tc5 roll center and camber link relation question
#1
tc5 roll center and camber link relation question
im trying to lower my roll center - one of the things im doing to get rid of traction roll. trying to get less traction<---is this correct?
when i read the tc5 manual about camber location and compare the tc5 setup sheets--what the tc5 manual suggest is to raise where the camber link mounts on the shock tower to achieve a lower roll center? the manual also says raising the roll center will decrease grip--thought it was the other way around?
the carpet setup sheets on rc10 suggests a lower camber link location. the info in the manual and setup sheets conflicts?
when i read the tc5 manual about camber location and compare the tc5 setup sheets--what the tc5 manual suggest is to raise where the camber link mounts on the shock tower to achieve a lower roll center? the manual also says raising the roll center will decrease grip--thought it was the other way around?
the carpet setup sheets on rc10 suggests a lower camber link location. the info in the manual and setup sheets conflicts?
#3
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Lowering your roll center will make the car roll more. Hence more traction.
If you are using say, #2 blocks on your a arms then goto #3, that will take traction away. I have been running the b hole on the tc5 for a few now and really like it. No traction rolls and it still hooks up on the light traction tracks.
HTH
DK
If you are using say, #2 blocks on your a arms then goto #3, that will take traction away. I have been running the b hole on the tc5 for a few now and really like it. No traction rolls and it still hooks up on the light traction tracks.
HTH
DK
#4
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#5
are you guys sure about this? bc it doesnt sound right.
#6
Yes this is right.
If you're running rubber on carpet and are experiencing traction roll, you can also put a layer of glue on the sidewalls of your front tyres.
If you're running rubber on carpet and are experiencing traction roll, you can also put a layer of glue on the sidewalls of your front tyres.
#7
Moving the inner camber link upwards should bring the upper control arm closer to being parallel to the lower control arm. If that is the case, this should move the roll center (black dot) downward because the instant centers (red & blue dots) have been moved further outwards.
Moving the roll center down should bring it further away from the center of mass of the vehicle. If this is the case, the chassis's tendancy to roll should then be increased...
Moving the roll center down should bring it further away from the center of mass of the vehicle. If this is the case, the chassis's tendancy to roll should then be increased...
#8
thank you--ill move my camber links back up a notch
#9
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
Also consider that hinge pin height is a far larger adjustment to roll center than camber links. Some people also consider camber links more important to camber curve than roll center. You do affect roll center with the links, but the hinge pin height will be more noticeable.
#10
Also consider that hinge pin height is a far larger adjustment to roll center than camber links. Some people also consider camber links more important to camber curve than roll center. You do affect roll center with the links, but the hinge pin height will be more noticeable.
#11
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
That is lowering your roll center and making the car want to roll more. In high traction you want to take tracion away to keep the car flat in the turns.
Couple things you can try to get rid of the traction roll.
Move your hinge pins up, #1 to #2
add more camber (from 1deg to 2deg)
Harder tire up front, if it cant dig in it cant roll the car over.
turn your dual rate down, again if the front tire cant dig in it cant roll the car over.
stiffer oil/spring. transfers less weight
sway bars, again flatens the car in the turns.
Any or all should help with your traction rolling problem.
Let us know what you found out.
DK
Couple things you can try to get rid of the traction roll.
Move your hinge pins up, #1 to #2
add more camber (from 1deg to 2deg)
Harder tire up front, if it cant dig in it cant roll the car over.
turn your dual rate down, again if the front tire cant dig in it cant roll the car over.
stiffer oil/spring. transfers less weight
sway bars, again flatens the car in the turns.
Any or all should help with your traction rolling problem.
Let us know what you found out.
DK
#12
That is lowering your roll center and making the car want to roll more. In high traction you want to take tracion away to keep the car flat in the turns.
Couple things you can try to get rid of the traction roll.
Move your hinge pins up, #1 to #2
add more camber (from 1deg to 2deg)
Harder tire up front, if it cant dig in it cant roll the car over.
turn your dual rate down, again if the front tire cant dig in it cant roll the car over.
stiffer oil/spring. transfers less weight
sway bars, again flatens the car in the turns.
Any or all should help with your traction rolling problem.
Let us know what you found out.
DK
Couple things you can try to get rid of the traction roll.
Move your hinge pins up, #1 to #2
add more camber (from 1deg to 2deg)
Harder tire up front, if it cant dig in it cant roll the car over.
turn your dual rate down, again if the front tire cant dig in it cant roll the car over.
stiffer oil/spring. transfers less weight
sway bars, again flatens the car in the turns.
Any or all should help with your traction rolling problem.
Let us know what you found out.
DK
#13
An interesting note: I also found that camber makes a difference as well. The following picture illustrates the difference in roll center when going from 0* camber, to -3*. I found that adjusting camber has an effect on every variable of roll center. It moves the tire contact patch, the upper arm angle, and even the lower arm angle (if ride height is maintained). All these alterations add up to a rather minor change in roll center (even less than adjusting inner camber link height), but it is a change none the less:
#14
thanks 94eg! awesome info!
#15
Well since I've already done the drawing I figured I'd share this one too:
This illustrates that 630% difference I spoke of. For this same hypothetical suspension, both the inside mounting points for the upper & lower control arms have been moved upwards equal amounts (red=before & green=after). As you can see the subsequent change in RC is very different from one to the other (and in opposite directions)...
This illustrates that 630% difference I spoke of. For this same hypothetical suspension, both the inside mounting points for the upper & lower control arms have been moved upwards equal amounts (red=before & green=after). As you can see the subsequent change in RC is very different from one to the other (and in opposite directions)...