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Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)

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Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)

Old 10-29-2012, 09:59 AM
  #2536  
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Hey,
I haven't raced my A700 for 5 months and now i saw that a quite significant amount of oil has leaked out of the dampers.
Is this a common problem and does it affect the handling in any way?
Regards David
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:11 AM
  #2537  
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Originally Posted by niemand View Post
Hey,
I haven't raced my A700 for 5 months and now i saw that a quite significant amount of oil has leaked out of the dampers.
Is this a common problem and does it affect the handling in any way?
Regards David
I emailed Oleg about that issue as my car had the same deal. He said that theres so much residual oil in the dampers from assembly that it will leak for about 5 months. I did acually have a bad damper on my car, I'm just waiting for new ones.

I would say as long as they all fell the same you are OK.
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:16 AM
  #2538  
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I have some tips for the metall gears.

Please try to use only two of the small gears instead of four. This will make the diff more smooth. Just go up with the oil, around 2000-3000cst.

After the first assembling, run in the diff, open it again, clean it with brake cleaner and refill it.
This will help to get all the dust and maybe some small metall parts from production out.

Freddy
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Old 10-29-2012, 11:46 AM
  #2539  
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Originally Posted by sprintcarracer View Post
I emailed Oleg about that issue as my car had the same deal. He said that theres so much residual oil in the dampers from assembly that it will leak for about 5 months. I did acually have a bad damper on my car, I'm just waiting for new ones.

I would say as long as they all fell the same you are OK.
OK, thanks for the info.

Is there a conversion kit or a list of parts neccessary to convert an A700 to an A700L?

Regards David
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:08 AM
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Hello,

what are the parts and options needed to have on the car and in his box to prevent crashes,...?

Thanks,
G-rem
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:21 AM
  #2541  
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to "prevent crashes"? LOL
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:51 AM
  #2542  
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Originally Posted by G-rem View Post
Hello,

what are the parts and options needed to have on the car and in his box to prevent crashes,...?

Thanks,
G-rem
fingers ;-)
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:25 AM
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Yeah, but a transplant costs tooooo much ;-)

I mean by "prevent crashes", what parts do I have to get if ever ;-)
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Old 10-31-2012, 08:18 AM
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A700L in stock on awesomatix website

Nearly finished my build
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Old 10-31-2012, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by G-rem View Post
Yeah, but a transplant costs tooooo much ;-)

I mean by "prevent crashes", what parts do I have to get if ever ;-)

I have never broken one part on my a700 the parts are very well engineered the issue is when you do tap a board the arm pops off the ball studs....you need to be a very good wheel to race this car and benefit from it.....if your tapping boards a lot you will never finish a race with this car
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Old 10-31-2012, 08:45 AM
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what is the difference between a A700, A700EX and A700L?
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Old 10-31-2012, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by yumlailai View Post
what is the difference between a A700, A700EX and A700L?

A post from Freddy a couple pages back,

Both are working well. The L chassis is the narrow one, with the new flex option but you can only run std. Motor layout north/ south. It has little bit more steering and change of load is perfekt.

The EX chassis is little bit wider, has also the new flex options but you can use the transverse motor kit. The chassis has a lot traction and is very easy to drive.

So, L has less rear traction, but good and very fast reaction and EX chassis is maximum easy to drive and very smooth.

All the stock guys at ETS used the L chassis with soft flex settings.
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:06 AM
  #2548  
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Originally Posted by theatriks View Post
I have never broken one part on my a700 the parts are very well engineered the issue is when you do tap a board the arm pops off the ball studs....you need to be a very good wheel to race this car and benefit from it.....if your tapping boards a lot you will never finish a race with this car

Have you tried glueing the outer joint together? Oleg suggested this to me, and I am very surprised how good it works... Before I glued them a tap with the board was a 50/50 chance of popping it off... with glue, I have had zero issues.. It has built my confidence in the durability of the car.

P.S. full range of adjustment is still possilbe.
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Old 10-31-2012, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Korgae View Post
Have you tried glueing the outer joint together? Oleg suggested this to me, and I am very surprised how good it works... Before I glued them a tap with the board was a 50/50 chance of popping it off... with glue, I have had zero issues.. It has built my confidence in the durability of the car.

P.S. full range of adjustment is still possilbe.
Glueing the outer joint ? Are you talking about the plastic ball end that goes together up top to adjust camber? I'm talking the lower carbon fiber arm snaps onto ball studs that are mounted on the chassis ....I'm not sure how glue would help the arm from popping off the chassis ball studs?....I don't think there's a solution for that yet ....but you need a weak point and awesomatix I think came up with a good design where the arm pops rather then something breaking...like I said wicked car in the hands of a really good driver.......night mare for guys who are tapping boards.
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Old 10-31-2012, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by theatriks View Post
Glueing the outer joint ? Are you talking about the plastic ball end that goes together up top to adjust camber? I'm talking the lower carbon fiber arm snaps onto ball studs that are mounted on the chassis ....I'm not sure how glue would help the arm from popping off the chassis ball studs?....I don't think there's a solution for that yet ....but you need a weak point and awesomatix I think came up with a good design where the arm pops rather then something breaking...like I said wicked car in the hands of a really good driver.......night mare for guys who are tapping boards.
There is a bit of flashing, left from the injection mold, on P04 at the bottom where it mates with the graphite arm. Make sure that's cut/sanded/filed down, and it sits nice and square in the graphite arm. You should be able to tighten it down until it binds the bottom ball from the upright then back it off just a touch. I also put a drop of oil in there so that it could be slightly more snug but still move freely. Since that time, I never popped an upright out of the arm.
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