R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-11-2009, 12:53 AM   #121
Tech Addict
 
burito's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Germany
Posts: 511
Default

Also on brushless motors it is important to oil the bearings from time to time, wrong gearing or wrong adjustments (timing or speedo) may also cause excessive heating which can result in bearing failure.

Nevertheless, in case of failure of the bearing you should call your countries LRP distributor and seek for advise from them.


@StickFingaz: the gap is normal and intended to be there, the housings should not touch eachother! The reason is that we want to clamp the stack laminates together and not the housing, so nothing to worry about.
Due to production tolerances of the laminates thickness the gap can vary by 0.3mm or so from motor to motor.
__________________
Reto Koenig
burito is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2009, 07:12 AM   #122
Tech Elite
 
jonest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Johor, Malaysia
Posts: 3,136
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by burito View Post
Also on brushless motors it is important to oil the bearings from time to time, wrong gearing or wrong adjustments (timing or speedo) may also cause excessive heating which can result in bearing failure.
Reto,

How do we access / oil the bearing on the sensor side?

Thanks.
jonest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2009, 03:38 PM   #123
Tech Master
 
Verndog's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: PPDBillet.com USA
Posts: 1,845
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by burito View Post
Also on brushless motors it is important to oil the bearings from time to time, wrong gearing or wrong adjustments (timing or speedo) may also cause excessive heating which can result in bearing failure.

Nevertheless, in case of failure of the bearing you should call your countries LRP distributor and seek for advise from them.
I understand your initial responce of attempting to put the blame on the user to oil bearings and not overheat because thats part of your job...BUT, motor was never over 165 degs. motor timing was at stock settings, TCspec at profile2 (low power), geared 9.1 to 1 on a 5.5T, and less then 1hr. on the motor. The other motor that blew had 30-40 mins. on it!

This is plain and simple a case of poor quality / failed bearings, or possibly the rotor came apart and took the bearings with it, not user error. I will report back what LRP's decision is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jonest View Post
A friend of mine told me to lubricate the bearing after every run!!!
With all due respect, your friend better start looking for a few cards. Nobody in their right mind will waste that kind of time on a motor.
__________________
--->Dial-a-Grip for TC6
Kevin -- PPDBillet---TC6---Exoray 008
---Team Hoarders---

Last edited by Verndog; 08-11-2009 at 08:45 PM.
Verndog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2009, 10:26 PM   #124
Suspended
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: East Bay, CA
Posts: 703
Trader Rating: 17 (90%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by burito View Post
Also on brushless motors it is important to oil the bearings from time to time, wrong gearing or wrong adjustments (timing or speedo) may also cause excessive heating which can result in bearing failure.

Nevertheless, in case of failure of the bearing you should call your countries LRP distributor and seek for advise from them.


@StickFingaz: the gap is normal and intended to be there, the housings should not touch eachother! The reason is that we want to clamp the stack laminates together and not the housing, so nothing to worry about.
Due to production tolerances of the laminates thickness the gap can vary by 0.3mm or so from motor to motor.
Thanks for the response
StickyFingaz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2009, 12:13 AM   #125
Tech Addict
 
burito's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Germany
Posts: 511
Default

@Verndog: you're correct, there is obviously the chance (likely in your case!) that the bearing simply failed and there was no user error. This is why I recommended to speak to LRP agent in your country for servicing and I'm sure they'll take good care about it.
__________________
Reto Koenig
burito is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2009, 10:25 AM   #126
Tech Elite
 
dameetz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: The Sky
Posts: 2,542
Default x12 4t

I just bought an SXX TC Spec with X12 4t motor. On the included manual it says the factory recommendation for motor timing insert is 2dots which is X(Std). However my motor came with 4dots timing insert plugged in, and when I downloaded the on line manual it also says the 4dots X-10 is the factory recommendation setting. I m confuse now. Which timing insert should I use for start up?

BTW i m using this in a TC car with 7.4V Lipo, what SXX setting and FDR you can recommend for outdoor med-large track using foam tyres (not trued 64mm) and I m operating in a hot and humid tropical environtment (35deg C).
__________________
Dudududududuuuuuu.....
dameetz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2009, 10:26 AM   #127
mok
Tech Master
 
mok's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 1,075
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to mok Send a message via Skype™ to mok
Default

my recent experience tells me the endbell bearing collapsed taking the rotor with it.. possibly because it became unbalanced causing the rotor to slide along the shaft

it seems like the motor is fine so i've purchased another rotor and bearing..
just cant get the bearing remains out

any ideas?
__________________
XRAY T3'2011 / TEKIN RS PRO / LRP X12 / HYPERION SWIFT G3 RACE PACKS / FUTABA S9551 / SPEKTRUM DX3R
www.epracer.com - www.precc.org.au - www.westcoastmodelrallyclub.asn.au - www.onroadrccarclubbunbury.org.au
mok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2009, 11:28 AM   #128
Tech Apprentice
 
Damon's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Florence, Italy
Posts: 88
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dameetz View Post
I just bought an SXX TC Spec with X12 4t motor. On the included manual it says the factory recommendation for motor timing insert is 2dots which is X(Std). However my motor came with 4dots timing insert plugged in, and when I downloaded the on line manual it also says the 4dots X-10 is the factory recommendation setting. I m confuse now. Which timing insert should I use for start up?
probably the included manual is a copy of the first batch, while motor is already of the second batch...

follow the instructions of the downloaded manual, also for gearing, there are new gear ratios for motors with 4dots insert
Damon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2009, 04:42 AM   #129
Tech Addict
 
burito's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Germany
Posts: 511
Default

@dameetz: 4.0t with LiPo is VERY fast and not the wind I'd recommend to use with LiPo's... common winds for LiPo use in a touring car is 4.5 to 5.5, 5.0t seems like the best compromise and is what I'd recommend.
Otherwise is what Damon wrote (about timing/gearing) correct.

@mok: you can get the bearing out with a flat screwdriver from behind (where usually the sensor unit is, you need to remove that) and a few gentle taps to the screwdriver. It's not difficult, just do the taps all around the bearing (so it goes out straight).
__________________
Reto Koenig
burito is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2009, 06:57 AM   #130
Tech Apprentice
 
Damon's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Florence, Italy
Posts: 88
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by burito View Post
4.0t with LiPo is VERY fast
of course, but in some track it can be useful

for example sometimes I use 4.0t+lipo on this track:
Attached Thumbnails
LRP Vector x12 Brushless Motors-iolo.jpg  
Damon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2009, 09:47 AM   #131
Tech Elite
 
dameetz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: The Sky
Posts: 2,542
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by burito View Post
@dameetz: 4.0t with LiPo is VERY fast and not the wind I'd recommend to use with LiPo's... common winds for LiPo use in a touring car is 4.5 to 5.5, 5.0t seems like the best compromise and is what I'd recommend.
Otherwise is what Damon wrote (about timing/gearing) correct.
I dont mind if its too fast Some of my friends are using 3.5T with 7.4V Lipo too. Honestly I nearly bought X12 3.0T with the SXX. Now my next q, will the X12 4.0T harm the SXX for that matter? I still have the option of changing the motor back to my LHS for a 4.5t or 5.0t as you recommend, coz I haven't use it yet. If the SXX can handle the 4.0t with 7.4V Lipo with no problem then I stick to it.
__________________
Dudududududuuuuuu.....
dameetz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2009, 01:19 PM   #132
Tech Elite
 
jonest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Johor, Malaysia
Posts: 3,136
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dameetz View Post
I dont mind if its too fast Some of my friends are using 3.5T with 7.4V Lipo too. Honestly I nearly bought X12 3.0T with the SXX. Now my next q, will the X12 4.0T harm the SXX for that matter? I still have the option of changing the motor back to my LHS for a 4.5t or 5.0t as you recommend, coz I haven't use it yet. If the SXX can handle the 4.0t with 7.4V Lipo with no problem then I stick to it.
Wouldn't the combo of 4.5t+Lipo = Lipo swell? that's a lot of raw power demand coming from the motor!!!
jonest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2009, 01:22 PM   #133
Tech Elite
 
jonest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Johor, Malaysia
Posts: 3,136
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Reto,

Finally I managed to get a decent speed from my 6.5t X12 + SXX (profile: 2,6,2,2) at the local track (long straight: 140ft +-) with an FDR at 7.2 but the motor temp is around 92deg celcius, is this ok? Should I drop the FDR to 7.3?

Thanks.
jonest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2009, 06:31 PM   #134
Tech Elite
 
Yokomo_Ant3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,405
Trader Rating: 29 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dameetz View Post
I dont mind if its too fast Some of my friends are using 3.5T with 7.4V Lipo too. Honestly I nearly bought X12 3.0T with the SXX. Now my next q, will the X12 4.0T harm the SXX for that matter? I still have the option of changing the motor back to my LHS for a 4.5t or 5.0t as you recommend, coz I haven't use it yet. If the SXX can handle the 4.0t with 7.4V Lipo with no problem then I stick to it.
4.0 and lipo is no worries. I use it on the sxx, and it is fine. Everyone in Aus that races Mod are using 4.0, and 4.5 turn motors with lipo. As for FDR, go for around 9.0. I run 8.4 on my 4.5 turn x12, and 8.8 on the sp 4.0, so 9.0 should be in the ball park. Just watch the motor temps as these motors get very hot. Also with the speedie setting i would run 1,2-3,0,0. This is what i use and its good. You can turnthe punch up a bit more if you want, depending on traction, and if you likke drag brake etc, muck around with that.

Hope that helps

Antoni
__________________
Antoni Caretti

Team Yokomo - Racing Performer - Sweep Racing
Yokomo_Ant3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2009, 08:58 PM   #135
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 459
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Verndog View Post
I understand your initial responce of attempting to put the blame on the user to oil bearings and not overheat because thats part of your job...BUT, motor was never over 165 degs. motor timing was at stock settings, TCspec at profile2 (low power), geared 9.1 to 1 on a 5.5T, and less then 1hr. on the motor. The other motor that blew had 30-40 mins. on it!

This is plain and simple a case of poor quality / failed bearings, or possibly the rotor came apart and took the bearings with it, not user error. I will report back what LRP's decision is.



With all due respect, your friend better start looking for a few cards. Nobody in their right mind will waste that kind of time on a motor.

LRP X12 is known to fail quicker than other motors, especially the early batches. The 2 things that fail the most often are the bearing and the magnet. When you try to speak to anyone at LRP about the problem, the first thing they would do is to blame you .... wrong gear ratio, overheating etc. This is just their way of doing business. The upside is this motor is pretty quick.
billythekid is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
‘FWR Racing Season’ FWR Northwest Racers 11302 08-23-2015 07:38 PM
LRP VECTOR 8 1/8 SCALE SYSTEM B.A. Racer Electric Off-Road 25 09-27-2010 10:12 PM
Hacker Brushless Motors 4.5, 6.5, 7.5, 17.5, 10.5, Tekin 10.5 hemi4me R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 15 06-22-2009 08:43 PM
Futaba Servos (BLS451, S9351, S9451) and Hacker, Novak and Tekin Motors hemi4me R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 10 06-13-2009 05:49 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:30 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net