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Old 10-10-2003, 02:06 PM   #16
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Because thats what you do A real light cut just after break in, then one more 20-30 second seat run, will produce the best#s on the dyno, therefor the best #s on the track. This is a bit exessive for me, what I do is just break my brushes in on the UNcut comm. Once my break in is done, then I do a light cut/20 second seat, and you are ready to go! I dont think there is much advantage to cutting BEFORE you do a break in.
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Old 10-10-2003, 02:23 PM   #17
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i've been racing for 14 years and have main the a main twice at a national and number of b and c mains i have putnum, or troy from phantom build motors for me and i have never ever seen them or anyone one cut a motor after break in. trust me you guys are doing it wrong who ever is telling you to do this is wrong i promise you.
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Old 10-10-2003, 02:24 PM   #18
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dyno#s dont lie my friend Nobody said it wasn't excessive...
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Old 10-10-2003, 02:31 PM   #19
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the best way to prepare a motor after you alighn the brush hods and work on the bushings is find the brushes that work on what ever motor your running.
cut the com.
applly a couple drops of comm drops.
( i prefer dry break in)
run the motor at 2 volts for 300 seconds.
if you used juice spray the motor down(dont touch the brush or unseat them)
reoil the bushings or bearings.
let the motor airout so that the motor cleaner dissapates.
install the motor and go.

there no reason too unseat the brushes and recut all your doing is changing the contact patch all over again trust me do not recut. it is useless and your taking away the life of the motor.
i guarantee you a dyno competition that if you build the motors your way and i build mine as i do my motors will make more power . i race fro a motor and batt company and have raced for other companies they pretty much ALL DO THIER MOTORS THE SAME !
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Old 10-10-2003, 03:37 PM   #20
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back to the original question, the gm3 and p2k2 are not torque motors they are more rpm motors, while the p2k2 doesn't have the rpm of the green machine or the monster stock it also doesn't have the torque of a p2k. i have run a p2k2 in a off road buggy but it requires that you use a larger spur gear and a small pinion, don't remember the number but i switched from the red spur to the green spur on a xxx, and dropped 2 teeth on the pinion, think it was a 19 or 20. if your trying to run the p2k2 in a truck, good luck, i wasn't able to make it work.
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Old 10-10-2003, 04:12 PM   #21
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in the origional question richie losi dude said that he was cutting the motor again after breaking in the new brushes and I was answering him by saying you are not suppose to be cutting the motor after seating the brushes. i guess to you that wasnt part of the subject!
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Old 10-10-2003, 04:31 PM   #22
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The dyno doesnt mean squat if you cant make the numbers work to your advantage. The track is the best dyno. I also go off the temperature of the motor when I am done running to see if I am over or undergeared.
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Old 10-10-2003, 06:25 PM   #23
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he also said that he wasn't getting any punch etc etc
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Old 10-10-2003, 06:41 PM   #24
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Guys;

Most Motors out there are just plain average, a few above average and a few below.
I also have a P2K2 that is slow and nothing I've done to it makes it any better. (even with good brushes)
My Monster Stocks are my best Motors by far, but even they vary in Power quite a bit from sample to sample after tuning.

Los1Fan;

I couldn't get my EPIC Motors to make decent power until I switched over to Putnam Brushes. I recently rebuilt one with Trinity #4503's and it was a Dog. Put Putnams back in and Power again.
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Old 10-10-2003, 07:58 PM   #25
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Is there any chance you have the motor geared wrong? If the motor is way undegeared or way overgeared, it will lack punch. You may want to play around with your gearing and see if that helps.
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Old 10-10-2003, 08:21 PM   #26
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ok..wow..thats a lot of replys....

anyhows here goes...i know the p2k2's are not as fast as the GM3's and monsters BUT...the thing is i can't get it to run close to when i bought...and re-cutting the comm does make a diffrence in power...and it made my motor last longer with less comm wear...anyways..i'm still not getting any power...i went to my local off-road track here's what i did...

1st run
Associated T4...84 spur...17, 18, 19 pinion...
p2k2 motor...
cut the comm...
new brushes and springs...(trinity 4499, red and green spring...tweked a little for tension)
break it in...
put it back to gether....and ran it dry....on the 17 pinion..it ran cold after 5 minutes...on 18 pinion it ran warm in 19 it was blazing hot....i rest the motor every run to cool it down....no improvement...

2nd run
same truck
GM3 motor...
same procedure on the re-build...
17 pinion it ran warm...i did feel a bit of torque increase...i put 18 pinion and the motor ran hot..i stopped there....

i even ask this one guy to re-build my motor..he's one of the fastest driver in our track..he spends his time building his motor then practice at least once and win the damn race...anyways...it's still the same slow motor....

i conclude that the motor is prolly bad...i didn't check arm balance and how packed the windings are...so i guess im off to the LHS tommmorrow for new motors....

new question..what stock motor is good for off-road stock and on-road stock....need torque...rpm is not an issue here since the track is small....thnx for all the advice...
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Old 10-11-2003, 12:36 AM   #27
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as posted above these do not make good truck motors
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Old 10-11-2003, 07:34 AM   #28
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In stock TC class, we have the best luck with P2k2 and Monster Stock motors at our local track. The GM3 is a motor that I have never personally had any luck with in stock TC class, but I have seen a couple guys do very well with them. In stock truck class, a lot of guys around here run P2k and P2k2 motors with good results. In all honesty, any EPIC stock motor should be able to do quite well with the proper tuning.

It is possible that the motor you bought was just a real dud. I have come across a couple stock motors that just felt like dogs no matter what tuning tricks I tried.
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Old 10-11-2003, 07:36 AM   #29
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I was really wondering why he was recutting the comm after seating the brushes... Even if you just skim the com, you are still changing the diameter after the brushes have seated to the diameter of the comm prior to the cut...

If you think if it, the best way to seat brushes would be by using a slave motor to drive the one you are breaking in... No worry about arcing during the break in...
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Old 10-11-2003, 07:42 AM   #30
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This is true, many people use a cordless drill or a dremel with a slow variable rpm rate.
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