LRP Vector x12 Brushless Motors

You're on Page 45 of 47
Go to
  • Quote: Whats the size of the shims and oring that are in the motor?
    Anyone?
  • i have another motor if i remember ill check measure and repost tomorrow
  • Quote: i have another motor if i remember ill check measure and repost tomorrow
    I also have a spare motor but it's missing the shim, so I'd like to put one in to make it ready
  • I decided to clean my X12 17.5 motor for the first time. According to the instructions there should be an o-ring and a shim. When I took it apart (extremely carefully) I found no o-ring on the rotor. There was a white plastic shim. What size o-ring should be there? Is it required? I bought the motor new and it should have been the first time ever opened.
  • Quote: I decided to clean my X12 17.5 motor for the first time. According to the instructions there should be an o-ring and a shim. When I took it apart (extremely carefully) I found no o-ring on the rotor. There was a white plastic shim. What size o-ring should be there? Is it required? I bought the motor new and it should have been the first time ever opened.
    Can you please measure the shim? I also don't remember a o-ring when I was working on my motors...
  • I did find a post a few pages back that says theres no o-ring in stock spec motors only the modifieds. So I should be good to go, but I will measure it and check anyway.
  • Quote: 4 dot is -10 degrees
    3 dot is -5 degrees
    2 dot is 0 neutral
    Quote: Then flip 'em around to get +5 and +10
    Quote: I found this information in a 12th scale thread:

    4-dot = 27.5°
    3-dot = 32.5°
    2-dot = 37.5°
    1-dot = 42.5°
    0-dot = 47.5°
    You read the timing with the dots facing you.
    Reto Koenig
    LRP electronic GmbH / Germany
    Are the above posts saying the same thing? I guess I dont quite get this timing system can someone explain it?
  • That last post of buckaroo sound familiar to me.
    Why do you think the X12 motors run so hot?
    Even with the 4 dot insert you still have 27.5 degrees of timing in the motor.
    This with the options you have in the ESC now a days you can run the X12 thermall very quickly.
    I smoked on with a Hobbywing ESC with the same setting i use on my Tekin ESC.
    FDR was the same as was rollout.
    Still the motor went thermal and was waisted.
    Not all ESC's use the same sort of programming so be carefull what you do.

    regards Roy


    Quote: Are the above posts saying the same thing? I guess I dont quite get this timing system can someone explain it?
  • The X12 has another design than "all other" motors out there. It transfers heat very fast, but it can't lose the heat. Just keep it under 85degrees celcius and you are good to go. And yes, the X12 can run really hot before it blows, but it fades when the temperature goes past 90 degrees celcius (like every motor). So keep it under 85! Easy peasy.

    If you run the X12 with boost, just use the 4 dot insert.

    Buckaroo is right btw. The 4 dot insert is -20 degrees, not -10.
  • What timing insert/ fdr is everyone running in blinky 17.5 and what is your track size?
  • Rubber O rings not necessary. It's meant for high rpm boosted applications to reduce vibrations. Just shim it to remove freeplay and center the rotor and stator.

    My X12 13.5 runs at 110 degrees C at the end of 5 mins boosted and its almost a year racing with it now and still going strong. I'm not saying yours will be the same but thats what I heard and then tried.
  • Hi, I have a 13.5T with a HW Xerun v2.1 120A ESC and it stopped working properly:

    The motor works well sensorless, but when I connect the sensors wire, if the motor stops in a concrete position (always the same) it doesn´t start running again, however if I rotate it a bit by hand, continues working properly until stops again at the same position.

    At first I thought it might be caused by the sensor board, so I have replaced it with new one, but the problem persists. Also measured the impedance between the motor terminals and they are correct.

    I have tried too another motor with the ESC and it worked, and the LRP with another ESC, with the same problem.

    I have no more ideas, so... anyone know what could be the cause?

    Thanks.

    Best regards.
  • Sounds like a rotor problem giving the sensor signal.
    As with the sensor board that recieves the sensor signal, the rotor needs to send it out.
    If as you say the motor has problems every time that it stops at one and the same point and it gives problems after this, then look for the rotor signal.

    Regards Roy

    Quote: Hi, I have a 13.5T with a HW Xerun v2.1 120A ESC and it stopped working properly:

    The motor works well sensorless, but when I connect the sensors wire, if the motor stops in a concrete position (always the same) it doesn´t start running again, however if I rotate it a bit by hand, continues working properly until stops again at the same position.

    At first I thought it might be caused by the sensor board, so I have replaced it with new one, but the problem persists. Also measured the impedance between the motor terminals and they are correct.

    I have tried too another motor with the ESC and it worked, and the LRP with another ESC, with the same problem.

    I have no more ideas, so... anyone know what could be the cause?

    Thanks.

    Best regards.
  • Quote: Sounds like a rotor problem giving the sensor signal.
    As with the sensor board that recieves the sensor signal, the rotor needs to send it out.
    If as you say the motor has problems every time that it stops at one and the same point and it gives problems after this, then look for the rotor signal.

    Regards Roy
    Thanks for your reply, so is there any comprobation I can do to ensure that the rotor is causing the problem?

    Should I buy a new rotor?

    Thanks.
  • Don't know for sure if the Hobbywing ESC let's you know if the sensors work by showing flashing leds?
    If so you need to see 3 blinks on 1 turn of the motor.
    If you don't see that(say 2) you know 1 of the pulses is off and that explain's the problems.
    Also check your sensor wires.

    regards Roy

    Quote: Thanks for your reply, so is there any comprobation I can do to ensure that the rotor is causing the problem?

    Should I buy a new rotor?

    Thanks.

Similar Threads