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Old 11-14-2009, 04:00 PM   #796
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Hi.
I'm interested of this ESC to replace my old LRP one. I drive only TC Mod with Lipos.
Is the ICS setting box released allready? Or is it only possible to tune this ESC with PC ICS USB set (or old cable with serial port)?
There was a setting box for the old brushed esc, which doesn't work with the BL one.
I found one ICS Multi Setting Adapter (KO-61006) on sale, but I think it is for the old brushed one.

Also I'm wondering how to update Orion V1.0 version in the Europe, because there are a lot of new v1.0 ESCs on the market with low price. Very tempting to buy one...
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Old 11-14-2009, 08:43 PM   #797
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I'm starting to investigate this speedo. Coming from a Tekin.
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Old 11-15-2009, 08:20 PM   #798
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I am so frustrated with this speed control.

I bought this KO BMC Ver1.5 three months ago. Since I am run mostly TC modify brushless 4T and stock 11.5T, and I donít want to risk any chance of overheating the system, so I ordered the heat sink, fan, and the ICS, and I waited 2 months for the heat sink and fan, but not the ICS. Fortunately, last week, a friend of mine was going to Japan, so I ask him to buy me the ICS.

On last Sat night, finally, with everything on hand, I tried it with my newly built Xray T3 with a LRP X12 and it was fine. After 2 runs, I started playing with the ICS, I changed some setting in the sliders looking for more punch, throttle step 1-8, I increased/raise each of them by 5. After another run I increased the setting in the natural brake.

Then I had a run with my other TC (T2 009 / LRP SXX TC Spec / Profile 6). Done that and came back and continue working on my BMC and wanted to increase the natural brake. I connected the BMC with the adaptor, and connect the USB to my laptop, start the software (BMC Manager for stock motor), and then turn on the BMC. There comes a high frequency noise and then I smell burn. I instantly turn off the BMC and I thought I must have damaged the motor. I really donít know what I did wrong in the connection.

But NO~! I found out it was the BMC that burned. Now, both the LED light on the switch and the fan are still working. The steering servo is still working, but no throttle. I tried setup the BMC twice but still no throttle but the LED was working properly.

I waited 3 months for all the accessories and on the first day, it failed on me~! Anyway, knowing that chances are minimal, I still hope there is MAGIC that I can try to fix it so I can use the advance timing on the BMC for the STOCK race on Wed night? Or I must send it back to KO Japan for repair? Will they take care of it?

P.S. I know that advanced timing for modify is limited to 2. I never increase the advanced timing, it was set at ZERO for the whole night.
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Old 11-17-2009, 12:09 PM   #799
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For anyone on the fence about this esc let me tell you it is a beast!!! Definitely has tons of power!
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Old 11-17-2009, 12:17 PM   #800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awth View Post
I am so frustrated with this speed control.

I bought this KO BMC Ver1.5 three months ago. Since I am run mostly TC modify brushless 4T and stock 11.5T, and I donít want to risk any chance of overheating the system, so I ordered the heat sink, fan, and the ICS, and I waited 2 months for the heat sink and fan, but not the ICS. Fortunately, last week, a friend of mine was going to Japan, so I ask him to buy me the ICS.

On last Sat night, finally, with everything on hand, I tried it with my newly built Xray T3 with a LRP X12 and it was fine. After 2 runs, I started playing with the ICS, I changed some setting in the sliders looking for more punch, throttle step 1-8, I increased/raise each of them by 5. After another run I increased the setting in the natural brake.

Then I had a run with my other TC (T2 009 / LRP SXX TC Spec / Profile 6). Done that and came back and continue working on my BMC and wanted to increase the natural brake. I connected the BMC with the adaptor, and connect the USB to my laptop, start the software (BMC Manager for stock motor), and then turn on the BMC. There comes a high frequency noise and then I smell burn. I instantly turn off the BMC and I thought I must have damaged the motor. I really donít know what I did wrong in the connection.

But NO~! I found out it was the BMC that burned. Now, both the LED light on the switch and the fan are still working. The steering servo is still working, but no throttle. I tried setup the BMC twice but still no throttle but the LED was working properly.

I waited 3 months for all the accessories and on the first day, it failed on me~! Anyway, knowing that chances are minimal, I still hope there is MAGIC that I can try to fix it so I can use the advance timing on the BMC for the STOCK race on Wed night? Or I must send it back to KO Japan for repair? Will they take care of it?

P.S. I know that advanced timing for modify is limited to 2. I never increase the advanced timing, it was set at ZERO for the whole night.
Let me get this right.... You turned the BMC "on" with a battery connected to it? AND had the reciever 3wire hooked to the USB at the same time and then it "poofed"? Is that correct?
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Old 11-17-2009, 12:22 PM   #801
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Sounds that way...not good if so. Anyone have a ballpark for gearing with a 13.5 for tc on a 90ft str8t.
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Old 11-17-2009, 06:56 PM   #802
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Let me get this right.... You turned the BMC "on" with a battery connected to it? AND had the reciever 3wire hooked to the USB at the same time and then it "poofed"? Is that correct?
I did it the same way as I did before, I turn on the BMC after I made all the connection.

1. BMC to the adaptor (USB)
2. adaptor (USB) to the computer
3. start the software on my laptop
4. connect the Lipo battery and turn on the BMC

Don't get me wrong, I love this speedo, it has a lot of punch and feel very smooth. The advance timing definitely helps in stock racing. I am just frustrated with it because I can't use it for the stock race tonight. I have to use my LRP SXX TC SPEC tonight and I expect to be the slowest in the straight way. SIGH~!
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Old 11-17-2009, 08:30 PM   #803
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Originally Posted by awth View Post
I did it the same way as I did before, I turn on the BMC after I made all the connection.

1. BMC to the adaptor (USB)
2. adaptor (USB) to the computer
3. start the software on my laptop
4. connect the Lipo battery and turn on the BMC

Don't get me wrong, I love this speedo, it has a lot of punch and feel very smooth. The advance timing definitely helps in stock racing. I am just frustrated with it because I can't use it for the stock race tonight. I have to use my LRP SXX TC SPEC tonight and I expect to be the slowest in the straight way. SIGH~!
Thats why it burned. You don't need the battery hooked up with the USB with the 3 wire as it provides it's own power from the computer.
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Old 11-17-2009, 08:42 PM   #804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racecrafter View Post
Thats why it burned. You don't need the battery hooked up with the USB with the 3 wire as it provides it's own power from the computer.
if he is not using a usb 2.0 then he needs too power up the speedo this is done using the y harness and a 6.0 v power souurce
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Old 11-17-2009, 11:17 PM   #805
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I was using my friend's laptop, he said it is a USB 2.0. But when I connect the USB, there is no LED signal on the switch. That's why I connect the LIPO battery and switched on the BMC......

Anyway, I sent it in to KO Japan already, hope it will come back sooner~! Thanks all.
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Old 11-18-2009, 07:10 AM   #806
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Alan,

I don't understand if all the connections are correct, it should not burn even though you connect it to the lipo as I did it before and it turns out to be ok. Perhaps wrong connection between the esc 3wires to the ICS?

Anyway, if you have sent it to KO Japan ur in good hands. I dealt with KO Japan for the past few months 3 times (KO BMC, Brushed ESC, 2.4 module up grades and repairs) all are dealt speedily and professionally. Hence, KO is my most preferred brand. If your BMC is v1.0, make sure upgrade it to v1.5!

We're using KO BMC v1.5 for stock motor and it's definitely the best ESC around (provided if you know how to play with the setting!) and SXX with MOD motors. Perhaps you could consider the options.

Gd luck
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Old 11-18-2009, 10:23 PM   #807
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Any suggestions for TC 17.5 rubber using a DUO motor? Getting killed by the new Tekin software on the stretch. Running a 4.0 FDR currently. Some people said to use 3.5, but what I had to do in 13.5 was gear down from a 4.8 to 5.5 to stay below 160F. Does the same apply to 17.5? Need to prove a point to the guys telling me "just move over to Tekin and you can keep up with us"
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Old 11-18-2009, 10:58 PM   #808
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbones View Post
Any suggestions for TC 17.5 rubber using a DUO motor? Getting killed by the new Tekin software on the stretch. Running a 4.0 FDR currently. Some people said to use 3.5, but what I had to do in 13.5 was gear down from a 4.8 to 5.5 to stay below 160F. Does the same apply to 17.5? Need to prove a point to the guys telling me "just move over to Tekin and you can keep up with us"
I have been running this with a 17.5 Duo 2. I have been running around 4.9 and can almost keep up on a long straight, about 175' but it is a good bit quicker through the infield. If you have the usb adapter load Drew's profile from the KO site, then set the brake setting to suit you. Hope this helps.
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Old 11-19-2009, 10:40 AM   #809
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Originally Posted by redbones View Post
Any suggestions for TC 17.5 rubber using a DUO motor? Getting killed by the new Tekin software on the stretch. Running a 4.0 FDR currently. Some people said to use 3.5, but what I had to do in 13.5 was gear down from a 4.8 to 5.5 to stay below 160F. Does the same apply to 17.5? Need to prove a point to the guys telling me "just move over to Tekin and you can keep up with us"
what timing hole do you have on the Duo? also a motor CAN overheat if its not geared high enough.

trying timing 5 on the BMC, FDR of 3.7 (if you're scared to use 3.5) and use the middle timing hole. if you like those settings.. try FDR of 3.5 and timing 6.
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Old 11-19-2009, 11:02 AM   #810
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbones View Post
Any suggestions for TC 17.5 rubber using a DUO motor? Getting killed by the new Tekin software on the stretch. Running a 4.0 FDR currently. Some people said to use 3.5, but what I had to do in 13.5 was gear down from a 4.8 to 5.5 to stay below 160F. Does the same apply to 17.5? Need to prove a point to the guys telling me "just move over to Tekin and you can keep up with us"
All the info given is correct just make sure you have the newest stock manager that takes the timing to 6....hope this all helps!
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