Manu_05'

FFG dampening ? Take a pic to show us 😉

OVA

iTrader: (86)

what bodies shell were you running in SS?

Jamison R

iTrader: (66)

Its to stop FFG from moving in excess. I saw something similar at snowbirds. I was told if you have the bearing or FFG1.1 you don't need it. If you have the plastic tab then this helps. The body posts are overdoing it imo

johnsonthai

Lw Mazda6

SLOWINSLOWOUT

iTrader: (20)

I would like to flip my dampers and run asymmetric for a bumpy track, just wanted to confirm the proper location for this.

LF=R6
RF=L6
LR=L6
RR=R6

Correct?

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

for asymmetric that is right. you do the opposite for reverse asymmetric

SLOWINSLOWOUT

iTrader: (20)

Thanks, I did figure it out, I could not remember how it was as per the manual, then I looked at the manual, LOL.

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

and for asym you must install set screws .... just as the manual says . its easier to do that when the shocks are out of the car. otherwise you might have to loosen up the arm near the end of the chassis.

SLOWINSLOWOUT

iTrader: (20)

Done and done.

I'm going to try a hybrid set-up, a combo of Jake's and Josh's. Been pretty much running Josh's set-up on my L, works really well, car is fast, carries great corner speed, but is a bit unpredictable on a bumpy track. Plus, our traction levels are mid at best, so firmed up the suspension as per Jake's set-up, with reverse asym. See how it goes.

Magnet Top

iTrader: (4)

Try using significantly less static camber than what my setup says. Generally, I think I've been using too much. Also (rear) bump toe can be evil on bumpy tracks if you over use it.

Jake

SLOWINSLOWOUT

iTrader: (20)

Thanks for the advice Jake.

I have also found rear bump toe to be evil for me, I don't like how it causes the car to rotate on corner exit on power, I tend to do better with a car that has a bit of on power push from the apex out.

Will try running less camber as well, see how that reacts.

For the most part, the car is fantastic, I can keep it on pace with the fast guys at club races, and some of these guys were in the A with you at Victoria. Just gotta figure out why I suck soooo much when I go to the big races, LOL.

RC Professor

iTrader: (17)

I've found 2 things that help with diff leaking -

1. Replace the stock o-rings with some silicone P4 o-rings. I use the Kyosho P4 silicone o-rings sold at A main hobbies, but I think any P4 silicone will work.

2. Use blue loctite on the two set screws that screw into each ST31 part.

bornox

iTrader: (32)

whats the difference between short and long linkage. the big problem is how to set it for long and short. need help pls.

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

If you are talking about camber links, the kit turnbuckles are for long links, and you need optional ones for short liklinks. I like the lunsford 1-1/8 inch long ones awesomatix usa sells

bornox

iTrader: (32)

are there any difference?