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Old 12-29-2008, 09:00 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Atalon RC View Post
Is this car design for Asphalt or Carpet racing in mind
They designed it for both... that is the purpose of the springs on the damper tube.
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Old 12-31-2008, 09:45 AM   #17
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The car was tested on both surfaces and performed very well with all the new features it will fly on both surfaces.
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Old 12-31-2008, 12:13 PM   #18
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any more words on the car? and is there a link to the building manual? so far the car seems like its a good cheap alternative to the others on the market.
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Old 12-31-2008, 12:21 PM   #19
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Chris will be posting some pictures of his car today its pretty
I wanna see.
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Old 01-02-2009, 02:54 PM   #20
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Chris will be posting some pictures of his car today its pretty
?????Pictures??????
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Old 01-08-2009, 05:41 PM   #21
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Any word on how much longer us preorder customers are going to have to wait for the car?

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Old 01-08-2009, 05:50 PM   #22
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i wouldt hold your breathe this was suppose to come out before clev race.
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Old 01-08-2009, 10:06 PM   #23
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I hate to say this, but this car looks alot sililar to Lino Brosco's Hyperform-Racing Razor 12th scale car with the t-plate area milled out, along with the battery layout, and use of tubes.

Last edited by CarlosG.; 01-08-2009 at 10:07 PM. Reason: name of car.
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Old 01-08-2009, 10:11 PM   #24
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Still not available? Are the lower pod plate screw holes the same distance apart to run 12l4 pod plates? I want to do a brushless pod on my 12l4 and want to just buy the lower and upper plates.
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Old 01-15-2009, 01:58 PM   #25
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Default Clev. Set Up!

Hello everyone, sorry for the long delay in my post. I have done a lot of testing thanks to Big L. This car has a very big sweet spot. You can run the car with multiple set ups and it will drive like a cadillac. Standard issue on the mod ride is a .075 or spring steel. Use the .007 shims to controll your roll and rotation. By rasing the pivot ball equally you will stop chassis roll just like your touring car. By angling the the pivots (front higher) this will make the intial steering more aggressive and will rotate more. Clev. I ran .007 in the rear and .014 in the front. For damping. I prefer the Corally red syrup it last longer and takes less also there are 3 visc. I actually found the .075/spring steel was the most consistant and easy to drive. With this t-bar use 25-35 wt. oil grn or silv center spring. I actaully turned faster laps locally with the .060 and red side springs but it was not as consistant. I will work with it more at the birds under high bite. Close attention has to be given to the the damper tubes when using the springs. Release the tweak screws on the t-bar and adjust the tubes to have very little preload and equall preload. You will have to trim the ball ends about 1mm. You should be abel to look at the bottom of the lower pod plate and set it flush on both sides to the chassis. If it needs adj. simply cut the ball end or unscrew one. Now go back and set your preload on the t-bar tweak screws to stay touching at full travel. Here is a little tip from a former WC. Take ( with saftey glasses on) a couple of old xacto nife blades and break off the ends( the part that goes in the handle), dremel them straight. Glue them under your tweak screws to the graphite chassis. This will give you a more positive tweak setting and save your graphite. Use the green or silver center spring but with 30 - 40 wt. Stock racers might want to try a heavier center spring witht the softer t-bar setup. Both set ups I prefer 1 to 1.5 mm of droop in the rear and the front shock mount is 21 mm from the chassis to the center of the pivot ball (stnd associated mount with a med ball studd). I have been using the old associated front end with the 10deg. front blocks, full caster, .018 with .1 or .2 mm of droop I really like .1, using the heavy Corally syrup with the KSG grooved pivot balls for damping. It is very important to set the droop with OUT the damping fluid applied. Runing 1 to 1.5 deg. of camber and 1 to 1.5 deg. of tow out. I also made a graphite brace that has a little free play to flex out so the front end is braced and should not tweak. Tire Size Fronts 42mm rears 43 on Parma's. Combinations I recomend Double pink fronts or Parma Mag. Glue the outside. Rears Yellow or Mag. Corall on Parma's. Glue the bead. Stock racers might want to try other fronts. 3.5 mm on the ride height. Hopefully this helps everyone. I am working on drawings for new performance enhancement products for the current car and invisioning an updated more stylish looking components. Best of luck to everyone remeber if you cant run it full throttle then leave it on the trailer. LOL
TTYL CD RACING USA IFMAR WORLD CHAMPIONS
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Old 01-16-2009, 06:42 AM   #26
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Guys we are shipping cars as we speakas Chris said the car has a very sweet spot.
Attached Thumbnails
NEW  FTM12  SCALE CAR-ink-alignment.jpg  
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Old 01-16-2009, 10:45 PM   #27
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Email sent back. Looking foward to get some of the pod plates from you.
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