well on the single-cell applications. Unfortunately I don't have a spare one. Do you have a cap set you would recommend?

Many thanks for your helpful responses!

Scottrik
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Old 11-03-2015, 02:31 PM
  #1287  
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
The esc WILL power the receiver and servo down to as low as the battery gets in a race but the servo speed slows throughout the race. I have run the inexpensive HobbyKing voltage boosters on these for several years now (almost six years!) with excellent results.



I am familiar with the clay-like "potting compound" that works fine if the heat sink is somehow fastened, but it would not hold the heat sink on adequately on it's own. Is this "heat paste" adhesive in nature or is it this clay-like compound I describe?

VTA is tuned a bit differently than I recall TC being (though I have not actually raced TC in the brushless era so who knows...). We gear the car pretty much as high as we can keeping the motor below 160 degrees with fans, etc. Especially on a "fast" track that they tend to run at big events, mostly sweepers with few real hard "acceleration events". In the past I've run esc's with integral heat sinks, I was just concerned that the BMC doesn't have one (though I have three of the KO heat sinks and two of the fans floating about in my workshop).



I've been running the KO "double barrel" capacitors for several years as well on the single-cell applications. Unfortunately I don't have a spare one. Do you have a cap set you would recommend?

Many thanks for your helpful responses!

Scottrik
Darn, about the booster, was trying to keep it cleaner with out the extra components.

I'm not sure if the "paste" is a more permanent attachment, probably need something like a heat transfer tape, if such a thing exists.

I used a ORCA 3 cap setup which quite well, but I think any of the ones available will work.

I'm not sure if VTA would generate more heat than a normal 17.5 TC, never really checked.

Its a good speed control for that type of racing though, good punch.
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Old 11-05-2015, 08:43 AM
  #1288  
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Gary, what the hell are we doing on this thread! It's dusty and full of cobwebs in here, reminds me of your garage!

Now I know why you were so fast in Saskatoon, running your KO!!!

I've still got a couple of these in the "spares" bag, it was a great ESC. It's been a few years, but I think I ran it in my VTA (CTA in WCICS) car, and it ran great.

Arctic Silver is one of the better heat transfer compounds available from computer shops, and yes it's pretty tacky when cold (it's designed not to get runny when warm for obvious reasons). What I did, if I remember back that far, was 2 narrow strips of double sided tape along the outside edges of the heatsink, then the paste in the middle. The heat sink doesn't really weigh that much, so the 2 strips are lots, and then you get the good cooling.

But for CTA, I didn't need it, the motor was drawing such little current that the speedo doesn't get that warm at all. And the KO was such an overbuilt beast to begin with, lots of internal mass to distribute the heat to.

Have fun!

Josh
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Old 11-05-2015, 10:14 AM
  #1289  
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Originally Posted by IronRing Racing View Post
Arctic Silver is one of the better heat transfer compounds available from computer shops, and yes it's pretty tacky when cold (it's designed not to get runny when warm for obvious reasons). What I did, if I remember back that far, was 2 narrow strips of double sided tape along the outside edges of the heatsink, then the paste in the middle. The heat sink doesn't really weigh that much, so the 2 strips are lots, and then you get the good cooling.
Josh
Hey Josh, thats a great idea for heat sink mounting. Its still a competitive speed control, over built, but good.
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Old 11-05-2015, 07:06 PM
  #1290  
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Default Heat sink mounting

I was thinking along the lines of the heat transfer grease as well, but instead i would put the heat sink with grease flush onto the speedo and use just a tiny bit of shoe goo on 2 sides of the heat sink to hold it on. The shoe goo would peel off when and if you want to take the heat sink off.

One of the speedos, thinking LRP, always came with a thin double sided heat transfer tape intended to mount the heat sink. Have used it before and it definitely won't come off, but was unable to locate product when I searched.
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