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Old 10-29-2017, 02:09 PM   #9556
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If it also helps, the concrete surface is as smooth as glass.
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Old 10-30-2017, 05:29 AM   #9557
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Hey people,

Does anyone have a favourite set up they could recommend me?

The track I'm racing at for the next little while is a 36'x100', sweeper onto the straight and a sweeper off the straight, technical in the infield. Its on Crc Black Carpet

One10 Raceway, it pops up on google, if anyone would like to see the exact layout.
Hi,

We just got a black carpet at my club so I don't have a lot of experience on that kind of grip but I can show you a direction to take.

First we need to know a little more about the class you are running and which version of the A700 you have. Is it a L or a EVO. Which chassis and shock version (#6 non-rebuildable or the newer ones).

Go see the links below. Don't say that to other team drivers but habitually Mike Gee setups are fast and easy to drive so it's a good starting point

Awesomatix USA: Set-up Sheets

Setup Sheet Data Base
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Old 10-30-2017, 05:19 PM   #9558
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Hi,

We just got a black carpet at my club so I don't have a lot of experience on that kind of grip but I can show you a direction to take.

First we need to know a little more about the class you are running and which version of the A700 you have. Is it a L or a EVO. Which chassis and shock version (#6 non-rebuildable or the newer ones).

Go see the links below. Don't say that to other team drivers but habitually Mike Gee setups are fast and easy to drive so it's a good starting point

Awesomatix USA: Set-up Sheets

Setup Sheet Data Base
Thanks,

My apologies, it's 17.5 stock, I'm 99% Sure it's the Evo, and it's got the "unicorn" RaceBerry chassis, with the #6 non-rebuildable dampers.

I forgot there are so many versions... I'm an Awesomatix virgin... lol
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Old 10-30-2017, 08:02 PM   #9559
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Thanks,

My apologies, it's 17.5 stock, I'm 99% Sure it's the Evo, and it's got the "unicorn" RaceBerry chassis, with the #6 non-rebuildable dampers.

I forgot there are so many versions... I'm an Awesomatix virgin... lol
Hi,

You may take a look at this setup...the generation of parts are probably closer to your stuff...
http://site.petitrc.com/reglages/awe....520141018.pdf

One thing that is good with this setup is that it seems to use the first generation of aluminum chassis...if I remember well the wheelbase are the same for the Raceberry. For sure you will need to play with flex your car at first sight seems to be more suited for asphalt. But that dosent mean that you wont have fun

Under the arms at first don't bother to grab AT21S (balls are 0.5mm lower) if you don't have them and it may worth to try to shim regular AT21 balls 0.5mm.

Maybe try it as is or as close to that at first to have a feel for the car.

After that you may test a few of these things...

You may want to add some shim under the front and rear hubs (you probably have AM06S hubs) to make the car wider especially on black carpet. Don't go to crazy on that maybe between 0.5mm to 1mm and think to reduce the shimming at the top of the hub to keep the amount of camber gain similar. Don't forget to check if the bumpsteer stay the same at the front and at the back. Maybe a good idea to play with wheel spacer also at the front.

Keep in mind that the shim under the balls of the rear steering arms adjust the rear active toe/bumpsteer or whatever you want to call it. Verify at first that under compression the rear toe dosent change. Adjust the amount of shimming accordingly if you want more or no toe change at all. Even on carpet I generally like about 0.5 more toe in under compression.

With a wheelbase as long as that you may also try to play with the rear wheelbase by reducing rear caster a little bit maybe try 2 long or 0. Don't forget to check the rear active toe after your change.

When looking on older setups (2013-2015) keep in mind also that some people where running different ballcups...some where sitting 0.7mm higher than others. So it may be a good idea to play a little bit with shimming under the top arms if the car roll too much before playing with swaybars...

For the rest don't go crazy on option parts

Other people may chime in if I give you wrong directions or have a few things to make you try.

A picture or two of your car may give us a better idea of the generation of parts you have.

Good luck!
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Old 10-31-2017, 10:50 AM   #9560
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Hi,

You may take a look at this setup...the generation of parts are probably closer to your stuff...
http://site.petitrc.com/reglages/awe....520141018.pdf

One thing that is good with this setup is that it seems to use the first generation of aluminum chassis...if I remember well the wheelbase are the same for the Raceberry. For sure you will need to play with flex your car at first sight seems to be more suited for asphalt. But that dosent mean that you wont have fun

Under the arms at first don't bother to grab AT21S (balls are 0.5mm lower) if you don't have them and it may worth to try to shim regular AT21 balls 0.5mm.

Maybe try it as is or as close to that at first to have a feel for the car.

After that you may test a few of these things...

You may want to add some shim under the front and rear hubs (you probably have AM06S hubs) to make the car wider especially on black carpet. Don't go to crazy on that maybe between 0.5mm to 1mm and think to reduce the shimming at the top of the hub to keep the amount of camber gain similar. Don't forget to check if the bumpsteer stay the same at the front and at the back. Maybe a good idea to play with wheel spacer also at the front.

Keep in mind that the shim under the balls of the rear steering arms adjust the rear active toe/bumpsteer or whatever you want to call it. Verify at first that under compression the rear toe dosent change. Adjust the amount of shimming accordingly if you want more or no toe change at all. Even on carpet I generally like about 0.5 more toe in under compression.

With a wheelbase as long as that you may also try to play with the rear wheelbase by reducing rear caster a little bit maybe try 2 long or 0. Don't forget to check the rear active toe after your change.

When looking on older setups (2013-2015) keep in mind also that some people where running different ballcups...some where sitting 0.7mm higher than others. So it may be a good idea to play a little bit with shimming under the top arms if the car roll too much before playing with swaybars...

For the rest don't go crazy on option parts

Other people may chime in if I give you wrong directions or have a few things to make you try.

A picture or two of your car may give us a better idea of the generation of parts you have.

Good luck!
Thanks again,

The car is mostly set up, for an 80×60 track with alot of bumps.

I drove the new track last week and found the set up to be okay once i stiffened the car up. The RaceBerry chassis doesnt have too much flex and drives incredibly smooth on black carpet.

I'm looking at set ups and noticing a few parts that aren't quite the same. My top deck and middle torsion bar being the biggest things. The torsion bar is solid Carbon with no places to add shims, and the top deck I do believe is c21.

The hubs I don't know what they are but... I'll ask the guy that ran it before myself.

All in all I will be at the track quite some time this coming week, so I Will be able to try and tweak as I please to see what works.

I will eventually be buying an A800x, so learning suspension geometry characteristics is the most important thing for me right now I think. Well, that and not hitting the boards as much.
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Old 11-04-2017, 06:40 AM   #9561
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So I have a 700l2 and despite its age I think it is a real good car, I will run it in vta and am looking at doing a refresh on it with the needed parts from the newer models both 700 and 800 series. I'm thinking of updating hubs, control arms and upper link mounts. It already has the better diff and dampeners.

Any recommendations?
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Old 11-04-2017, 08:05 AM   #9562
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Originally Posted by AlBundy View Post
So I have a 700l2 and despite its age I think it is a real good car, I will run it in vta and am looking at doing a refresh on it with the needed parts from the newer models both 700 and 800 series. I'm thinking of updating hubs, control arms and upper link mounts. It already has the better diff and dampeners.

Any recommendations?
I made a thicker rear sway bar out of 0.062" music wire. It helps free up the rear end, as the wider rear VTA tires tend to make the car push. The sway bar mounts needed the hole slightly enlarged to accept it.

Also, a front diff with light oil will reduce front tire scrub in long sweepers. I'm running 50K.
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Old 11-05-2017, 09:03 AM   #9563
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Hi,

Was finally able to do some testing yesterday and I take some time to play a little bit with the forward/rearward angle (longer/shorter steering arms) of the rear toe links...

I compare back to back on my 700 with RFG that give a big amount of rearward angle with AM23-1 and I see no notable difference on the track when the rear toe links are straight with AM14-1 and when they are angled. I make certain on each tests that the active toe amount was the same on the setup station.

That was easy to test because the "older" AM14-1 have a threaded hole that have the same position as the AM23-1.

I later removed the FFG/RFG on the car and put it back to "L" configuration and made the same tests. With the same results as before. With the "L" bulkhead and AM23-1 I have a small forward angle and a big forward angle with AM14-1.

With longer arms I feel the car a tad more stable in the rear. But on a blind test it will be very difficult to know which is which if you know what I mean

So to recap in one sentence...like Howard said you can feel less slope with longer arms...

With the amount of talent (or lack if you prefer) I will probably stick to what I was running because it is nicer lol
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Old 12-03-2017, 04:29 PM   #9564
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Default A700

Looking for some assistance:

I have the A700 (bought used) and it's time to replace some bearings. The photos of the front axle is different than the one I built which has front drives held in with screws. This one has none. Anyone familiar with how they are removed to get to bearings?
Awe-USA is out of stock on replacements.
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Old 12-03-2017, 04:48 PM   #9565
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Originally Posted by regets ama View Post
Looking for some assistance:

I have the A700 (bought used) and it's time to replace some bearings. The photos of the front axle is different than the one I built which has front drives held in with screws. This one has none. Anyone familiar with how they are removed to get to bearings?
Awe-USA is out of stock on replacements.
Hi,

Take two hex drivers and pass them true each of the outdrive opening and pull. It should take some force but not a lot.

For the remaining outdrive enter a 2mm hex driver inside the spool and tap sharply the handle of the hex driver on a hard surface. No need to apply excessive force. Hold the hole assembly firmly and the outdrive at the same time when doing this so it will not fly away.

Whatever the method you use don't apply force or use tools on the crown gear assembly...

Maybe someone have a better method but that was working for me...whatever I still have my eye and 9 fingers

If you don't have a lot of play on the outdrives this spool don't need to be upgraded to the latest revision it was working fine.

See you!
Alexandre
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Old 12-05-2017, 12:48 PM   #9566
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Thanks for the tip on the spool info. I did find the correct manual showing the assembly. Apparently there are locking rings inside which capture the outdrives. It's a matter of overcoming them in disassembly.
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Old 12-07-2017, 03:54 AM   #9567
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Hello at all
while I wait my 800X... one question wht difference between the LS1 and classic crank style on handling point of view?
Thanks
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Old 12-14-2017, 01:22 AM   #9568
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Picked a couple of these from a nice forum member recently and ran the A700 Evo 2 in 17.5T blinky GT at the inaugural Xpress Cup in Hong Kong.

I was planning on running my TB Exo 6 but there's a bend component in it and I couldn't get the part in time so switched over to the A700 with just an evening of practice on it.

It was my first race since my days when I was in school so took a while for me to figure what was going on and what I needed to do but managed to achieve B1 It was in a field of only 15 drivers but thought I'd put a quick note up here to say the A700 is still being raced!
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