poop

iTrader: (27)

Hi all,
I want to update my evo to the latest version. Am i missing anything from this list?

D2-S
MM2
AM33-5
AM49-3
AT03M-S
C01AL-S2

I think the only thing missing are the strong carbon arms but do they make a huge difference to handling?

I've already got the other parts like GD2 and AM24.

Thanks in advance!

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

The only person who I *think* might have is Jake D. I don't have any feedback.

Sebastian - there are SO MANY variables here -- you really just need to get to a place were you can measure camber and caster. Before caster doodles we just eyeballed the caster.

c04m (or c04al) are necessary for the C01AL-S2 otherwise the c04 arms will hit the P12 sway bar mounts. this can be overcome with a little dremel work.

ammdrew

iTrader: (25)

If you replace the outer upper screw on the c hub with a spare ball stud you can stick a wrench in the end of the ball stud to get a line across your setup tools caster guage. That will be fairly accurate until you get a doodle.

area52

Guys, thanks a bunch for the answers. I sat down last night with the setup system and started to set the camber and toe angles. At the end – when I calculated the castor angles as per manual – I ended up with a tad more than 5 degree up front and slightly less than -5 degree on the rear, so not too far off from what I'd like to achieve (4/-4).

Will give the spare-ballstud-and-wrench idea a try tonight.

Seb

S.Stew

iTrader: (13)

Another option is to thread a spare turnbuckle into the outer hole on the hub. It will act as a pointer to the caster scale on your setup system. It's not perfect but should work in a pinch!

b20btec

iTrader: (11)

I'm setting up a car for carpet, med traction, a little bumpy in the infield. Traction does go up slightly during the mains. I was thinking about using the AT21S for front and rear for the initial setup or should I stick with the AT21 and give that a go first time out?

Past experience with other cars, I tend to like lower roll center at this particular track.

Magnet Top

iTrader: (4)

If I have the optional at21S in hand I always use them for a build then add .5mm or more shims if desired. I suppose the only drawback is the hex faces are narrower on at21S by .5mm , but with a good wrench the hex's have never stripped on me. My opinion is , use at21S if you have them ! Then shim to taste!

Jake D.

WesRaven

I just finished building my new Evo 2. It looks like kits are now coming with ST24 ball studs and short links. Anyone have a recommended starting point for how much I should shim the ST24?

I'm going to be running on a med-high traction outdoor asphalt track this weekend, and since the manual only covers the AT21 and long links my initial settings are just guess-work.

edit:
Also, can anyone share their experience/comments on the different flex modes of the MM2? I'm currently at mode 3, but have very little idea of how this impacts the handling of the car, so I'm not sure when I would want to change it.

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

Wes-

St24 require 0.5 to 0.7mm of more shim than prior balls. I'd recommend looking at prior asphalt setups (for specific tires) and adjusting accordingly.

Some FL and CA boys will be running those new shocks outdoors soon (or have already) and can chime in on oil/damper settings.

As for MM2- I've only run mode 1 myself. Others are running mode 3. Haven't tested these back to back yet..

ammdrew

iTrader: (25)

Starting to get our heads around the evo II's Whole new thought process on some tuning and same on others.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BvAbkI33Xu8
qualled second finished second. Car was really good early in the day and went the wrong way late getting her just a bit too pushy in the main. But all in all pretty good. Still hunting for that base setup that lets us start out good and fine tune. Seems a lot of the setups are very very different from each other. Kind of branching off Mike Gee's Snowbirds setup as that was a best base drive we found for our track/ style of drive.

b20btec

iTrader: (11)

I suppose the only way to know is to try. What I like about the AT21S is that you can add to it. AT21 you're at a higher roll center from the start, if you need to lower your roll it would have to be from the upper links which is minimal compared to lower arms. I am worried about stripping the AT21S, may need to invest on a really nice wrench. Thanks for the input.

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

no need for a nice wrench for at21s. just scuff up the bottom of the balls so it "digs" into the chassis.

i always tighten at21/at21s on the chassis once they are installed in the p03/c04/p07 complex -- i take them off in one unit. was easier that way when wrenching on the car at the track....

Magnet Top

iTrader: (4)

Hanulec is right on ( as he usual is ). I don't even "scuff up" At21/At21S and I haven't used a wrench in a long time because the chassis usually causes enough friction. Sometimes I'll need to add a little bit of finger pressure on p03 until it starts to tighten. To further ensure the screws stay tight I'll try scuffing from now on. Good tip. Thanks. I only mentioned the hex wrench because some people like to tighten things more than I do.

WesRaven

I'd love to have something like this as well. Even when just considering the basic stuff, there's simply too much to remember (for me at least).

Fortunately for the most part suspension geometry doesn't really change, and the same concepts can be applied to all cars. I still reference my old TC3 tuning guide at the track and find it helpful to remind me of the fundamentals.

For more in-depth understanding I have been reading this site a lot and found it extremely helpful: http://users.telenet.be/elvo/

-Wes

b20btec

iTrader: (11)

Makes sense, thanks for the tip.