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Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)

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Old 01-06-2015, 02:12 PM
  #7501  
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when the new instructions are available, can someone please posk a link for download
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Old 01-06-2015, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
we will see. now at least i understand why the "A" gap is truly limited. my suspension is super light with the DR6 / DL6 for high grip carpet--

Front A=4; B=4.2 == 49.1
Rear A=4.2; B=3.0 == 55.6

i'm going to start at--

Front A=2; B=6.7 == 49.2
Rear A=2.4; B=5.8 == 55.4

i'll run my 17.5 stock car back to back w/ this new Evo II kit for the first time on Saturday. same motor type (Team Powers), battery (Aero Model 7600 90c), ESC (LRP Flow) to attempt to isolate some of the changes. i want to put A700-D2 into my 17.5 car later in the day.

i'll be building A700-D2 with Associated 80wt (1000 cst) tomorrow.
Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
Larry Fairtrace and I tried a few setups this weekend. From the dampener perspective an "A" gap of 2.0 seemed to work well. "B" gaps varied from 0 to 1.

I ran Evo II "kit" dampers. Larry ran D2 dampers with Associated 40WT (500cst)
I am going to run the DR/L6 dampers on the new chassis. Was looking for a bit of help on trying to emulate the same feel as what I am currently running, car is working very well using Josh's set-up with a few changes.

My current damper/spring setting are;
Front A-5.0 B-6.0 = 64.7gf/mm
Rear A-5.4 B-5.6 = 69.1gf/mm

(car is working well, I like the way it feels, however, I do think it is on the edge of traction rolling-if I clip a dot, it rolls easily.)
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Old 01-07-2015, 01:57 AM
  #7503  
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Hello,

On the new lower deck C01AL-S2 the C04 and P12 rub it between.

Should we cut the plastic part P12?
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Old 01-07-2015, 04:51 AM
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(car is working well, I like the way it feels, however, I do think it is on the edge of traction rolling-if I clip a dot, it rolls easily.)
Any solution/help for that?
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Old 01-07-2015, 04:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Tof View Post
Hello,

On the new lower deck C01AL-S2 the C04 and P12 rub it between.

Should we cut the plastic part P12?
Yes, with C04 please remove some material on P12.
New C04AL and C04M don't need this.
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Old 01-07-2015, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by SLOWINSLOWOUT View Post
I am going to run the DR/L6 dampers on the new chassis. Was looking for a bit of help on trying to emulate the same feel as what I am currently running, car is working very well using Josh's set-up with a few changes.

My current damper/spring setting are;
Front A-5.0 B-6.0 = 64.7gf/mm
Rear A-5.4 B-5.6 = 69.1gf/mm

(car is working well, I like the way it feels, however, I do think it is on the edge of traction rolling-if I clip a dot, it rolls easily.)
For the new chassis--
Right now your guess are as good as ours. It is really early days for everyone w/ the car. You'll have to run a low "A" gap in order to ensure they remain straight on the car --- as the AM17{l|r} will not be in contact with the C01AL-S2 chassis 'notch' after 3.6mm of "A" gap

For flipping--
Decreasing your "A" or "B" would make sense
Focusing your changes on the rear of the car often provides the most benefit. I would just reduce your Rear "A" gap by 1mm to 1.4mm.

Originally Posted by markova View Post
(car is working well, I like the way it feels, however, I do think it is on the edge of traction rolling-if I clip a dot, it rolls easily.)
Any solution/help for that?
There are many potential solutions for traction roll. The challenge is often
1- getting the right information on what to change... as there is a lot of bad info out there.
2- which change to prioritize
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Old 01-07-2015, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
For the new chassis--
Right now your guess are as good as ours. It is really early days for everyone w/ the car. You'll have to run a low "A" gap in order to ensure they remain straight on the car --- as the AM17{l|r} will not be in contact with the C01AL-S2 chassis 'notch' after 3.6mm of "A" gap

For flipping--
Decreasing your "A" or "B" would make sense
Focusing your changes on the rear of the car often provides the most benefit. I would just reduce your Rear "A" gap by 1mm to 1.4mm.



There are many potential solutions for traction roll. The challenge is often
1- getting the right information on what to change... as there is a lot of bad info out there.
2- which change to prioritize
I hear you Mike, I should of ordered the new dampers as well. On the subject of orders, mine is due to be delivered today, thanks for getting it out so fast!

I will try setting the gaps as such;
Front A-3.0 B-4.2=65.1gf/mm
Rear A-3.4 B-3.8=69.8gf/mm

Will see how that feels compared to my old set-up. It should solve the flipping issue I think. I do have a new set of DL/R6 dampers, could try those with the softer A gaps, this may work as well.

Going to a big race this weekend, traction should be way higher than what I run on normally, so the softer setting should help, and I can try softening the springs as well. (was just looking at your set ups, it is very close to what I am running, with the exception of I am running some reactive front castor, and you are way softer on the springs/dampening) Will play with it, but I am starting to understand how this car works, and I like it. I've never been faster!
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Old 01-07-2015, 10:36 AM
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the best suggestion is to try some big 'swings' in different directions until you get closer to a setup that feels right. you have to capitalize on the strengths of the given platform. the fact that with the help of a friend and a 1.5mm and 2.0mm driver you can change droop and dampening w/o leaving the stand is very important. in one battery pack you can potentially make some big changes and quickly dial yourself in (or out).
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Old 01-07-2015, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by SLOWINSLOWOUT View Post

Going to a big race this weekend, traction should be way higher than what I run on normally, so the softer setting should help, and I can try softening the springs as well. (was just looking at your set ups, it is very close to what I am running, with the exception of I am running some reactive front castor, and you are way softer on the springs/dampening) Will play with it, but I am starting to understand how this car works, and I like it. I've never been faster!
If the race you are talking about is the WCICS / IROCC race in Victoria Canada this weekend I'm attempting to be there albeit a little late on Friday. Look me up and I'll give as much support as I can. That goes for anyone running our car. 58 stock TC entries and 27 mod TC , should be another great event !

Jake D.
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Old 01-07-2015, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Magnet Top View Post
If the race you are talking about is the WCICS / IROCC race in Victoria Canada this weekend I'm attempting to be there albeit a little late on Friday. Look me up and I'll give as much support as I can. That goes for anyone running our car. 58 stock TC entries and 27 mod TC , should be another great event !

Jake D.
I'm glad you are going to be there....Jacob could use all your help he can get ....j/k
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Old 01-07-2015, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
the best suggestion is to try some big 'swings' in different directions until you get closer to a setup that feels right. you have to capitalize on the strengths of the given platform. the fact that with the help of a friend and a 1.5mm and 2.0mm driver you can change droop and dampening w/o leaving the stand is very important. in one battery pack you can potentially make some big changes and quickly dial yourself in (or out).
Yep, need to just try things. I never looked at it this way, you are right, very easy to do changes track side! One thing that just came to mind, it would be very useful if there was marks on the underside of the chassis at the damper cut-outs to set the dampers quickly track side.

Originally Posted by Magnet Top View Post
If the race you are talking about is the WCICS / IROCC race in Victoria Canada this weekend I'm attempting to be there albeit a little late on Friday. Look me up and I'll give as much support as I can. That goes for anyone running our car. 58 stock TC entries and 27 mod TC , should be another great event !

Jake D.
That's the one, this will be my third year going, I keep moving up every year, this year hoping for a solid B main finish in both TC stock and 12 stock. Should be a good time regardless!
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Old 01-07-2015, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by OVA View Post
I'm glad you are going to be there....Jacob could use all your help he can get ....j/k
It wouldnt be the same if you dont have both Jacobs

jk... thats right... should be a awesome.... 250+ entries now and still going up and up...
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Old 01-07-2015, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by SLOWINSLOWOUT View Post
Yep, need to just try things. I never looked at it this way, you are right, very easy to do changes track side! One thing that just came to mind, it would be very useful if there was marks on the underside of the chassis at the damper cut-outs to set the dampers quickly track side.
Unfortunately your spring rate and ride height are affected when moving the damper.
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Old 01-07-2015, 06:39 PM
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Hey Hanulec, i found this old pic on your instagram (awesome pics btw!)
http://instagram.com/p/jS1XmeGY9V/

I have the same servo and servo saver from Xray, do you remember the thickness of shims you put the bring the servo back a little?

d'oh! in my excitement i missed the 1.75mm!
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Old 01-07-2015, 07:08 PM
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Got my parts today to update my car. Needless to say, I have no assembly manual. Need guidance on the motor mount, how is it shimmed? Are there any shims between the chassis and AM73-1?

Also, there is no hole in the chassis for the center screw of AM08-1, does it just get held down by the damper screws now?
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