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Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)

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Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)

Old 11-01-2012, 03:59 AM
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Originally Posted by hana166 View Post
Perhaps it is the profile of the teeth.

The plastic gears are similar or same profile as Spec-R but slightly lower. I found they are a little notchy. OK but not great.

The Xray gear diff is amazingly smooth even under load, the best I have seen by far. It makes a big difference in the handling and confidence, especially on power.

If we could have diff gears that perform at that level I am sure the car would make a laptime even lower.
Yes, agree! The X-ray gear is perfect and here the guys running TC6 also chose X-ray gears. I ran 417 before and the 2nd version diff is far better than the 1st spec-r gear.

Many people overlook the diff gear smoothness and this is critical to the laptime.
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:06 AM
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Btw I try the ball diff today. The on power steering is very responsive and good traction on corner exit. But this ball diff has a serious oil leakage problem.
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by tinngsmile View Post
Btw I try the ball diff today. The on power steering is very responsive and good traction on corner exit. But this ball diff has a serious oil leakage problem.
Hi,

I also tried the balldiff and I liked it very much. Conditions where low-medium traction outdoors asphalt.
My balldiff has never leaked. Make sure you apply the right amount of oil inside.
It does not require a lot, just enough to fill in the gaps.
Usually I take out one outdrive when assemplying it with the oil inside to help excess oil come out and then I re install the outdrive.
After that it has silky smooth operation and does not leak at all.

Regards,
John
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:41 AM
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Originally Posted by John Doucakis View Post
Hi,

I also tried the balldiff and I liked it very much. Conditions where low-medium traction outdoors asphalt.
My balldiff has never leaked. Make sure you apply the right amount of oil inside.
It does not require a lot, just enough to fill in the gaps.
Usually I take out one outdrive when assemplying it with the oil inside to help excess oil come out and then I re install the outdrive.
After that it has silky smooth operation and does not leak at all.

Regards,
John

Thx for your advice.

I plan to switch to ball diff, any idea how long does it needs maintenance?
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:54 AM
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I've already done more than 10 runs with it without any hint of performance change.
On the average I change oil every 6-8 runs as a precaution and because I experiment with different viscosities.
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Old 11-01-2012, 05:16 AM
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Originally Posted by narcotiks View Post
Had them great design but super weak...i broke 3 of them and at 30 bucks a piece wasnt happy.....like i said great design but super weak flimsy bracket.
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Old 11-01-2012, 05:58 AM
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I too like the ball diff. John gives good advice, I also put in one outdrive first then assemble. Incredibly smooth, and consistent.

Mine slips too much for my liking. I understand others might not agree but I think the plate material is too hard. I fitted standard steel balls, much softer than ceramic, and this almost eliminated the slip completely. However I do prefer the gear diff for the rear, I really like the forward bite it provides.

Also the ball diff is quite good in the front with 500,000 cst. Definitely worth a try if you're into experimenting.
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:52 AM
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Is the A700 L suited for mod racing indoor carpet. I can't find an explanation of what the difference is to a EX
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:12 PM
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So i looked over everything and im not having any problems with po1 po2 or po4....the problems im having are the arm itself is popping off the at21 balls that are mounted on the chassis everytime i tap a board .......everything else stays together.......if theres a fix for that !...let me know.
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by theatriks View Post
So i looked over everything and im not having any problems with po1 po2 or po4....the problems im having are the arm itself is popping off the at21 balls that are mounted on the chassis everytime i tap a board .......everything else stays together.......if theres a fix for that !...let me know.
I would have always replaced P03 after it popped off, I think they start to stretch over time. If there is any wear marks on at21 (shouldn't be) replace it too.
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Old 11-02-2012, 02:46 PM
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Hi all,

is it possible to use Tamiya 0.4 gears motor and spur on the A700L?

Thanks,
G-rem
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Old 11-03-2012, 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by G-rem View Post
Hi all,

is it possible to use Tamiya 0.4 gears motor and spur on the A700L?

Thanks,
G-rem
No one?
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by G-rem View Post
Hi all,

is it possible to use Tamiya 0.4 gears motor and spur on the A700L?

Thanks,
G-rem
Yes , The only problem is limited spur gear sizes . I think the smallest spur from Tamiya is 111 tooth .They do have a 96 and a 104 but they are spec gears just for the F-1 and will not work on a touring car. So if your running any Spec class ,17.5 or 13.5 ,your spur will not be small enough . You can run Tamya pinions with 64 pitch spurs ,but you have to run gear mesh a hair looser .
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Old 11-04-2012, 09:36 AM
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hello,

i had a race today at longwy rc track...the track had a good gripp on it and a little bit bumpy on the straight..i'm on A700L version using the kit soft springs and dampers..and heard that those springs are made for asphalt..can someone help me out...

thanks.
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Old 11-06-2012, 09:53 AM
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Default A700L

Just a few pics of the new car

Last edited by hana166; 10-11-2013 at 10:48 PM.
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