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Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)

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Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)

Old 05-06-2015, 10:06 PM
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Upgrade to ffg.. Yes
Chassis - alloy vs carbon
Chassis brace/top deck designs
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Old 05-07-2015, 02:53 AM
  #8432  
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Default Springs

I have been looking at some of the recent set-up sheets from Europe and noticed in the remarks that the springs are bent 100% and 110%. Anybody care to elaborate on this modification and the benefits?

Thank you,

Patrick
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Old 05-07-2015, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by XCELL View Post
I have been looking at some of the recent set-up sheets from Europe and noticed in the remarks that the springs are bent 100% and 110%. Anybody care to elaborate on this modification and the benefits?

Thank you,

Patrick
This is not % .
This is angle of bending.

Our standard springs have ~90 deg bending but you can change this with pliers.
The standard 90 deg kit's springs are the noticeable progressive in our suspension.
~100 deg bent springs provide almost linear characteristics.
Picture of 100 deg bent spring:
Attached Thumbnails Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)-spr01-100-deg.jpg  
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Old 05-11-2015, 12:16 PM
  #8434  
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Default tie-rod end recommendations

I'm looking for some tie-rod end recommendations from anyone that has upgraded theirs or tried anything different. I've yet to really break anything on my Evo 2, but when the inevitable wreck does happen the only issue I run into is the camber links popping off. I've had both the inside and outside come off more often than I feel comfortable with considering how infrequently I hit the boards.

It's a little frustrating watching novice and sportsman bash their cars all day with seemingly no consequence, and the first time I touch a wall in a close race I'm out. (Can you tell what happened to me over the weekend? )

I want to replace all of my ball joints before the Reedy race, so before I just buy stock replacement parts figured I'd check in with you more experienced Awesomatix people. Any input will be appreciated.
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Old 05-11-2015, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by WesRaven View Post
I'm looking for some tie-rod end recommendations from anyone that has upgraded theirs or tried anything different. I've yet to really break anything on my Evo 2, but when the inevitable wreck does happen the only issue I run into is the camber links popping off. I've had both the inside and outside come off more often than I feel comfortable with considering how infrequently I hit the boards.

It's a little frustrating watching novice and sportsman bash their cars all day with seemingly no consequence, and the first time I touch a wall in a close race I'm out. (Can you tell what happened to me over the weekend? )

I want to replace all of my ball joints before the Reedy race, so before I just buy stock replacement parts figured I'd check in with you more experienced Awesomatix people. Any input will be appreciated.
I've experimented with 4 different ball ends. Stock, Kyosho Grey, Top and Xray. Xray is by far the best option as far as holding strength and longevity. Very little slop after almost two years of racing. Expect to spend over $100 if you go the xray route (you have to replace the ball ends and balls).
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Old 05-11-2015, 01:05 PM
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In the past I've used the associated ti balls and cups. Very little slop, and take some hard hits without coming off. That being said, there aren't many things to hit at the Tamiya / Reedy race track....just rolling over berms...
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Old 05-11-2015, 01:34 PM
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I only ran top "inner" ball ends until the new p13-4 came out. I love these ball ends now! All of my Evo2 cars only run with ST24/M/L and p13-4

For the p01/p02 fly apart -- zip tie or CA will fix things.
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Old 05-11-2015, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Magnet Top View Post
there aren't many things to hit at the Tamiya / Reedy race track....just rolling over berms...
That's very comforting. I think I'm just dealing with some PTSD from our club race yesterday; extremely fast with dots EVERYwhere... so, if someone bumped you into a dot going down one of the many straights, your car went flying end over end rather than just sliding against a wall.

Thanks for the recommendations and personal experience with the inner ends guys; that gives me some things to try with less experimentation.

Has anyone found anything that works better for the outer cups? or tried these? http://shop.awesomatixusa.com/awesom.../a700-fcb.html

edit:

For the p01/p02 fly apart -- zip tie or CA will fix things.
Thanks. I completely forgot to CA mine together; I will give this a try.
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Old 05-11-2015, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
I only ran top "inner" ball ends until the new p13-4 came out. I love these ball ends now! All of my Evo2 cars only run with ST24/M/L and p13-4

For the p01/p02 fly apart -- zip tie or CA will fix things.
I have to agree... P13-4 and ST24/M/L are great and every bit as good as the Xray cups and ball studs.
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Old 05-11-2015, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Magnet Top View Post
I have to agree... P13-4 and ST24/M/L are great and every bit as good as the Xray cups and ball studs.
After looking at the more detailed diagram of the FCB, I see that it uses a P13-4:


I have had my outer ends pop off far more often than the inner, and if the P13-4 (which I'm currently using) is as good as the Xray, I think I'm going to give the FCB a try. It's an expensive fix front and back, but if it can keep me in a race it will be worth every penny.

Last edited by WesRaven; 05-13-2015 at 12:04 AM.
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Old 05-12-2015, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by WesRaven View Post
After looking at the more detailed diagram of the FCB, I see that it uses a P13-4:


I have had my outer ends pop off far more often than the inner, and if the P13-4 (which I'm currently using) is as good as the Xray, I think I'm going to give the FCB a try. It's an expensive fix front and back, but if it can keep me in a race it will be worth every penny.

Unfortunately it looks like they are out of stock at Awesomatix USA. If I order tonight (Monday) what do you think the odds are of me getting them before the Reedy race?
Follow Hanulecs advice above.. CA P01 and P02 together. It's the best and most cost effective solution. Maybe start with a new set so they are tight and avoid removing them too many times. Although initially I have had to pop the unit ( p01+p02 ) off and on ST03 a few times to free it up slightly so the suspension travels freely.
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Old 05-12-2015, 09:23 AM
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Hanulec,

I saw your signed up for Reedy, will you be bringing parts to sell like IIC and other races? Need some ST24 that just came in stock but was hoping your bringing some spares like in the past.
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Old 05-12-2015, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Magnet Top View Post
Follow Hanulecs advice above.. CA P01 and P02 together. It's the best and most cost effective solution. Maybe start with a new set so they are tight and avoid removing them too many times. Although initially I have had to pop the unit ( p01+p02 ) off and on ST03 a few times to free it up slightly so the suspension travels freely.
Unfortunately I already ordered the FCB sets in my panic last night, but fortunately I do have some new P01/2 that I will try again per your recommendation.

Out of curiosity, aside from the obvious cost difference, what are the downsides of the FCB? I've asked around about these, but having a hard time finding any feedback at all. Seems like they are probably heavier with their extra complexity. Has anyone experience any durability issues?
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Old 05-12-2015, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by dizzy1 View Post
Hanulec,

I saw your signed up for Reedy, will you be bringing parts to sell like IIC and other races? Need some ST24 that just came in stock but was hoping your bringing some spares like in the past.
A parts box will be with the team drivers, but if you need something I wouldn't only depend upon that. I unfortunately won't be able to attend.... I haven't even run outdoors yet
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Old 05-18-2015, 03:11 PM
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I have an A700L that I was thinking of upgrading with parts from the A700L2. The biggest difference I can see with the A700L2 is that it has a new C01L2 chassis, GD2-S gear diff, and MM2 motor mount. Is it a straight forward swapping of parts to mount the new parts to my car? Or are there other pieces I'm missing that I'll need to fit the new parts?
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