Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive) >

Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)

Like Tree96Likes

Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)

Old 12-18-2013, 04:55 PM
  #5026  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (28)
 
hanulec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: @ the post office
Posts: 9,605
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by SavageCanadian View Post
Thats the same way im running it
are your radio steering end points at greater than 100? my airtronics m12 is set to 140/145%
hanulec is offline  
Old 12-18-2013, 05:24 PM
  #5027  
Tech Master
iTrader: (60)
 
SavageCanadian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Kelowna BC Canada
Posts: 1,803
Trader Rating: 60 (100%+)
Default

Yep, I run a m12 as well there both around 140
SavageCanadian is offline  
Old 12-18-2013, 05:37 PM
  #5028  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (28)
 
hanulec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: @ the post office
Posts: 9,605
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by SavageCanadian View Post
Yep, I run a m12 as well there both around 140
the only other thing i can think of is that your servo is too far forward and the links are hitting when your near full lock. this mostly happens right in front of the servo.

i've added 1.75mm to my servo (sanwa sgr-bls) between the am24 to allow me to move the rack back w/o any interference.

another hint is to make sure your rack is centered. i use a caliper to measure the difference from the bearings to bulkhead. it is about 10mm on each side.

these are the only other ideas i have...
hanulec is offline  
Old 12-18-2013, 06:40 PM
  #5029  
Tech Master
iTrader: (60)
 
SavageCanadian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Kelowna BC Canada
Posts: 1,803
Trader Rating: 60 (100%+)
Default

Thanks for the tips, I changed the ballstud location on the hubs and now I get 19 both sides at max dr and 17 at 90%
SavageCanadian is offline  
Old 12-19-2013, 06:29 AM
  #5030  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: CRC Raceway
Posts: 1,048
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

When Hanulec was working on my rod, my steering tie rod that is, we did two things. One, he had me raise the mounting point on the servo arm. Two he had me lower the mounting point on the rack. Doing both of those things gave me more throw.
dumper is offline  
Old 12-19-2013, 08:46 AM
  #5031  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
 
KHoff7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,166
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by dumper View Post
When Hanulec was working on my rod, my steering tie rod that is, we did two things. One, he had me raise the mounting point on the servo arm. Two he had me lower the mounting point on the rack. Doing both of those things gave me more throw.
Should have had Arvin Nano work on it.
KHoff7 is offline  
Old 12-19-2013, 09:23 AM
  #5032  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: CRC Raceway
Posts: 1,048
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Oh no, please don't start this again! I don't have another 2 days to dedicate to the awesomeness of Arvin Nano.....
dumper is offline  
Old 12-19-2013, 07:52 PM
  #5033  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 7,091
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Smile

Here's another idea ...New A700 upgrade: 4mm carbon fiber shaft(3.5grams) from E. Wippler... The lightest shaft ever.....
Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
the only other thing i can think of is that your servo is too far forward and the links are hitting when your near full lock. this mostly happens right in front of the servo.

i've added 1.75mm to my servo (sanwa sgr-bls) between the am24 to allow me to move the rack back w/o any interference.

another hint is to make sure your rack is centered. i use a caliper to measure the difference from the bearings to bulkhead. it is about 10mm on each side.

these are the only other ideas i have...
bertrandsv87 is offline  
Old 12-20-2013, 06:27 AM
  #5034  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 25
Default

What's are the differences between GD2 diff and current diff. ?
chrispys is offline  
Old 12-20-2013, 08:31 AM
  #5035  
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Lynnwood, Washington
Posts: 1,019
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

GD2 holds a larger volume of oil and uses larger gears, xray gears, to make it smoother. There are other differences like the optional pinned outdrives and the ability to bleed excess oil.
malkiy is offline  
Old 12-20-2013, 08:05 PM
  #5036  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
josecarlo1129's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Las Vegas/ Bahrain
Posts: 437
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

^Ditto. The GD (1st gen) if installed/build correctly (my way: combined plastic and metal satellite gears) is smooth as silk & indestructible, hence making it superior with the release of GD ver 2 bundled with the pinned outdrives. This update is sick. Another superb job from Oleg and co.
josecarlo1129 is offline  
Old 12-20-2013, 08:37 PM
  #5037  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (32)
 
syndr0me's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: 5280 Raceway
Posts: 13,269
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Any build tips on filling up the GD2?
syndr0me is offline  
Old 12-21-2013, 06:14 AM
  #5038  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (28)
 
hanulec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: @ the post office
Posts: 9,605
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
Any build tips on filling up the GD2?
I don't have a totally un-messy way of filling the diff yet. These parts work best so far--

Mcmaster 5233K113 Clear—Metric PVC Tube

Mcmaster 7510A653 0.34 oz. (10 cc) Regular Syringes with Luer Lock Tip

Getting the same model syringe but w/ a bigger volume would work better.
Making your PVC tube as small as possible also works.
I don't have a proper on/off valve so I can build pressure in the system first. Basically the setup was-

0. removing set screws from diff ends
1. associated diff oil bottle w/ cap off
2. short tube to one diff end
3. short tube from other diff end to syringe
4. action the syringe until fluid starts flow
5. wait for air to stop flowing.
6. take tubes off diff and install set screws.
hanulec is offline  
Old 12-21-2013, 06:36 AM
  #5039  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
hana166's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 681
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

That sounds brilliant. So you've got a bottle of fluid at the bottom, diff in the middle and a syringe on top to suck the air out from the top, pulling the fluid in from the bottom so there's no air left/perfect bleed? Genius, so easy!
hana166 is offline  
Old 12-21-2013, 07:50 AM
  #5040  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (28)
 
hanulec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: @ the post office
Posts: 9,605
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by hana166 View Post
That sounds brilliant. So you've got a bottle of fluid at the bottom, diff in the middle and a syringe on top to suck the air out from the top, pulling the fluid in from the bottom so there's no air left/perfect bleed? Genius, so easy!
maybe we can come up with a new term -- "that is so Oleg!"
he is the innovator here!
hanulec is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.