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Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)

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Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)

Old 03-24-2014, 09:39 AM
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Did some durability testing over the weekend and the car held up well. For those just building the kit and are concerned about spares this is what I've broke...

1. Bent stock turnbuckle

2. Bent front dog bone

Both happened on the sweeper off the straightaway.
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Old 03-24-2014, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by trackout View Post
Just about finishing my awesome new A700 Evo but I have two questions that have come up:

1. The setup sheet shows more holes than exist on the car. So if I am using a setup sheet how do the holes on the sheet align with the ones in the car? ie outermost holes line up and you count inward from there?

2. The camber links seem long and I'm having difficulty tightening them up enough for appropriate camber while using the second from outermost hole on the car. Is there an upgrade/alternate set of camber links to use in those situations?
I switched to the Top Racing balls and open ended ball cups.
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Old 03-24-2014, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by oeoeo327 View Post
Hmmm... I was thinking if the bulkheads were located the same distance apart on either chassis, it wouldn't matter since you'd be able to use the top deck if your application requires one. The only thing I hadn't researched is whether or not the FFG bulkheads mount the same distance apart from front to rear, and utilize the same mounting points.
I don't see why they wouldn't align. The lower deck used on the EVO is the same as on the A700L. So you should be able to use the chassis but only with longitudinal motor mount.
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:18 AM
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Has anybody ran without the driveshaft brace in 17.5? Would the shaft oscillations be an issue with only a 17.5 motor?
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by oeoeo327 View Post
Hmmm... I was thinking if the bulkheads were located the same distance apart on either chassis, it wouldn't matter since you'd be able to use the top deck if your application requires one. The only thing I hadn't researched is whether or not the FFG bulkheads mount the same distance apart from front to rear, and utilize the same mounting points.
Jerry has a FFG car with carbon lower and a top deck, so it does work, the point really is that going with a hard lower deck AND a top deck would likely make the car way too stiff, especially since we're heading outdoors soon. I have not yet tested any of that though, so maybe I'm wrong
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
Jerry has a FFG car with carbon lower and a top deck, so it does work, the point really is that going with a hard lower deck AND a top deck would likely make the car way too stiff, especially since we're heading outdoors soon. I have not yet tested any of that though, so maybe I'm wrong
I'm thinking I'll be the guinea pig for this experiment. I use the collars under the top deck screws, so most of the lateral flex is controlled by the chassis itself. The main reason I'm looking to upgrade is to move to a narrower chassis plate.
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by oeoeo327 View Post
Hmmm... I was thinking if the bulkheads were located the same distance apart on either chassis, it wouldn't matter since you'd be able to use the top deck if your application requires one. The only thing I hadn't researched is whether or not the FFG bulkheads mount the same distance apart from front to rear, and utilize the same mounting points.
All chassis holes will be in the same major spots. Major differences thru the years have been recessed holes for the lower arm mounts and the cuts in the chassis for more flex.

Outdoors I'm going to try--
Raceberry hard
C01al
C01l
My hand cut up c01l that I ran all last summer (and at iic)

Testing this stuff is 1/2 the fun...

Last edited by hanulec; 03-24-2014 at 11:59 AM.
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Old 03-24-2014, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
All chassis holes will be in the same major spots. Major differences thru the years have been recessed holes for the lower arm mounts and the cuts in the chassis for more flex.

Outdoors I'm going to try--
Raceberry hard
C01al
C01l
My hand cut up c01l that I ran all last summer (and at iic)

Testing this stuff is 1/2 the fun...
What top deck did you like last season outdoor, the T cut or just the cutouts?
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Old 03-24-2014, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
What top deck did you like last season outdoor, the T cut or just the cutouts?
T Cut was definitely the best outdoors. The raceberry "hard" chassis is much thinner than the L chassis (2.1mm vs 3mm), so overall I believe it is flexier.

samsking - yes, for 17.5 you can get away without the brace on a L car.
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Old 03-25-2014, 01:23 PM
  #6025  
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Car for sale?
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Old 03-25-2014, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Zooberg View Post
Car for sale?
I have an A700L if you are interested. It was only run at IIC and has been in storage.
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:21 PM
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Any review how this car perform on low traction track ???

Thanks
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by kschu View Post
Any review how this car perform on low traction track ???

Thanks
excellent! it probably shines best under low bite. the car accelerates on low bite surfaces better than others.

what surface do you run on? carpet? asphalt?
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
excellent! it probably shines best under low bite. the car accelerates on low bite surfaces better than others.

what surface do you run on? carpet? asphalt?
on asphalt..do it need big changes in order to run in low or high traction track condition ?
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by kschu13130636
on asphalt..do it need big changes in order to run in low or high traction track condition ?
It depends how high "High grip" is. If you mean like prepped nitro track, probably not so much. If you mean like indoor asphalt track where it's more like carpet level grip, probably. But that will be true of any car
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