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Old 01-14-2013, 04:44 AM   #676
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You do not have a problem with the rotor- the solder on one of your phases has burnt and the contact is lost. When you open your motor a small amount of solder will fall out. I have had the exact same issue. You can fix it by soldering the phase with silver (thats what they use originally) or use ordinary soldes as a solution for the moment but it will melt again due to heat with full boosted racing. I am having difficulties with terminology, if you dont understand dont hesitate to ask anything
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:38 AM   #677
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You do not have a problem with the rotor- the solder on one of your phases has burnt and the contact is lost. When you open your motor a small amount of solder will fall out. I have had the exact same issue. You can fix it by soldering the phase with silver (thats what they use originally) or use ordinary soldes as a solution for the moment but it will melt again due to heat with full boosted racing. I am having difficulties with terminology, if you dont understand dont hesitate to ask anything
Thank you very much for your reply, I have dissasembled the motor and now are checking the stator, but I dont know whats the exactly part I must repair, can you help me?


Thanks.
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:34 AM   #678
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Ok, when you turn the motor horizontally you will see the three phases on top (on the back of the motor, the side where the sensor board is). They have solder on them; one of them doesnt have any or at least less than others. This is a major part which is gone wrong, I dont know the replacement part number but it is the basis of motor so there isnt much point in replacing it. I believe that you can fix it by putting new solder on the phase (silver solder)- I havent tried this yet due to lack of time and the fact that I have 2 replacement motors. But I will definitely try this, as in my opinion this will fix the problem
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Old 01-14-2013, 12:30 PM   #679
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The pink dot's on the back side of the motor(see pic)
If one of them is loose then resolder it but i doubt that this solves the problem as if this is loose your motor won't run proper

regards Roy






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Thank you very much for your reply, I have dissasembled the motor and now are checking the stator, but I dont know whats the exactly part I must repair, can you help me?


Thanks.
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:18 PM   #680
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The three solderings appears to be in good condition like the rest of parts, so I think it's time to get a new motor...

Thank you so much for your help and effort.

Best regards.
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Old 01-26-2013, 07:32 PM   #681
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Has anyone run an Lrp x12 17.5 in blinky and had it not be a turd? I put a brand new one in my sedan today geared at 3.8 with one less than max timing and it had no punch and wasn't very fast on the straight(172 on motor after 5 minutes) I geared down to a 3.96 and gained some punch but it was still slow.(temped at 180 after 5 minutes) is this motor just slow or what am I doing wrong? My d3.5 maxzilla on the same layout is money with max timing and a 3.7 fdr.
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Old 01-28-2013, 12:25 AM   #682
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Has anyone run an Lrp x12 17.5 in blinky and had it not be a turd? I put a brand new one in my sedan today geared at 3.8 with one less than max timing and it had no punch and wasn't very fast on the straight(172 on motor after 5 minutes) I geared down to a 3.96 and gained some punch but it was still slow.(temped at 180 after 5 minutes) is this motor just slow or what am I doing wrong? My d3.5 maxzilla on the same layout is money with max timing and a 3.7 fdr.
I think the x12 may not be the best motor for blinky (it's a beast in boosted though), but shouldn't be a total dog. When I briefly ran it in 10.5 I used 3dot timing and 5.2 fdr, so on 17.5 I'd think you're undergeared, unless it's a small track. Try 3.5 and gear up from there.
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:49 AM   #683
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why would the 7.5t x12 in my dex410 get hotter w/less boost? under geared or over geared? There was plenty of time between heats w/18 races,1st 7min geared 23/87 w/30* boost came off at 179*,2nd 7min left gearing and removed 15* of boost went up to 189* and the main I put it in blinky and it went up to 200*. I thought more boost more heat?
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Old 02-22-2013, 03:41 AM   #684
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hi all, I have a new LRP X20 4.5T motor, standard rotor, stock insert, and i am searching for info, if available, about the torque/power curve (i couldn't find any dyno graph, not even data about maximum torque/power at which RPM, etc....)... does someone know if there are info available ? also, in setting the correct boost/turbo, i'd like info on torque/power measured at different timings, so that i can see at which RPM it is convenient to add boost in order not to lose power at low RPMs... thx,

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Old 02-22-2013, 07:34 AM   #685
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I have the x12 in a 4.5 turn what fdr should i start with on an 80x40 carpet track running a tekin pro in blinky mode car is a tc6.
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:36 AM   #686
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I just dont want to fry the motor first time out.
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Old 02-22-2013, 12:43 PM   #687
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I have the x12 in a 4.5 turn what fdr should i start with on an 80x40 carpet track running a tekin pro in blinky mode car is a tc6.
I think 9.0:1 should be safe to start with.
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Old 02-22-2013, 03:20 PM   #688
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9:1 is probably too high for good feel, an undergeared mod loses the linear pull-like-a-train feel you expect and is hard on your ESC (more RPM, faster switching speed, more FET heat). Really if you leave the 4-dot or 3-dot insert in the motor you can gear up to get some of the punch out of the bottom end. I would try it and maybe move up to at 8:1 or even a bit higher, unless you want to run boost (lots of fun with a 4.5!!) in that case your gearing doesn't matter. Either way, you don't need to worry about smoking a brushless mod unless you gear/time it WAY up like a spec motor. You may not even need a fan to stay cool, except on the ESC.
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:24 PM   #689
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9:1 is probably too high for good feel, an undergeared mod loses the linear pull-like-a-train feel you expect and is hard on your ESC (more RPM, faster switching speed, more FET heat). Really if you leave the 4-dot or 3-dot insert in the motor you can gear up to get some of the punch out of the bottom end. I would try it and maybe move up to at 8:1 or even a bit higher, unless you want to run boost (lots of fun with a 4.5!!) in that case your gearing doesn't matter. Either way, you don't need to worry about smoking a brushless mod unless you gear/time it WAY up like a spec motor. You may not even need a fan to stay cool, except on the ESC.
On a track that small I wouldn't even run 8:1 on a 5.0t.
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Old 02-22-2013, 11:21 PM   #690
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On a track that small I wouldn't even run 8:1 on a 5.0t.
Why that low? More punch?
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