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Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)

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Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)

Old 03-30-2014, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Travis S View Post


I have noticed a lot of you guys running your batteries with the plugs in the rear. What difference does this make? The top deck of the A700 has a notch for the plugs to go in the front so I never tried it the other way and just assumed this was the way I should run the car. I know the EVO the top deck doesn't get in the way of the plugs, but I thought I saw people doing this with the L and EX.
plugs are lighter than the rest of the battery -- so it is used to alter weight distribution.

i personally run the plugs forward.
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Old 03-30-2014, 11:39 AM
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Default News from Oleg

Hi all-
This week I got some news from Oleg about product changes and new parts.

New Parts-
  • AM06M Steering Block x 2 provides the same roll center as AM06S but narrows the car by 1.5mm
  • P40F Plastic servo arm for Futaba servos (25T) compatible
  • P40K Plastic servo arm for Sanwa, Ko and JR servos (23 Tooth) compatible

These parts are available now at Shop.Awesomatix.com and are available for back order at Shop.AwesomatixUSA.com

Running changes to products--
  • All kits from us are with AM06S now.
  • All chassis ( C01L and C01EX) in the kits are with the additional cutouts for P06-1 now.

Finally, Shop.Awesomatix.com will be stocking Bitty Design TC bodies. Extra shipping charges will apply--
http://shop.awesomatix.com/index.php?categoryID=574
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Old 03-30-2014, 11:56 AM
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Nice updates! Really good that the chassis are coming cut for P06-1 now, that will make that part of the build easier =]

What's the thinking behind the narrow hubs? What can we expect them to do for the handling and for what conditions are they suggested?
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Old 03-30-2014, 03:49 PM
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.

Last edited by HawaiiBob; 03-31-2014 at 02:12 PM.
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Old 03-30-2014, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Quantra View Post
Nice updates! Really good that the chassis are coming cut for P06-1 now, that will make that part of the build easier =]

What's the thinking behind the narrow hubs? What can we expect them to do for the handling and for what conditions are they suggested?
Vince-
The initially offered description by Oleg is to be used in low traction environments (assume in the rear).

I'd recommend you turn to proper descriptions of track width's effect on setup/handling. There are a lot of great options out there -- don't want to steal from them here. The true definition is around how lateral weight transfer is effected. I suspect the track width adjustment the AM06M provides will also effect upper camber link length (but this all depends upon how the part is made -- and I haven't seen one yet).

On other cars I've used track width to help improve steering (narrow front) or improve rotation (narror rear). It will be interesting to try these adjustments now on the Awesomatix. Until now changes have been limited to wheel shims --- and I've only bothered adding 0.5mm front wheel shim to help reduce traction roll tendencies on some of these "not so" spec rubber tires that many manufactures have been selling recently. Another option "could" be to narrow up the rear track width instead of increase the front width.
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Old 03-31-2014, 03:54 AM
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Cheers, it will be interesting to see what the exact geometry of them is and if that affects camber gain/roll centers. I've only ever widened the front of a car to avoid grip roll but that was with another car, not played with track width with this one yet.

It's always interesting to know the situation which caused the necessity to create the part and I guess I'm still a little hung up on studying Viljami's LRP TCM set up sheet. It just seems so odd with the AM06 rear and AM06S front. I guess we have a good selection of hubs now =]

I'm almost always using Sorex tyres, they are so common/popular over here but kind of rare to see on the set up sheets available on the web.
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Old 03-31-2014, 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Quantra View Post
Cheers, it will be interesting to see what the exact geometry of them is and if that affects camber gain/roll centers. I've only ever widened the front of a car to avoid grip roll but that was with another car, not played with track width with this one yet.

It's always interesting to know the situation which caused the necessity to create the part and I guess I'm still a little hung up on studying Viljami's LRP TCM set up sheet. It just seems so odd with the AM06 rear and AM06S front. I guess we have a good selection of hubs now =]

I'm almost always using Sorex tyres, they are so common/popular over here but kind of rare to see on the set up sheets available on the web.
Viljami was running the pre-cursor to the AM06M on his car. If you cut down the AM06 to the same vertical height as the AM06S you'd get the AM06M.

We don't see Sorex tires much here in North America. When I've run Sorex I've used my same at21s-based setup on an L/EXL car.
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Old 03-31-2014, 04:35 AM
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That's even more interesting as I guess that means the axle height is higher than AM06S. Also makes a change when I put 2 and 2 together and actually come out with 4 xD

Got to do some work on the car later as I have an issue with freeplay in the wishbones when running more droop at the rear, I'll look at some hubs side by side when I do that.

Originally Posted by Travis S View Post
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Old 03-31-2014, 07:00 AM
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Hello all, I have searched this thread a bit, and understand that the awesomeatix has rear castor, and bumpsteer, as well as reactive steering. I was wondering what are the benefits, and effects of these options on the car? Any information to those subjects would be beneficial and thank you in advance.
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Old 03-31-2014, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by thecaptain View Post
Hello all, I have searched this thread a bit, and understand that the awesomeatix has rear castor, and bumpsteer, as well as reactive steering. I was wondering what are the benefits, and effects of these options on the car? Any information to those subjects would be beneficial and thank you in advance.
Rear Caster - used to adjust wheelbase, no other effect that i'm aware of.

Rear Bump steer - used to increase or reduce rear toe as the car leans into the corner. I've played with this a little but not enough to say it's beneficial setting. If the link is angled upwards it increases tow in as the arm lifts, link flat less to no toe in change in on arm rise, angled down decreases toe on arm rise.

Reactive Caster in the front - same theory as 12th scale reactive caster. As the arm lefts caster will be removed. Info from 12th scale setup guide.
-Increase the angle – Make the car react quicker & offer more steering.
-Decrease the angle – make the car easier to drive smoothly into corners.
I personally like this setting and use it on both my cars, gives the car more overall steering through out the entire turn.
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Old 03-31-2014, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by bkspeedo View Post
Rear Caster - used to adjust wheelbase, no other effect that i'm aware of.

Rear Bump steer - used to increase or reduce rear toe as the car leans into the corner. I've played with this a little but not enough to say it's beneficial setting. If the link is angled upwards it increases tow in as the arm lifts, link flat less to no toe in change in on arm rise, angled down decreases toe on arm rise.

Reactive Caster in the front - same theory as 12th scale reactive caster. As the arm lefts caster will be removed. Info from 12th scale setup guide.
-Increase the angle – Make the car react quicker & offer more steering.
-Decrease the angle – make the car easier to drive smoothly into corners.
I personally like this setting and use it on both my cars, gives the car more overall steering through out the entire turn.
Would these effects be capable, on a more traditional touring car? By modifying the front steering knuckles, and castor blocks to put on the rear of the car to replace the one c hub, and only using one link, the camber link?
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Old 03-31-2014, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by thecaptain View Post
Would these effects be capable, on a more traditional touring car? By modifying the front steering knuckles, and castor blocks to put on the rear of the car to replace the one c hub, and only using one link, the camber link?
I suppose you could modify a traditional TC to include these features. The hard part would be the c-hub\steering block. There's no easy way to modify an existing car to do front reactive caster without fabricating new parts. Same for the rear toe bump steer.
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Old 03-31-2014, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by thecaptain View Post
Would these effects be capable, on a more traditional touring car? By modifying the front steering knuckles, and castor blocks to put on the rear of the car to replace the one c hub, and only using one link, the camber link?
Not unless you somehow are able to change the lower mount to a non fixed, ball style mount, normal arms use a pin so the hub cannot pivot forward/back.
There is a lot more to this car than these settings, they are just fine tuning
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Old 03-31-2014, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by bkspeedo View Post
I suppose you could modify a traditional TC to include these features. The hard part would be the c-hub\steering block. There's no easy way to modify an existing car to do front reactive caster without fabricating new parts. Same for the rear toe bump steer.
Yes that's what im asking, specifically to that rear castor. I can easily modify the front steering, castor blocks to assume the position of just the c hub in that rear. A dremel and some sand paper would see to that. Now would having permanent castor in the rear. That would affect the rear tires slip angle constantly yes? Yes they are fine tuning options that why I am looking to try these. I appreciate the responses and information, trying to negate my ignorance towards this.
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Old 03-31-2014, 09:03 AM
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What upper ballcups and balls are everyone using? I miss the ability to put a wrench thru the ball cup to loosen up the ball to change shims. I see in the pic a few posts up it has what I want.
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