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Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)

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Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)

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Old 05-11-2012, 09:56 AM
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Well, I finally managed to break a part on the A700 last night. 'Break' might not be the best word choice here. The universal ring popped off after an encounter with the board causing the front universal to seperate. I eventually found the front U bone, U ring, bushings, and 1 of the 2 U-joint cross pieces all intact and in working condition. I was pleasantly surprised that nothing was bent, cracked, and/or deformed in any way. So at the end of the day I managed to lose a U-joint/pin. Unfortunatley, it ended my night as I didn't have a spare U-joint. Has anyone tried the new/revised front universal ring (A700-P20)? Does it seem to do a better job of holding the front universals together? I'll be putting an order together and will be giving these a try.
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Old 05-11-2012, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by John.C View Post
Well, I finally managed to break a part on the A700 last night. 'Break' might not be the best word choice here. The universal ring popped off after an encounter with the board causing the front universal to seperate. I eventually found the front U bone, U ring, bushings, and 1 of the 2 U-joint cross pieces all intact and in working condition. I was pleasantly surprised that nothing was bent, cracked, and/or deformed in any way. So at the end of the day I managed to lose a U-joint/pin. Unfortunatley, it ended my night as I didn't have a spare U-joint. Has anyone tried the new/revised front universal ring (A700-P20)? Does it seem to do a better job of holding the front universals together? I'll be putting an order together and will be giving these a try.
They work well. Cheap insurance
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by MDawson View Post
They work well. Cheap insurance
Thanks Mark!! BTW did you move to Cali??
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by John.C View Post
Thanks Mark!! BTW did you move to Cali??
House is ready. Moving just after the Reedy Race
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by MDawson View Post
House is ready. Moving just after the Reedy Race
Wow congrats! I'm sure it's to pursue bigger and better things. Good luck on your move!
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Old 05-11-2012, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by John.C View Post
Wow congrats! I'm sure it's to pursue bigger and better things. Good luck on your move!
Thank you John. Couldn't be more excited. Hold down the Awesomatix hope on the East Coast. You are the only hope
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Old 05-19-2012, 11:39 AM
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Could somebody explains to me which are the criteria for symetric/asymetric dampering?

Does it depend on the relative grip of the track?

Thanks
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Old 05-19-2012, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Airwave View Post
Could somebody explains to me which are the criteria for symetric/asymetric dampering?

Does it depend on the relative grip of the track?

Thanks
the answer is in your A700 manual
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Old 05-19-2012, 12:41 PM
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huh... Could you please indicate me the page, because the only information I have is page 37, where there is a short explanation about what are symmetric and asymmetric modes...

But no clue about what track conditions should help me chose between the two modes...

Sorry if this is a dumb question...
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Old 05-19-2012, 01:16 PM
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Default AWESOMATIX A700 Ball diff

It's been a while since my last r/c related post in my blog.
I recently purchased a ball diff in order to use it as an alternative tuning option for low grip conditions following the remarks of some of the users.

Here you may get an idea of what it looks like:




a few more detials here:

JD RACING BLOG
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Old 05-19-2012, 03:38 PM
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Nice I'm impatient to read your test..

I'm really unable to make it work as I want. I try to mount it with silicone oil and I can't prevent the diff to loosen...

And today, I mount it with standard greases and it was a lot slippy...

I must do something wrong, but I can't find what...
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Old 05-19-2012, 04:36 PM
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I built mine with 1.000 Xray cst oil and it seems to operate correctly.
I don't fill any slip and action is silky smooth.

Have you treated the diff plates with sandpaper as per the instructions?
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Old 05-19-2012, 04:58 PM
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yep with 400 - 600 - 800 - 1000...
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Old 05-20-2012, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Airwave View Post
yep with 400 - 600 - 800 - 1000...
TBH I spent considerable time with the ball diff including making a sanding tool on my lathe to hold the plates making sanding much easier and more precise but I found the slipping a real problem when used with 16 or 8 balls, fluid filled, unless you overtighten. Its not that obvious at first that its slipping. Don't get me wrong, car feels good, reactive, great rotation but as soon as you get to a big outdoor track there is a clear lack of forward bite in comparison to the gear diff.

Overall, I was quicker with the gear diff everywhere under all conditions, I really like the balance for my driving style with 2000 CST
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Old 05-20-2012, 08:55 AM
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Just a note for something I found maybe it will help someone

I found my car not feeling so good for a few weeks and decided for a major rebuild. I found that after some (bigger) crashes one leaf spring bent slightly. Very difficult to notice. I think it is important to check regularly as it seems to have a big impact on the laptime, as I replaced it and went seriously quicker immediately

I notice a number of drivers using o rings on the suspension, to remove slack, I say this should be unnecessary in most cases if you set the preloads perfectly

After replacing the damaged spring I bend the end so there is a tiny, tiny gap to SPR02, so there is no pre-tension in the system when the suspension is at rest.

Then set the droop and get them identical L-R. Then wind out the preload until the slack appears. Balance the preloads by turning 1/6 at a time until both sides have the tiniest, but equal amount of slack, then add 1/6 turn, you should find the suspension return onto the downstop perfectly, but of course now the preload is the same L-R.

So when you set the ride height just turn exactly the same amount both sides so you know where you are when making adjustments

Naturally the car needs to be balanced L-R on pins etc to begin with

I found the slack appeared when the car had too little preload on opposite corners, the car settled flat so you think all is well but the digital scales showed this up

I find now the car extremely consistent from corner to corner and particularly easier to get on the power on exit as it pulls so straight. It pulled straight before, so its difficult to explain, but there is somehow more confidence to drive at the limit when the preloads are matched very precisely
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