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Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)

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Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)

Old 07-25-2013, 08:49 PM
  #3916  
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Originally Posted by Monti View Post
Here is a pic of my servo mount converted to a fan mount. Hanulec was the genius behind the idea.

Monti
New idea -- add 2-3mm between servo mount and fan to offer better airflow

Originally Posted by hana166 View Post
Thinking about shimming the drivetrain up 1mm in order to flatten the driveshaft angle. Can I expect more traction or less. Never used this adjustment when I had a conventional TC so was considering giving it a go. Anyone who knows what effect raising the diffs has please chime in.
More traction
Tony Tam did this at TITC
I've been running HUGE ride heights outside which does the similar change. 6mm front, 6.5mm rear
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by hana166 View Post
Thinking about shimming the drivetrain up 1mm in order to flatten the driveshaft angle. Can I expect more traction or less. Never used this adjustment when I had a conventional TC so was considering giving it a go. Anyone who knows what effect raising the diffs has please chime in.
Unfortunately, unlike other cars we dont have the current ability to use eccentrics that would allow us to effectively change the height of the diffs (low/med/high) independent from raising the bulkhead heights. I have been running a 1.5mm up configuration on one of my cars since March - has worked on every outdoor surface. The change has an effect on axle plunge and CG.

The higher positions gives me flatter car + more responsive car. It feels like it yields more overall traction > looking at the rear of the car - the driveshafts have a much less radical angle. I havent tried the same car on carpet but on low/med/high bite asphalt the car has been a contender.

In addition to other explorations like running higher ride heights, softer chassis and t-cut top deck the cars have been awesome (pun here!)

Good luck!

Last edited by MDawson; 07-26-2013 at 12:27 AM.
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:53 PM
  #3918  
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Originally Posted by Monti View Post
Here is a pic of my servo mount converted to a fan mount. Hanulec was the genius behind the idea.

Monti
Lets say it is an approach. Perhaps I have donated one too many fans to the graveyard by mounting in that same location.

The best mousetrap so far is:


R1 sells this unit. Buy the unit, run their fans or another. Dont look back. I have ran the same fans since November with this mount. You can still side-mount it if you want or rotate to the 10 o'clock position to get them out of harms way.
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by hana166 View Post
Thinking about shimming the drivetrain up 1mm in order to flatten the driveshaft angle. Can I expect more traction or less. Never used this adjustment when I had a conventional TC so was considering giving it a go. Anyone who knows what effect raising the diffs has please chime in.
Before the Reedy Race I spent a half day at a local track ( see video ) trying to compare the effect of adding shims under the drivetrain ( 2mm ). Considering pollen slowly collecting on the track I wasn't able to come to a full conclusion but can say I felt some added grip due to the addition of the shims raising the drivetrain ( CG ) and altering the driveshaft angle.

I also tried EVD driveshafts in the rear vs the standard driveshafts. The EVD appeared to make the rear more predictable / easier to drive and yet adding some corner speed. That being said, the conditions changed so it was hard to come to a confident conclusion.

I think it is worth exploring more and it appears Mark has had good luck raising the drivetrain too during an extended period of testing / racing.

about the video : every few minutes or so there will be a title overlaid explaining the changes made to the car during each segment.

http://youtu.be/Q860st3lV0Y

Jake D.

Last edited by Magnet Top; 07-26-2013 at 12:14 AM.
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Old 07-26-2013, 02:25 AM
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Mike, Jake and Mark - Thanks for your prompt responses, it means I can do this job today - and sorry for the long post, I just wanted to explain where I'm going with this.

I'm making a 2mm chassis so I can lower the car by 1mm for the same ride height. It should bring the overall weight down with BRCA tyres (+LW SP6), and increase flex but without using the cuts which (might) make it smoother to drive. Last year I milled down an old worn plate to 2mm and quite liked it.

The main concern was the thinner plate will steepen the driveshaft angle, and by your responses this is definitely not good. So I'm going to add 2mm underneath the drivetrain so its 1mm above default. As a bonus I wont have to cut a recess for the motor which means the chassis will have even flex throughout.

Yesterday I started on the chassis, and milled down the shock brackets to reduce the required recess to 1mm so the chassis doesn't wear out too quickly.

Last edited by hana166; 10-11-2013 at 10:48 PM.
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Old 07-26-2013, 02:46 AM
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Hi all,

can someone insert pictures that explain how to install the shims under the drivetrain and how it affects the assembly of the car and the upperdeck in particular?
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Old 07-26-2013, 04:32 AM
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Originally Posted by radioriodio View Post
Hi all,

can someone insert pictures that explain how to install the shims under the drivetrain and how it affects the assembly of the car and the upperdeck in particular?
I don't have pics-- but you effective add shims under-
1. Front and rear bulkheads (am01)
2. Motor mount (assume am03)
3. Drive shaft tower (am11)

You also need to be careful how you adjust the servo, and the at21 rod might hit the drive shaft at04.
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Old 07-26-2013, 09:13 AM
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Interestingly while chatting to Awesomatix owner & designer Oleg Babich over lunch he told me they are set to enter the electric offroad market potentially next year. Breaking the design trends with his A700 touring car, Oleg said so far he has only had time to put together some rough design ideas for the buggy but asking him if it would feature his unique damper design he said it would as he wanted to come to he market with something different to what is already on offer, a formula that worked well for the Russian newcomer when it entered touring cars.
A little tidbit from RedRC.
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Old 07-26-2013, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
A little tidbit from RedRC.
Looking forward to trading in my B4.2
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Old 07-26-2013, 12:54 PM
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ROAR Region 2 asphalt series wraps up tomorrow @ MRH, Awesomatix USA will be there in force
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Old 07-26-2013, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by radioriodio View Post
Hi all,

can someone insert pictures that explain how to install the shims under the drivetrain and how it affects the assembly of the car and the upperdeck in particular?
If anyone tries this , just don't forget to reduce the number of shims under all the inner "camber/caster" ( upper ) links to maintain your current setup.
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Old 07-26-2013, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
ROAR Region 2 asphalt series wraps up tomorrow @ MRH, Awesomatix USA will be there in force
oh yes! cannot wait for tomorrow. hope we can crown some winners who rock the shaft.
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Old 07-28-2013, 06:34 PM
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What do you guys do setup wise on asphalt when the track gets hot? Like 140F plus.
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Old 07-28-2013, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
What do you guys do setup wise on asphalt when the track gets hot? Like 140F plus.
There isnt a ton you can do that will make you go as fast as when the track is cooler.. Maybe a little more damping (same spring rate), and if you use sauce like FX2 or LG1, go to a sauce like Tweak or LG2. Other than that, the biggest adjustment you can make is as a driver, make a big effort to drive easier, dont lock up, dont slide, and the tires will be happier at the end of the run. I know if my local track is 140 instead of 120, its like 6 secs slower so you just have to eat it and do the best you can that round.

If you arent running spec tires, go up 1 shore 30s to 36s, etc.
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Old 07-28-2013, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
What do you guys do setup wise on asphalt when the track gets hot? Like 140F plus.
Move to oil based tire additives. If you arent stuck with spec tires - select tires in the 34-36 range, air gap is your friend.

We have ran most of the summer with 135+ track temps. Our cars tend to stay more consistent in the warmer temps with the dampener design.
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