Oleg Babich

LRP TCM 2012 setup from Steen Graversen is on our site now:
http://awesomatix.com/download/
Congratulations to Steen with 5th place overall!

hana166

iTrader: (2)

To fix spur without destroying your car, remove the whole assembly with one screw, alloy holder AM13, then simply tighten while holding the spur in hand, you can get a lot of torque that way. Never had one come loose.

About shaft ST06 and shimming G01...I did not follow the instruction here with threadlock etc. There is a much better solution. This shaft is slightly too short so when tightening up it was crushing the 4x8 bearings inside G01. I put spacers between the bearings themselves, shimming and retightening until all free play was removed but it (G01) rolled free. So now you can fully tighten the 3x5 lock screw without fear, or the need for threadlock. You can then shim in or out for mesh if necessary, I actually shimmed G02 forward to meet G01, it will run perfectly, no lash, no play, you can just forget about it, you will never have to adjust it again, even if you change spur by loosening AM13, the whole assembly just goes back spot on.

I started out with transverse as I thought the car would be just too much of a culture shock first time out. Rather noisy but I can understand why it was designed with hardened gears, there is a fair bit of force on them. I found it much more off putting to my competitors than myself, and have gained places from it. Just hit the throttle hard when you're getting close, the gear whine will force a mistake

erchn

iTrader: (7)

Excellent. I will try another .1mm, and just mess with getting the mesh in general to be tighter, until that sweet plastic option is available. ;-)

I do now remove AM13 when tightening/removing, I didn't in the past, hence the broken G01 tooth. My problem is that to get G01 to not slip you have to torque down pretty hard, and once done, it's quite difficult to remove at a later time. I feel like there must be a better solution, like the pins from AT20.

I will have to take things apart and figure out where you are shimming. Do you mean you are essentially creating a collar inside G01, to keep the bearings from crushing?

As far as reducing lash by shimming G01 closer to G02, I would think that if you shimmed G01 away from the spur gear slightly that you would increase the risk of the spur slipping, as it seems like the backside of G01 that grips the spur after securing the spur nut. But, like I said, I'll go play around more with these methods.

Thanks,
Ethan

scoyle

When will the next batch of A700's be available to buy?

hana166

iTrader: (2)

Yeah its not ideal removing the whole thing but it works great

Yes exactly a collar between the bearings to prevent crushing

I haven't shimmed away from the spur. You are exactly right the backside of G01 grips the spur. I reduced the lash between the two hardened bevel gears by moving G02 forward towards G01 (G02 connects with the central shaft) by 0.2mm making a nice close mesh onto G01.

G01 is set furthest towards the centre of the car, no shims.

The spacers between bearings stops G01 wandering and changing mesh under power, so the whole thing is tight, but free if you know what I mean

Really has solved the issues completely

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

Hey guys are the 3 steering bearings 8x4x4?
Also, spur sizes (64t) in the longitudinal position for 17.5....any suggestions?

Velocitygt

iTrader: (4)

Used kit sold. Still have new kit for sale.

Cheers!

rc-opa

Hi,
is there a posibility to buy these kits in europe?
Thanks

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

So, as a means of trying to figure out the car for asphalt, I've done my usual and produced a roll centre calculator, that helps to give an indication of where the car is... and as I suspected, the rear is higher than the front, which is probably why the car at the moment always feels snappy. In addition, compared to a lot of other cars out there, the RC is quite high, again probably why the soft soft setups work!

It's kind of useful to play around with, but I'll add the caveat that it's not the defacto roll centre, and doesn't take into account the dynamic movement.. but I used something similar before to get a Losi working well, so it has previous in terms of assistance.

HiH
Ed

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

Great work. Do you have similar sheets for the 417 as well?

hana166

iTrader: (2)

+1

Thanks so much for this - very informative !

Generally I run both ends identical including spring tension and damping, seems to make sense as there is no rear arm sweep to confuse things, and play with subtle changes to ackerman, castor and battery position which I feel is the most powerful adjustment I've ever used

TBH For wishbone pivot points I just measured my Xray, my fave was position 0 RC blocks, which was 5mm over chassis + 2.5 chassis = 7.5mm. A700 the pivot of the ball is 4mm, chassis 3mm so I added 0.5mm shims all round under wishbones and left it at that, its worked really well

Would like to take a fresh look at roll centre as my understanding of set up improves

Oleg Babich

8x4x3 ( the width is 3mm).

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

It doesn't have tire diameter.

-Mike

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

80T

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Hi Mike,

The reason you point out is one reason why it's not defacto roll-centre, as it uses the outer face of the hex as reference (so no wheel offset), and assumes a set tyre dia of 62mm... Use it as a comparison tool only, to get an idea of what changes what, and a ball park.

Like I mention in the sheet, when I ran the Tamiya, the stock RC's out of that tool were F -2.6, R -5. When I ran the same tool on the Losi, I found the rear had the RC too low, so targeted a similar level of split to the tamiya... lo and behold, got my best result of the season after doing that!

MD I've got a TRF416 version, never bothered with the 417, as very little change between the cars (upper inner link really).

HiH
Ed