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Old 12-15-2008, 08:47 AM   #46
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The diff is what makes most pan cars handle well. A solid axle would be donut city IMO
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Old 12-15-2008, 01:38 PM   #47
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Ok, thanks. I work with 4WD cars, so I wanted to know if some of the same mechanics worked with 2WD. I now see that it doesn't.
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Old 12-15-2008, 01:48 PM   #48
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Raced a F103RM Anniversary Edition (carbon-filled front end) for the first time this weekend at FastCats. Noticed that the front wheels are wearing with a slight positive camber. Is there a method to correct this?
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Old 12-15-2008, 08:33 PM   #49
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Its true about the tires. There is no cure. rotate them from side to side to even out the wear, but eventually they'll wear to be too small to be useful.
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Old 12-15-2008, 08:43 PM   #50
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I went and practiced tonight. My silver can came off the track at only 100*. Time to add more gear to see if it heats back up again. Right now its quick in the infield, but lacks any top end. The silver can is geared at 104/22 at the moment. I'm going to swap in the 93 and see what results I get from my temp gauge. I did get rid of my lack of steering by applying compound across the entire front tire, wiping it off, letting it dry and then applying to the inside quarter. The front end stopped chattering and seems nice and glued now. With the low gearing the rear end breaks loose coming back on the throttle. I took a little more out of the diff and it responded well, but I lost some of the punch when it started slipping too much. A step in the wrong direction for sure.

More later as this experiment continues.
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Old 01-12-2009, 09:50 PM   #51
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Couple of things i noticed:
The dampner pucks on the f103R (15th anniv.) seem to need a lot thinner grease or oil than the ones on the RM. I went from 30k on the RM to 15k and got a similar feel...??

Also, if you are racing carpet, and you use the pivot ball suspension, removing the washer between the pivot ball and the tbar can help rotation, and take a bit of grip away. Seems less prone to traction roll as well.
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Old 01-12-2009, 11:08 PM   #52
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I have an F103RS that I am borrowing from a fellow racer whilst waiting for my 15th Anniversary kit to arrive...

I run on asphalt with rubber tyres and are currently having an understeer issue unless I slow down too much. The front tyres are TRG hards and the rears are TRG also. It is running pivot ball suspension with 35wt oil in the damper and a red spring.

Any suggestions on how to increase the grip at the front wheels? (without using traction compound)
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Old 01-13-2009, 02:49 AM   #53
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... double post. sorry
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Old 01-13-2009, 02:50 AM   #54
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use softer springs (silver) in front... or a harder spring at the rear

can also tighten up the diff a bit more.
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Old 01-13-2009, 03:11 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mok View Post
I have an F103RS that I am borrowing from a fellow racer whilst waiting for my 15th Anniversary kit to arrive...

I run on asphalt with rubber tyres and are currently having an understeer issue unless I slow down too much. The front tyres are TRG hards and the rears are TRG also. It is running pivot ball suspension with 35wt oil in the damper and a red spring.

Any suggestions on how to increase the grip at the front wheels? (without using traction compound)
I noticed a similar condition on carpet with my car. Basically, the wheelbase is pretty long, and the car is light, so it doesn't dump weight on the nose like a touring car. I'm running the lightest front spring, which I think is gold(??). That was helpful to me to get the balance closer. If you can run a stiffer center spring, that also helps.

Another idea that I do like, especially with the softer springs, is to actually preload the front springs slightly. You can do this with a shim, or by using the grub screw in the steering knuckle. A little preload helps to keep the weight over the nose. i noticed at times my car would sort of lift the front end with the soft springs, causing the understeer on power. The CRC 1/12 car uses this as a setup option, via kingpin length. Using the grub screw to control how much kingpin shows at the bottom of the knuckle is a similar idea.

One last thing with the pivot ball suspension is to lift the t bar as i mentioned in the last post. That will remove some rear grip, and help rotation.
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