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Old 11-08-2008, 04:09 PM   #16
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Best advice is to go along to your local track and see what other guys are using. Especially if you are new to the wonderful world of 12th racing. There are LOADS of capable chassis's out there but all of them need to be setup well to get the best from them. Have a look to see if one car is the most popular at your club and maybe go with that. Life will be made easier if you do that because you can discuss setup alternations with your racing buddies. If you are not the best of drivers out there, the only car I would not reccomend you go with is the Corally 12X. It's a great car, no doubt about that, but it does have a couple of weak areas which break rather easily and cost a fair bit to replace. Feel free to ask as many questions as you like mate, no prob with that! Cheers, Chris.
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Old 11-08-2008, 05:25 PM   #17
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Thanks for the help guys, Would it be better to get a brushless or brushed motor????? Then which motor would you recommend.
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Last edited by jono mad racer; 11-09-2008 at 02:50 AM.
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Old 11-08-2008, 06:41 PM   #18
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Default New to 1/12 scale

didnt' want to threadjack ill start a new one
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Old 11-09-2008, 01:42 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Kingpin is the pin that goes through the suspension pivots and the steering block.

Some cars have an adjustable roll center in the front. The Speed Merchant front end can adjust the roll center by raising or lowering the upper suspension links. Most don't have that adjustment though. I guess doing a long upper arm conversion would change the roll center in the front as the relative angle of the upper arm to lower would change. At the rear you can change the roll center by changing the height of the pivot points.
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Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
Best advice is to go along to your local track and see what other guys are using. Especially if you are new to the wonderful world of 12th racing. There are LOADS of capable chassis's out there but all of them need to be setup well to get the best from them. Have a look to see if one car is the most popular at your club and maybe go with that. Life will be made easier if you do that because you can discuss setup alternations with your racing buddies. If you are not the best of drivers out there, the only car I would not reccomend you go with is the Corally 12X. It's a great car, no doubt about that, but it does have a couple of weak areas which break rather easily and cost a fair bit to replace. Feel free to ask as many questions as you like mate, no prob with that! Cheers, Chris.
OK , thanks alot guys , i will see what they run and i will choose , maybe for christmas

Thanks guys
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Old 11-09-2008, 02:50 AM   #20
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didnt' want to threadjack ill start a new one
Thanks for not threadjacking
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Old 11-09-2008, 04:48 AM   #21
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Default same type of issue here

I have the same issue. I have been out of 1/12 for a while and want to get started again - but which car to use...

I have never been afraid to try a less supported car - but they will all work. I had Leisure, MRP, Delta, Delta (I really liked my delta), Yokomo and now while I can make the Yoke work, I will probably get a BMI. I have no idea what they run Locally now - they always have CRC but that BMI makes too much sense.

and Local is not all that local - still an hour and a half drive at least. I will be checking today.
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Old 11-09-2008, 04:58 AM   #22
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Go Brushless or go Brushed? Which is best for pan car?
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Old 11-09-2008, 05:55 AM   #23
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could someone tell me if the AE RC12L4 is a good car ?
Wich car will be good for starting?
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Old 11-09-2008, 01:54 PM   #24
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could someone tell me if the AE RC12L4 is a good car ?
Wich car will be good for starting?
It's a good, but older car. Are you running on carpet or pavement? Most people seem to prefer Links on carpet, and T-Bar on pavement.

The 12L4 is a T-Bar car. But really it all comes down to setup. Yesterday, I ran my 1st ever race on carpet with my 12L4. During practice my lap times were just over 10 seconds. After setup changes, each qualifier was an improvement. The club I race at, runs 5 minute qualies (grr.) and 8 minute mains. I decided to not use traction compound. As a result, the racer who was winning all the Q's with traction compound in a 5 minute race... well come the last 3 minutes of the main, the handling on his car came apart. Meanwhile, my car pulled its fastest lap on lap 55 (of 58 laps). He had built up nearly a full lap lead on me, but in that 3 minute span, I was running a second a lap faster and snagged the lead 3 laps from the end.

Our track had 5 cars.... myself with a 12L4, 2 people had 12R5s, one Diggity, and one Speedmerchant car. All 3 cars were capable of winning.

Speedo options... Tekin, Speed Passion LPF, Novak 4 Cell GTB, novak GTB (just remove the fan... not really needed in 1/12th) depending on your body choice, and LRP.

One problem with 12L4 is brushless is difficult to fit in there. I had to make some "customizations" with my IRS rear pod to get a brushless motor to fit.

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Old 11-09-2008, 03:40 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by bs6ef View Post
there is no crappy 12th car, they are all capable of winning an A final in the right hands. "12th scale is all about setup and ability and not about equipment"


BMI DB12R probably the easiest car to setup and race.....
True, all of the 1/12 cars on the market are capable cars. Where beginners can go wrong is to purchase crappy equipment to support the vehicle; batteries, electronics, tools. Cutting corners in these areas can cost more in the long run.

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Go Brushless or go Brushed? Which is best for pan car?
Personally, I'd go brushless. Not from a performance perspective, but for the ease of maintenance. It will allow you to concentrate on the vehicle and your driving. No worries of cutting commutators, breaking in brushes, or what brushes and springs to use.
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