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Old 08-22-2010, 02:57 AM   #16
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since saddle pack lipos are now available, i tried them on my trusty dinoasaur car. i removed the upper covers of each pack, thencut a minimum on the middle ridges, i then soldered the 2 middle connectors together to form a very rigid unit. now the 2 halves are joined sturdily. i then superglued the two lower casings together, let them dry, and placed my lipo inside the lower casing. here is how it looks like.

now the batteries can sit gob smack through the center of the chassis, and its even more inside than the old style saddles ! have alook at the old NiMh saddle and compare with my improvement.

as you know you couldnt join the old style saddles together cause they will short out and burn.
the new style saddles in the chassis.

i guess this should improve the handling of the car greatly, better than using stick packs which stick out of the chassis, not to mention having the weight go through the center of the chassis. going to try the car out soon.
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Old 08-22-2010, 01:31 PM   #17
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I'm lovin' your bottom skidplates (pun intended)!!!!
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Old 08-22-2010, 05:57 PM   #18
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Good day!

I am running a Xray T1 FK04. I started out with a stick lipo across the back but I didnt like the weight so far out so now I have chainged it to the battery down one side. Now the weight is as close to the center as I can get it and the car is still in pefect ballance with the addad weights to bring it up to the 1420.
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Old 02-03-2011, 08:32 PM   #19
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i didnt give a report these last few months becuase the performance of the team drivers 4200mah saddle pack leaves much to be desired. Just bought a IP5200mah 45C saddle pack and its much much better. battery weight is 280g.
i also modified my kawada sv-10 alcyon2 EX into a alcyon 2 Ultimate, by removing the normal side top decks and replacing them with the Ultimate side top decks. this has the advantage of freeing up space in the middle of the car, as well as allowing the chassis to flex like all other cars. It also allows the batteries to be placed more forward. Becuase of this i had to flip the servo and shift the ESC forward. with the batteries on now, i have 50 - 50 front rear weight bias. of course with saddle pack cars, the L-R balance is always GOOD. previously the F-R weight balance was 53% rear, which translates to 60g heavier at the back ! this is a common problem for MANY Saddle pack cars back in the day.

as you can see rear shocks are stood up very straight to give better response. since it is this straight, i had to compensate by using softer springs, with 196g/mm force,to get the traction. i also installed the thickest antiroll bar at the back becuase the spring is so soft.

front shocks also stood up to the max for faster steering. Yokomo pink springs with 300g/mm force, and medium antiroll bars. the front shocks feel much harder than the rears.
Front and rear ball diffs. Sorex 40Rs.
the IP 5200s are placed at the edge of the chassis (108mm) wide.

now i do not have problems fitting ANY lipo battery in this car. Tested at a very large track, titiwangsa track in kuala lumpur. keep in mind the car is a saddle pack car that was obsolete as of december 2002. Using a HW 2.1 120A ESC and Team powers 10.5t motor, with turbo and boost activated, the car is extremely stable even at its blistering top speed, which was fast enough to overtake a 1/10 GP car in its second gear ! My SP car never showed any signs of sliding in the rear either off power or on power. if you took the corner too fast it would push, but even modern cars do that. braking was very stable and once slowed down enough could negotiate the 180 u turns with ease and contniuos turns were a easy too with partial throttle. The car was on rails ! proof that the saddle pack layout does work.
there is definetly benefits to having the motor in the center of the car with a marginally higher CG.

Last edited by alcyon; 02-04-2011 at 06:31 PM.
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