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Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)

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Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)

Old 04-19-2014, 08:13 PM
  #6181  
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Originally Posted by G-rem View Post
Did someone already use the C01-Al chassis in stead of the carbon one on asphalt track? Wich works better?
Still loving the effect and handling the carbon on asphalt here.
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Old 04-19-2014, 09:02 PM
  #6182  
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Originally Posted by G-rem View Post
Did someone already use the C01-Al chassis in stead of the carbon one on asphalt track? Wich works better?
I tried running a top deck on my L chassis Evo today in mod, I did not like it as much as with no topdeck. Based on that, I doubt the aluminum chassis will be better as it is stiffer than the carbon chassis. I actually have a L chassis that has been cut out a bit that is running dialed in 17.5 that I am going to try in mod next week
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Old 04-19-2014, 10:42 PM
  #6183  
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setup info

so in the last few weeks I have tried several different configurations in prep getting ready for the Reedy race.

Im sure many of the guys got different results from the warm up race but i figured i would share what i have learned. As of about a month ago i was running the stock A700L and it was very good. I then figured i would try the different chassis with the new ffg conversion. I first started with the alum. chassis with no top deck. On this particular day it was roughly 130f track temp here in az. At this point the alum chassis with the ffg was faster than the car had ever been without the ffg. After trying the alum. chassis i added the top deck. The car became much more reactive and transitioned through the chicanes without the rear end breaking out. I figured this was what would be the best for my driving style and was what i was going to be using at reedy.
Last weekend I wanted to try the standard L chassis as i had not yet with the FFG. After several runs with this chassis the car became more consistent it seemed the car had more traction overall but the times overall did not seem to be as fast. I then tried this configuration with the top deck. The top deck seemed to be to much for the settings i has been using for the suspension. the car became more reactive but lost mid and exit steering.
Today I tried the Raceberry chassis. This chassis I used without any top deck to start. I have been running the car each time with a front gear diff with ear plugs. Today it was nice and hot and i noticed the front gear diff changing throughout the run. I didnt notice this last night as we ran practice at night and it was only 75-80f degrees. I put the spool back in to see if I could get the entrance steering i gained with the gear diff with this raceberry chassis. It was even better. With my driving style it allowed me to throw the car into the corner hard under braking. The raceberry chassis seemed like it gained significant corner speed. The car rotated very hard mid to exit of the corner. The car seemed less predictable but if i was able to hold onto the car throughout the race it was much faster. I did not get the chance to run the top deck with the raceberry chassis with i will start with it and the RB chassis next weekend at the Speedtech race.

Note with each chassis change I adjusted the linkages as the chassis are different thickness.

end of rant.

Kyle
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Old 04-20-2014, 12:03 AM
  #6184  
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I have measured the actual torsional stiffness (stiffness at twisting) of A700 Evo frame (with FFG installed) at different combinations of chassis, AM30-1 stiffener and C21 top deck.
The torsional stiffness of the frame region between the rear AM01 and front FFG bulkheads was measured.

Two variants of C21 top deck were used: the standard C21 and Cut C21 (with removed rear crosspiece).

Four variants of AM30-1 installation on C01AL chassis were used:
a). AM30-1 stiffener fully screwed with 5pcs of SF3x6 screws.
b). AM30-1F: AM30-1 screwed with the central SF3x6 screw and two SF3x6 screws in the front end holes. One SS3x8 set screw (grub screw) was used in the rear end hole of AM30-1.
c). AM30-1R: AM30-1 screwed with the central SF3x6 screw and two SF3x6 screws in the rear end holes. One SS3x8 set screw (grub screw) was used in the front end hole of AM30-1.
d). AM30-1C: AM30-1 screwed with the central SF3x6 screw only. Two SS3x8 set screws (grub screws) were used in the rear and front ends holes of AM30-1.

C01L chassis with FFG but without top deck was used as the reference point ( 100% of torsion stiffness).

The results:

1. C01L 3mm carbon chassis, no top deck: 100% ( reference point)
2. C01L 3mm carbon chassis + Cut C21 top deck: 141%
3. C01L 3mm carbon chassis + C21 top deck: 146%

4. C01AL alloy chassis, no AM30-1, no top deck: 110%
5. C01AL alloy chassis + AM30-1C, no top deck: 110%

Please note: AM30-1C variant of stiffener installation doesn’t increase the torsion stiffness and equals “no AM30-1” in terms of the torsional stiffness influence.
But AM30-1C increases the longitudinal stiffness for sure ( very positive influence) and is used as the inner battery holder also.
So I prefer to use AM30-1C on the car instead of “no AM30-1”.

6. C01AL alloy chassis + AM30-1F, no top deck: 126%
7. C01AL alloy chassis + AM30-1R, no top deck: 126%
8. C01AL alloy chassis + AM30-1, no top deck: 145%

Please note: AM30-1F and AM30-1R variants of stiffener installation provide the similar final torsional stiffness effect.
The difference is only in the distribution of the stiffness along the chassis but it is beyond of this investigation.

9. C01AL alloy chassis + Cut C21 + AM30-1C: 150%
10. C01AL alloy chassis + C21 + AM30-1C : 155%

Please note: the removing of the rear crosspiece on C21 top deck ( Cut C21 variant) reduces the overall stiffness on ~ 5%.

11. C01AL chassis + Cut C21 + AM30-1F or AM30-1R: 168%
12. C01AL chassis + C21 + AM30-1F or AM30-1R : 173%

13. C01AL chassis + Cut C21 + AM30-1: 197%
14. C01AL chassis + C21 + AM30-1: 202%

15. C01AL-H hard coated chassis provides ~ +5% increased stiffness at all mentioned combinations for alloy chassis.

Please note that C01Al/C01AL-H + AM30-1 + C21 combinations provide very wide range of the torsional stiffness ( torsional flex) for A700 Evo car.

It will be very interesting to compare the layouts with the similar flex provided by different elements at track tests , for example:
“ 3. C01L 3mm carbon chassis + C21 top deck: 146% “ and “ 8. C01AL alloy chassis + AM30-1, no top deck: 145%
or
“ 8. C01AL alloy chassis +AM30-1, no top deck: 145% ” and “ 9. C01AL alloy chassis + Cut C21+AM30-1C: 150%

Last edited by Oleg Babich; 04-20-2014 at 05:37 AM.
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Old 04-20-2014, 06:59 PM
  #6185  
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Hi

Am about to place an order on the awesomatixUSA website for some A700 goodies. Would delivery to San Francisco be possible before Thursday, 24 Apr ?

I am in Singapore, and have a friend travelling from SF that I hope he can play bring the items with. Thanks in advance.
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Old 04-20-2014, 07:24 PM
  #6186  
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
I tried running a top deck on my L chassis Evo today in mod, I did not like it as much as with no topdeck. Based on that, I doubt the aluminum chassis will be better as it is stiffer than the carbon chassis. I actually have a L chassis that has been cut out a bit that is running dialed in 17.5 that I am going to try in mod next week
Can you post a pic of the cut out chassis?
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Old 04-20-2014, 08:51 PM
  #6187  
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Originally Posted by NickGroves View Post
Can you post a pic of the cut out chassis?
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Old 04-20-2014, 08:52 PM
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Is there any advantage to get the Evo USA Spec over the A700L USA Spec since i will only run 17.5 blinky on carpet ?
And what are the spare parts that are good to have in the pit box ?
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Old 04-21-2014, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by mymax View Post
Is there any advantage to get the Evo USA Spec over the A700L USA Spec since i will only run 17.5 blinky on carpet ?
And what are the spare parts that are good to have in the pit box ?
The FFG is the main difference, both are fast, many have reported even in 17.5 they could put power down better with the FFG setup. (And it seems most of the lastet fast guy setups are all FFG based).
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Old 04-21-2014, 07:25 AM
  #6190  
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Originally Posted by HoJo View Post
Hi

Am about to place an order on the awesomatixUSA website for some A700 goodies. Would delivery to San Francisco be possible before Thursday, 24 Apr ?

I am in Singapore, and have a friend travelling from SF that I hope he can play bring the items with. Thanks in advance.
Hi,

In South East Asia Awsome have main distributor, his name is Michael Lo and he stay in Malaysia, perhaps you can order from him and believe is more convinient for you.
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Old 04-21-2014, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
The FFG is the main difference, both are fast, many have reported even in 17.5 they could put power down better with the FFG setup. (And it seems most of the lastet fast guy setups are all FFG based).
I believe at MHIC and at Nat's this year all the fast guys running A700's were running the L chassis. Including 1st and 2nd place in the national championship. Seems they are reserving the Evo for the higher power classes.
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Old 04-21-2014, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Clegg View Post
I believe at MHIC and at Nat's this year all the fast guys running A700's were running the L chassis. Including 1st and 2nd place in the national championship. Seems they are reserving the Evo for the higher power classes.
And at Snowbirds Larry ran an Evo car.

Both work -- but have different fine tunings we are all learning about right now...
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Old 04-21-2014, 09:43 AM
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I ran into an issue mounting a motor in my A700L last week. I was throwing in a Tekin 6.5 for some mod running, and realized the motor can is about 1 - 1.5mm too long to fit in the cutout on the chassis. After going back and forth with Tekin about this, it turns out the cut out on the chassis is smaller than the IFMAR 540 motor can size limits. Tekin were pretty clear that their motor fits in the industry standard max can size, but the A700L chassis is smaller than spec by a few mm.

Any reason Oleg went small on the motor cut out in the chassis? Is the cut out in the Aluminum chassis bigger? or the Raceberry?

I did some hacking on the Tekin motor to make it fit (grinding down the endbell), but that's not optimal by any means.
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Old 04-21-2014, 10:09 AM
  #6194  
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Originally Posted by Clegg View Post
I ran into an issue mounting a motor in my A700L last week. I was throwing in a Tekin 6.5 for some mod running, and realized the motor can is about 1 - 1.5mm too long to fit in the cutout on the chassis. After going back and forth with Tekin about this, it turns out the cut out on the chassis is smaller than the IFMAR 540 motor can size limits. Tekin were pretty clear that their motor fits in the industry standard max can size, but the A700L chassis is smaller than spec by a few mm.

Any reason Oleg went small on the motor cut out in the chassis? Is the cut out in the Aluminum chassis bigger? or the Raceberry?

I did some hacking on the Tekin motor to make it fit (grinding down the endbell), but that's not optimal by any means.
Odd ... I've run several different motors (D3.5, D3, Kill Shot, Viper, Shur Speed and Reedy) and have never had a problem with the motor cutout. Maybe the graphite plate shifted in the NC tool? I know the raw material shifting in NC tools is problem where I work.
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Old 04-21-2014, 10:19 AM
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So I've had my car for a week and I've noticed that the rear of the chassis drags the carpet pretty consistently on mine. I'm running Kody's setup from '14 carpet nats with a 5.5 ride height and the rub is pretty consistently showing from the motor back, the width of the chassis. Is that normal?
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