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Old 10-04-2003, 09:51 PM   #16
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Well I do think I got a decent one...wish I had a facts machine to dyno it on although tuesday night at the races will tell me if it's a thug or a slug. After reading all the info in this thread (much thanks guys!) I've tweaked the hood alignment some and the initial amp draw went up slightly as did the RPM's

Hey whats the deal with serrated brushes ? Should I keep the serrations fresh with a serrating tool or just run the brushes in non serrated form
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Old 10-04-2003, 09:57 PM   #17
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Default To Serrate or not.

SteveG;

Ask 10 different People and you will probably get 10 different opinions.
I personally think that most Motors run Better if the Brushes have some serrations on them. So I reserrate after they are worn down.
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Old 10-05-2003, 06:29 AM   #18
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Just tried my monster "pro" on my pulsar and i got ~7.5A. Using 4499's that have had a few runs on them and the serations have all but gone. Ill get my buddy to skim it and a new set of brushes this week and see what numbers i get then
[Edit] Just changed the neg spring, went quite a lot stiffer, gain about an amp but it was arcing like made, i dont have any springs that are reversed to try out on the positive side.
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Old 10-05-2003, 07:11 AM   #19
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I like to use heavy springs on both sides fortouring, really light for 12th scale. My touring setup draws around 13 amps at 2.5 volts on my pulsar, and my 12th draws around 4.5 at the same voltage. I usually use 4499nt brushes
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Old 10-05-2003, 11:09 AM   #20
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Thanks Steven G


rcracingkid...how do you get 13 amps through your Pulsar ? I thought they were only good for 9
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Old 10-05-2003, 12:30 PM   #21
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Berger:

Try running the heaver spring on the POS side of the motor and see what you get. That should reduce the arching you see alot and you amp draw should be about the same.

If you get a chance, do this with no comm drops for the first test, then if you can get some Tribo Power Matrix try it again, I think you will be suprized and the better commutation and the HUGE reduction in wear on the comms.

NOTE: If you have used another type of comm drop on the brushes DO NOT USE Tribo. You need to use tribo on new brushes (e.g. no other comm drops used with them) as the other drops desolve or melt the brushs, or at least soak into them and will only gum up with Tribo. Tribo is a synthetic and has to be used by itself.

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Old 10-05-2003, 01:50 PM   #22
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Leave it to TRF to get it backwards
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Old 10-05-2003, 09:05 PM   #23
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I have 2 pulsar chargers, and both read amp draw up to 13.8 before they shut down sayinng draw too high. One is from about 5 months ago, and the other is 1 month old. I no the box says 9, but i guess i got lucky.
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Old 10-05-2003, 09:41 PM   #24
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Default Pulsar amp readings

Guys;

I think the instructions say 9 or 10 amps, but if it rises quickly then I've seen up to 13.5+ before. Doesn't matter, still shuts it down.

Try running at a lower voltage for a longer time until the Motor loosens up a little more. Should be alright after that.

BTW, my personal experience with Tribo Drops has shown severe Pitting of the Brushes after a run. Without Tribo, they look fine.

You Guys should really try the Putnam Brushes in your MS's. They make so much more Power than anything else.
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Old 10-05-2003, 10:01 PM   #25
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I dont like the putnam brushes because they are horrible on the comm.They create mad power but at my track I have yet to be beat by a Putnam user.I do like the axiom brushes.But I regularly use 767's and 4505.
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Old 10-06-2003, 01:10 AM   #26
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by racenut123
Leave it to TRF to get it backwards [/QUOT]



what i meant was if you have

a-motor which is a monster stock straight out of the box it pulls 5 amps at 3v.
b-motor which is monster stock has slight tuning on just springs and it pulls 6 amps at 3v.
c-motor which is monster stock has brushes aligned,new brushes,and spring tweaking and the comms been cut and it pulls 9 amps at 3v. then yeah c motor is the fastest.BUT.if you take c motor and compare it to d-motor which has everything that c-motor has and it has ballraces but it will pull 6 amps instead of 9amps.which is faster?c?no id think it will be d because the lower resistance of the ballraces will make it spin up quicker.
write?no,perhaps this is to technicall for you.
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Old 10-06-2003, 11:57 AM   #27
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Default Monster amp draw

trf racer;

Ballraces (Bearings) will reduce drag so Amp draw will be lower in your example. To be fair, you would need to install bearings in all 4 Motors for comparison.
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Old 10-06-2003, 12:15 PM   #28
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A motor that pulls more amps isn't necessarily going to be faster. It could just be more inefficient. Amps in won't match precisely with power out.
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Old 10-06-2003, 12:36 PM   #29
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If you all are talking about taking the amperage off a turbo35 from the motor-run, I seriously doubt you can relate the amp draw to how powerfull a motor is, here's an example, hold the end of the armature with the motor running at any giving volt and the amp draw will go straight to the moon. The best way to test a motor's power is by racing it on a track. When I break in my brushes my T35BL uses says around 3-4A's at 3V's.
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Old 10-06-2003, 01:04 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by sosidge
A motor that pulls more amps isn't necessarily going to be faster. It could just be more inefficient. Amps in won't match precisely with power out.
You've got to compare Apples to Apples not Oranges, and if the Apples have Worms (Un-aligned hoods, etc) then the comparison is not fair.

No one is trying to say that ABSOLUTELY, POSITIVELY a Motor with a higher amp Draw during break-in will definately be faster. As others have stated before there are MANY factors that contribute to a Motors amp load at a particular voltage.

But given identical Motors, with equal run-in time and equal tuning. The Motor with the higher amp draw will usually be faster, usually.

Last edited by popsracer; 10-06-2003 at 04:10 PM.
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