hanulec

iTrader: (28)

From what I understand -- the stop watch showed the difference.

Jamison R

iTrader: (64)

I just bought a new evo for stock 17.5 racing. Im the first to have one at our newly resurrected track at DRCW. The track has really good traction for asphalt. Looking for a good starting set up and any parts I might want to buy now. Are these the p20 parts noted on previous page? And if yes how many do I need?
http://shop.awesomatixusa.com/a700-p...j590trf0td8jn0

Any help greatly appreciated!

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

Just one pack p20. For the front.

Setup wise.. I'd say run mine/Fairtrace from Jackson 2014.

Jamison R

iTrader: (64)

Awesome. Thanks for the help.

oeoeo327

iTrader: (75)

The car didn't respond well to steering inputs, and often stalled in the tighter corners unless you applied a little throttle to drive the car through the turn. Unfortunately, doing so didn't allow the car to rotate naturally through the turn, essentially taking away the one big advantage this car has over its competitors. Larger sway bars exacerbated the mid-corner push (while helping minimally with initial steering response), but over the course of a few laps overheated the front tires to the point where the car began to push throughout the entire corner. I decided to try the cut top deck with screws added in the outside holes front and rear, and immediately cut 4 tenths off of an average lap during a 6 minute run. The car responded far better in chicanes, and had more steering.

I switched to an uncut top deck, and the car felt even better. While not quite as fast as Hanulec's EVO, my laptimes aren't that far off...

I was amazed at what 4 screws did for the car - it went from pretender to contender after 2 minutes of work.

oeoeo327

iTrader: (75)

Agreed... This setup works really well on asphalt, and is a great starting point for a 17.5 setup.

Stogie

iTrader: (2)

Looking at some of those recent set-up sheets, not sure how you guys are getting your cars to work with the rear of the car "stiffer" than the front - 15-20+ gF/mm in some cases (and sometimes even more dampening rear than front)! That just seems completely counter-intuitive to me.

On another note, a couple of technical questions...

1) What is the effect of running the steering rack forward vs. rearward?

2) Under what conditions would you want to use the up-stops, and to what degree can you realistically adjust it?

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

I'm not sure what you're missing about a stiffer rear suspension. You need to forget everything you think you know about touring cars when you setup an Awesomatix. Lets just say - traditionally you have a 17lb front spring, 14lb rear spring and 350cst oil. When you push down the car's front end and rear end ------- which one is softer??? It is not what you would think based upon those spring rates.

#1 adjusts ackerman. the effect of this is covered everywhere...

#2 up-stops -- beats me. never used it.

Stogie

iTrader: (2)

I tried a couple of those setups and the rear of the car wants to break loose coming out of all but the most gentle corners, no matter how soft I drive it. Went back to my usual ~80gF/mm front, ~70gF/mm rear (2mm dampening gap all the way around) and everything was good again. Must be something weird about Jackson... ? I'm running mod at Leisure Hours, which I would also consider relatively low grip asphalt. Granted, a lot larger track, but cornering is cornering. Bergstrom's setup from Reedy makes a lot of sense, I'll probably migrate that direction with my setup, which isn't too much of a stretch from where I am now.

I'll experiment with the up-stops next time I'm at the track - particularly the ones in front. I'm wondering if I limit the up travel for the front arms to where the chassis down travel stops just short of hitting the setup board... will that make an impact of the occasional ass-happiness of the car under hard braking for a sharp turn? (That's my theory, anyways).

Also... any thoughts on a realistic lifespan of the springs? I have to wonder if they warp or change consistency over time. Just thinking it may be a good idea to put new ones on every 6 months or so?

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

Stogie - the best advise I can give you is have a friend track side with a 2mm and 1.5mm wrench. Adjusting dampeners in and out, adjusting droop, and even considering adjusting the spring settings you can learn a lot. For stock -- I found these base settings after 2 months of wasting time with setup sheets --- and only found useful settings in 30m of track time with wrenches and a friend.

Setting the front/rear dampeners the same way is a great trick to manage getting close to the baseline. If the car pushes a bit on entry ... Soften the front dampener or spring.

For mod -- I'd look at Josh's or Gee's setups. Bergstrom's Reedy setup might work too in mod.

Spr01/s should last a long long time unless you have many board meetings. Spr02 are more sensitive to crash damage.

I've never used downstops. I like my asphalt car to Al ghtlt bottom out at the tightest/slowest corners on the track. I feel like the car is working well then. If it is too much, just add some front dampening.

Remember a larger #mm in dampener increases dampening. A larger #mm in spring (hook) decreases spring rate.

Styles

iTrader: (11)

I have a A700L for sale over in the for sale thread. Lots of spares and electronics to go with it. I've had it up for a while and thought I would mention it in here before I move it to eBay. Hope thats ok.

Click here to jump over and check it out

JayL

Would the rollcenter of the Raceberry with AT21 under the arms be close to stock chassis with AT21S under the arms?

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

That is what I believe.
RACEBERRY or C01AL + AT21 equal to C01L + AT21S

JayL

thank you!

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

i had a typo-- corrected it.