143LikesAwesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)
01-30-2012, 12:22 PM
#1501
In any case you have to move the electrics to achieve balance on the pins, no amount of preload adjustment on the scales will alter this.
Last edited by hana166; 01-30-2012 at 12:33 PM.
01-30-2012, 12:45 PM
#1502
I fully believe you when you say there is no tweak but the thing is the readings on the scales are useless to you right now because of the procedure you're using.
Balance L-R FIRST (use pins) BEFORE using the scales, then use the suspension on the scales. The scales are trying to tell you primarily about the suspension preload situation but you have disconnected this.
If you know the car is balanced L-R and is straight if you're heavy on opposite corners it means you need to back off the preload in those heavy corners and the car will balance right out just like that, like magic. It doesn't mean the car is actually heavy in those corners, as you balanced it beforehand, it just means the wheel is pressing too hard there.
The readings can only make sense if the car is de-tweaked and balanced beforehand, or the readings will be a combination of tweak, unbalanced preload settings and incorrect primary L-R balance all mixed together, which is what you've got, and there's no way of telling which is which until you separate out these variables.
Hopefully someone else will chime in with a better explanation I'm useless at it
Balance L-R FIRST (use pins) BEFORE using the scales, then use the suspension on the scales. The scales are trying to tell you primarily about the suspension preload situation but you have disconnected this.
If you know the car is balanced L-R and is straight if you're heavy on opposite corners it means you need to back off the preload in those heavy corners and the car will balance right out just like that, like magic. It doesn't mean the car is actually heavy in those corners, as you balanced it beforehand, it just means the wheel is pressing too hard there.
The readings can only make sense if the car is de-tweaked and balanced beforehand, or the readings will be a combination of tweak, unbalanced preload settings and incorrect primary L-R balance all mixed together, which is what you've got, and there's no way of telling which is which until you separate out these variables.
Hopefully someone else will chime in with a better explanation I'm useless at it
Thanks everyone for your help.
Ethan
01-30-2012, 12:47 PM
#1503
Does any one has this problem with their IAS?
my IAS is getting loose and sloppy. it seem be the bearings is wear and tear commom to the sliding Alum. steering rack ,the plus the bearing is falling apart . Why is the IAS is thinner than the stock steering rack.
MR Oleg please check your PM Thanks
my IAS is getting loose and sloppy. it seem be the bearings is wear and tear commom to the sliding Alum. steering rack ,the plus the bearing is falling apart . Why is the IAS is thinner than the stock steering rack.
MR Oleg please check your PM Thanks
Last edited by OVA; 01-30-2012 at 01:01 PM.
01-30-2012, 01:02 PM
#1504
Tech Fanatic
I think that outer edge of your B74RS bearing is broken away.
Last edited by Oleg Babich; 01-30-2012 at 01:12 PM.
01-30-2012, 01:27 PM
#1505
So, now that I've taken up everyone's time with my tweak nonsense...
I thought I'd try to be helpful and mention that for anyone who used to use a straight bar, or the use of a friend to hold the chassis flat, while detweaking, a standard paint stirring stick works very well on this car. The "handle" of the stick has cutouts, as seen here, and when appropriately positioned straddles the spur gear, sitting on the flat spot of each diff/spool cover. Also, they happen to be free at most paint stores.
Yea, that's the best I have today.
I thought I'd try to be helpful and mention that for anyone who used to use a straight bar, or the use of a friend to hold the chassis flat, while detweaking, a standard paint stirring stick works very well on this car. The "handle" of the stick has cutouts, as seen here, and when appropriately positioned straddles the spur gear, sitting on the flat spot of each diff/spool cover. Also, they happen to be free at most paint stores.
Yea, that's the best I have today.
01-30-2012, 01:51 PM
#1506
Tech Fanatic
Is anyone else having some troubles getting your car to balance on all four corners? See attachment, showing my corner weights with 0 weight added. Left to right balance is great, within a couple grams. But my left front and right rear corners are about 30 grams heavier without the body, and about 35-40 heavier with a body, than the other side.
My only thought at this point is that the heavy corners happen to hold the ring side of the ring and pinion for both the spool and the gear diff.
Note: I've taken as many precautions as I can to ensure proper measurement. For instance, measuring with car forward, then car reversed to eliminate the levelness of the surface from being the issue. Also, I've set the droop at exactly 5mm all the way around, and then used set screws in the uptravel stops to secure the arm at that location. With setup wheels on, the car sits at 5.9mm ride height all the way around, and shocks are disconnected. I've also changed the setup to set shocks at 3mm for the A measurement, all the way around. Finally, I've loosened the top deck and just barely snugged down the top link ball studs, to ensure there's no tweak.
See photos at this URL of what I'm describing. Also, see attached spreadsheet image below.
I suppose this could simply be a matter of the battery to far back, second from rearmost position, and the electronics stacked too far forward, but my layout doesn't seem much different from any other pictures I've seen.
Thanks for any help you might provide.
Ethan
My only thought at this point is that the heavy corners happen to hold the ring side of the ring and pinion for both the spool and the gear diff.
Note: I've taken as many precautions as I can to ensure proper measurement. For instance, measuring with car forward, then car reversed to eliminate the levelness of the surface from being the issue. Also, I've set the droop at exactly 5mm all the way around, and then used set screws in the uptravel stops to secure the arm at that location. With setup wheels on, the car sits at 5.9mm ride height all the way around, and shocks are disconnected. I've also changed the setup to set shocks at 3mm for the A measurement, all the way around. Finally, I've loosened the top deck and just barely snugged down the top link ball studs, to ensure there's no tweak.
See photos at this URL of what I'm describing. Also, see attached spreadsheet image below.
I suppose this could simply be a matter of the battery to far back, second from rearmost position, and the electronics stacked too far forward, but my layout doesn't seem much different from any other pictures I've seen.
Thanks for any help you might provide.
Ethan
1. I hope that your chassis is really flat
2. I hope that you scales are really flat also.
0.3mm difference in left/right scales height can give 30gr difference
3. In case of 1). and 2). are OK please screw your RF and LR RH Screws
down a bit and equalize left/rigt scales values.
4. Check your left and right ride height. In case of your car has different
ride height now please screw ~equally front and rear RH Screws
on the same side ( left or right) to equalize ride height for left and right
side.
5. Check your front and rear ride height. Please screw ~equally both
front RH Screws to get desirable front ride height and screw ~equally
both rear RH Screws to get desirable rear ride height .
6. Repeat 3). 4). 5). to get more precise setting.
There is a simple and fast method to get desirable ride height and equal left/right weight distribution without scales but if you want use 4 scales you must make all mentioned above steps.
01-30-2012, 02:24 PM
#1507
Hello Oleg,
On the latest Freddy's setup, I'm wondering if he's using fixed or floating topdeck. I'm not really sure about it. I'm a little bit confused, I'm never sure about how to read the setup sheet regarding the topdeck mounting.
Maybe Freddy can answer the question too.
Best regards,
Hugo
On the latest Freddy's setup, I'm wondering if he's using fixed or floating topdeck. I'm not really sure about it. I'm a little bit confused, I'm never sure about how to read the setup sheet regarding the topdeck mounting.
Maybe Freddy can answer the question too.
Best regards,
Hugo
01-30-2012, 02:54 PM
#1508
Hello Oleg,
On the latest Freddy's setup, I'm wondering if he's using fixed or floating topdeck. I'm not really sure about it. I'm a little bit confused, I'm never sure about how to read the setup sheet regarding the topdeck mounting.
Maybe Freddy can answer the question too.
Best regards,
Hugo
On the latest Freddy's setup, I'm wondering if he's using fixed or floating topdeck. I'm not really sure about it. I'm a little bit confused, I'm never sure about how to read the setup sheet regarding the topdeck mounting.
Maybe Freddy can answer the question too.
Best regards,
Hugo
http://www.rctech.net/forum/10190735-post1415.html
In other words, that setup sheet should be signifying a fixed topdeck.
01-30-2012, 08:28 PM
#1510
01-30-2012, 10:23 PM
#1511
Tech Fanatic
Hello Oleg,
On the latest Freddy's setup, I'm wondering if he's using fixed or floating topdeck. I'm not really sure about it. I'm a little bit confused, I'm never sure about how to read the setup sheet regarding the topdeck mounting.
Maybe Freddy can answer the question too.
Best regards,
Hugo
On the latest Freddy's setup, I'm wondering if he's using fixed or floating topdeck. I'm not really sure about it. I'm a little bit confused, I'm never sure about how to read the setup sheet regarding the topdeck mounting.
Maybe Freddy can answer the question too.
Best regards,
Hugo
Topdeck ends are fully fixed in Freddy's setup.
01-30-2012, 10:29 PM
#1512
Im looking at getting into tc, is this car harder to set up/ drive than all the others out there?? am i better off starting with an x12 or tc6
01-30-2012, 10:33 PM
#1513
Tech Fanatic
01-30-2012, 10:50 PM
#1514
Tech Regular
The car is super quick though
01-30-2012, 11:52 PM
#1515
Whilst it may look a fair bit more complicated, if your willing to put in the hours and have a read of a lot of the thread, then actually it's no more difficult to understand than a "conventional" car. I think the one thing that confuses a lot of people is the shocks, but once you've got your head round what does what (and I was surprised at how short a time it took), it's actually pretty simple to setup and run.
The only thing I would say, is it does require a bit of, umm, attention to detail in terms of setup. You do simply have to take your time, and check and re-check. But once it's set, the car seems to retain the settings well, not requiring re-adjustment every run to get the best from it.
to sum up that waffle... is it different, yes, is it harder to setup, a little, is it faster... yes!
HiH
Ed