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Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)

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Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)

Old 11-27-2015, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
Outdoors you should run a ltc-r. Can u fill the sheet in electronically so we can see the spring rate right?

Also, im shocked to see front end caster loss. We've only run that at huge tracks with mod motors.
With the Mazda body I run 12 degrees rear caster out (or back) to extend the wheelbase, with the LTC-R body I use the same set up but 0 rear caster.

I have attached a sheet done on the PC but I always get muddled with the camber links on the sheet as to what is on the car with the optional extra bits etc

I think I have it right

I have attached a pic of the car, different motor in, I have noticed a glaring error I have to adjust on the car see if you can see it too.
Attached Thumbnails Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)-img_3816.jpg   Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)-epson005.jpg  
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Old 11-27-2015, 05:25 PM
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12 degrees caster?????
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Old 11-27-2015, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by nexxus View Post
I have noticed a glaring error I have to adjust on the car see if you can see it too.
12 degrees caster or the birds nest of wires?
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Old 11-27-2015, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Xpress View Post
12 degrees caster or the birds nest of wires?
Don't think that's needed. I explained the rear caster (my reading is that it just affects wheelbase and nothing else) and the wires, well I prefer to have the set up done before I work on it being pretty.
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Old 11-27-2015, 06:56 PM
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It doesnt just affect wheelbase. It affects a ton of things.
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Old 11-27-2015, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by artwork View Post
It is mostly used to change wheelbase on the car... -4 would be a shorter wheel base!
I was working on the above post going back a year or two which indicated (to me anyway) that +12 caster gave me a longer wheel base, when the question was previously asked what effect rear caster had the discussion seemed to indicate it only impacted wheelbase.

But ok besides the caster issue, how's the rest look?
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Old 11-28-2015, 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by nexxus View Post
I was working on the above post going back a year or two which indicated (to me anyway) that +12 caster gave me a longer wheel base, when the question was previously asked what effect rear caster had the discussion seemed to indicate it only impacted wheelbase.

But ok besides the caster issue, how's the rest look?
Top links are on back to front.
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Old 11-29-2015, 05:08 PM
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Default Updated but this is doing my head in

Ok thanks for the feedback I have altered what I had and it does feel better but the back still feels stiffer than the front, I pulled the shock units out of the holder and the shaft feels noticably tighter than those on the front. Both are L6/R6 units but I can't see any reason for it.

How are we looking now?
Attached Thumbnails Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)-a700setup.jpg  
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Old 11-29-2015, 05:52 PM
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nexxus - the d2.0/d2.1 shocks were made on purpose to allow re-filling. this keeps them consistent over time. the d6 and d3 dampers could leak out. depending upon air / track temp, this occurred more if the track was super hot.
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Old 11-30-2015, 05:20 PM
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I have an A700L that I race in 17.5 TC stock on indoor carpet. I was wondering if there's any advantage in switching to an alloy chassis such as the C01AL-S2 or am I better off with the stock carbon chassis?
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Old 11-30-2015, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jdawg81 View Post
I have an A700L that I race in 17.5 TC stock on indoor carpet. I was wondering if there's any advantage in switching to an alloy chassis such as the C01AL-S2 or am I better off with the stock carbon chassis?
Car will be quicker when grip gets high. Chassis flexes less
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Old 11-30-2015, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by jdawg81 View Post
I have an A700L that I race in 17.5 TC stock on indoor carpet. I was wondering if there's any advantage in switching to an alloy chassis such as the C01AL-S2 or am I better off with the stock carbon chassis?
I run a upgraded A700l equivalent of a A700L2 and on high grip carpet the aluminum chassis really wake up the car. With the brace you have the possibility to alter the flex on low traction days.
It depends really of your budget you may start with some D2.1 shocks if your #6 shocks are old and upgrade to an aluminum S2 and MM2 motor mount later...
The issue with upgrading a "L" is that for the same price you may find an used EVO that is technically more easy to drive consistently...
My two cents
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Old 11-30-2015, 06:05 PM
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For carpet Alloy for Asphalt Carbon is the way I work it anyway. First upgrade I'd do is MM2 as it makes life a lot easier, and get some spares particularly P04, and a could of arms.
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Old 11-30-2015, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
Car will be quicker when grip gets high. Chassis flexes less
Originally Posted by daktulos View Post
I run a upgraded A700l equivalent of a A700L2 and on high grip carpet the aluminum chassis really wake up the car. With the brace you have the possibility to alter the flex on low traction days.
It depends really of your budget you may start with some D2.1 shocks if your #6 shocks are old and upgrade to an aluminum S2 and MM2 motor mount later...
The issue with upgrading a "L" is that for the same price you may find an used EVO that is technically more easy to drive consistently...
My two cents
Alright good to know that the alloy chassis is better as I assumed it was only good for outdoors. I've already installed the D2.1 dampers and I was just thinking of what to upgrade next to improve the car a little more. Yes I realize that I might be able to find a used Evo with an alloy chassis but not many come up for sale locally. And when one does come up for sale it's still much more expensive than buying just the chassis and the MM2 motor mount together.
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Old 11-30-2015, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by jdawg81 View Post
Alright good to know that the alloy chassis is better as I assumed it was only good for outdoors. I've already installed the D2.1 dampers and I was just thinking of what to upgrade next to improve the car a little more. Yes I realize that I might be able to find a used Evo with an alloy chassis but not many come up for sale locally. And when one does come up for sale it's still much more expensive than buying just the chassis and the MM2 motor mount together.
If you go that way PM me I can share you a Gee inspired setup that work well for me and some parts or modification that are needed to convert a L to an aluminum chassis.
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